Turbo BS Thread

@Blackdawg, I'm like 80% sure you could start with the DIYPNP deal though and transfer the tune to one of the fancier MS boxes later on

 

that's fair. Makes sense.

Shame its 1500 more not 3-500 more haha

 

The goldbox is 800

 

thats likely. Should check that.

They give you a base map, but only as a starting point.

 

ah thought you meant the Haltech.

 

@boostedka had the MS3. I am pretty sure he went through some good details in his build.

 

will check it out! Reading this manual on the Gold one. Seems to be a pretty good deal really.

 

The PCV plug in the picture is on the intake manifold, not the engine. The picture is a boxer engine, so that's the PCV port that they're using as the drain back to the engine. All the AOS systems I've looked at for a WRX replace the PCV valve with a straight through fitting.

 

I’m confused haha. This whole setup doesn’t even make sense to me- if there’s crank pressure then I would think the input would be from the crank and the drain would be to cover, but it’s vice-versa. I have parts on order, I’ll know more next week.

 

Looking at that image again, the flow arrows on the crank line shows flow in both directions

 

Well bought a $10 can of maf cleaner and decided I would see if that could be causing my cels... Maf had oil dripping off of it so I cleared the codes and pulled up the fuel table to adjust some stuff. Truck feel quite a bit peppier haha amazing what having a clean sensor will do. Hopefully it fixes those other random cels too

 

And where did the oil come from????????????

 

PCV. Someone needs a catch can.

Or turbo seals are leaking.

 

seals were leaking when I first rigged everything up because my oil return was too small... So its only been like this for a couple years...

 

To clarify the leak was fixed in due haste it has just been dirty since that day and I hope is my main issue for reoccurring tune headaches

 

Anyone using a catch can below $100 that doesn't let oil out the outlet?

 

Get a cheap one and pack it with stainless steal wool if you want cheap. If you can gain the access, use a thin sheet of metal to separate the in and out port to keep the air flow from going in and then directly out of the catch can. Let me dust off my MS Paint skills here.



Get this one and you can even wrap the thin metal sheet around the 'baffle' and secure it with a hose clamp (what I'm planning on doing - I have a similar catch can).

ZFBB Universal Oil Catch Can Kit Baffled Reservoir Tank Aluminum Black 300ml with Hose Kit

https://www.amazon.com/ESPEEDER-Uni...BBSEHN0J85QC706JVYWF&qid=1560343493&s=gateway

Just make sure its perforated and the holes go up the entire way to allow continued flow as it fills up.

 

So reading the "CCV Bible", the PCV closes during boost and crank pressure are expelled out the air inlet filter on top of the cover- this is where the oil is coming from.

 

Yeah, this PCV thing is hard. I think the best answer is to use the exhaust vacuum.

Right now I have the rear vent with a one way valve for "in" only and I'm running my PCV to the catch can then to pre-turbo but I'm modding that catch can (as illustrated above) to really clean the air so it doesn't deposit a bunch of grime and crap on the turbo blades.

The issue with having the PCV close and air expel out the rear vent, besides making a mess, is that positive crank pressure will affect your oil drain. I'm pretty sure this is what was causing my turbo to leak so much oil; that and being cheap.

 

I have always run my PCV in the stock format. Just leave the rear vent cover open to atmosphere. I just cut the hose and let it vent. Never made a mess and never an issue. No catch can required. YMMV