2017 OR A/C problem

Sometimes bitching fixes EVERYTHING. Staying silent lets them know they can walk all over you

 

Today picked it up again. Heat issue was caused by damper not being aligned during dash re-install. I started to like service rep and manager, was thinking to invite them over for few beers.

 

Did you do the AC TSB for the evaporator fan? You will have to search for it on the TSB thread, but it had to do with installation of an electric blower ul front to cool down the AC evaporator when it is hot outside to make it cool more. I elected to DIY it as the Toyota TSB involved too much electric work behind the dash for my comfort level.

 

Dealer replaced blower fan last year at one of my visits. I had AC leak since last year. Finally they were able to identify where it was leaking. They had to replace leaking evap core and that is where they broke heating portion. It took few visits to fix it.

 

It’s a separate TSP than the inside cabin blower fan. They actually put an electric fan in front of the radiator where the evaporator is, and running wiring back to the controller behind the glove compartment. It’s due to the air conditioner not being very efficient when it’s hot outside and you are driving slow or idling with low rpm’s.

 

Mine went out. Took it in and they said it was the condenser. Quoted me 1500 ‍♂️

 

But they also said if changing the condenser doesn’t work then the evaporator needs to be replaced. I don’t know Sounds like they’re guessing. As no visible leak was seen.

 

I'm sure any dealer can slap a temp on a vehicle and send someone on their way. A new vehicle shouldn't have miles on it and can hurt the sale value of the car. I won't buy a new car if it has more then 10 miles on it. Also insurance for the vehicles I am sure is for around the dealership, not for someone to play with for the weekend.

 

Make sure you have all these trips documented. Could be a Lemon. My 02 Camaro z28 was originally a manufacturer buyback cause of AC issues. Worked fine for me after I got it.

 

They are guessing. If it's the condenser they should be able to see the leak. Die can be added to the AC system and the leak can be found using a black light. Have them add die to find the leak. If they say something like "we dont use die" bring it to a trust AC repair shop.

 

Everything is documented and all service reports are saved.

 

That is how they detected after 3rd recharge.

 

My 2016 is now having the same AC problem, scheduled for a dealer inspection in 2 weeks from now due to how busy they are. Good thing I live in Canada, spring weather does not call for much use of AC.

 

It's finally hitting the bottom-end of the top-end of temperatures here in Phoenix. Noticed today while out running errands that the AC could absolutely not keep up with cabin cooling. Air coming out of the vents, on Recirc, was moderately cool, worse than I experienced before. At time of travel, ambient temp was about 109F. With the current issues I'm facing with a "clacking/knocking" AC compressor, I decided to nose around under the hood. I'm quite familiar with R-12, R-22 (residential old school), and R-134a systems. I'm not an HVAC guy, but I do know enough to check pressures and do high-level diagnoses. An AC cooling system not blowing cold air is indicative of a problem, and it's usually low refrigerant.

Started up the truck, took a temp-check in the garage (105F), and proceeded to hook up the gauges. After taking off the cap of the low-pressure pipe, I immediately was presented with the frothy mess in the picture! Not only does that mean there is a lot of seepage through the Schrader valve, I have never seen something like that. I couldn't get my R-134a quick-connect to work, so I peeped up to the hood: R-1234yf? WTF is that? When did that happen? [Steps out and looks online. Watches a couple videos. Ah, I see...] So with respect to what I suspect is yet another tweak to cooling systems that undoubtedly make it worse and/or less efficient, is the frothy mess normal?* [See side rant.] But it all seriousness, if that crap is flowing through the AC system, then how can the orifice work properly? It just appeared to be a thick stew of oil, leak-seal, and dye!

* Side Rant: We all know that R-12 was the best! But alas, the ozone! OK, no problem, I do appreciate the EPA and the environment. R-134a...not as good, less cooling, but still pretty good. Now R-1234yf? Seems terrible.

If anyone know for sure, or wishes to check their own 3rd gen, then let me know. If so, then to me, this is looking like an immediate trip to the dealer for inspection.

Please report back.

 

You definitely have a leak but your not seeing dye. Toyota doesnt use die in their systems. Blow out the port and mix up a little dish soap with water. Spyay in the port and see if there arecany bubbles.

 

Mine sometimes wont work. I think its electrical I have a whole 800 miles on the truck.

Dash quit working too

 

Are u sure this isn't from trying to fit a 134 adapter on a 1234yf Schrader? Fwiw my Chevy Schrader had that same issue. I reached in and pulled up on the valve and it temporary got me by till I fixed it for real.

 

I will do that. I'm hoping it was just residual oil from when they filled it at the assembly line, because after seeing that I immediately suspected that the entire system is super-saturated with oil.

Here's the thing: I haven't really come across any vehicle that doesn't emit some amount of pressure, i.e. slight, quick "hiss," upon unscrewing the valve caps on either the high-pressure or low-pressure ports. I just chalked it up to it's just the way it is. After all, the caps do indeed have good seals, and the slight leak is contained in the capped valve. However, I have never experienced a bubbling and frothing mess like that before. Very strange.

Nope. That mess came out of the port immediately after unscrewing the cap. Also, apparently the low-pressure port of an R-1234yf system is bigger than on R-134a systems. So the adapter just bumped the top and did not clip over. Therefore, I suspect by the year 2100, the R-123456789wtf system will have a LP port the diameter of a toilet bowl!

 

The day my system fails, i will be switching it out to r134a(breaking some law here), unless 1234yf becomes more easily accesible and cheaper in the future.

There are many stories of people switching back due to astronomical prices or specialized equipment.

If you go the extra mile and replace the expeansion valve with an r134 model (need to see if one crosses over) i bet it will cool better than ever. Charge weight wont be right anymore, so you will need to figure out subcool, superheat and pressure for a bit for proper charge.

One of my hobbies is getting old r-12 80s a/c system running well again. Most of the time its down to the condensor design and txv/orifice to make it throw ice cubes again with r134a.

 

My 18 ac unit is the worst ac out of any rig I've ever had. Dealer wants to charge $150 Diagnostics fee on a rig that's still under the Toyota factory warranty.
The weather has been in the 90s here and I've had to start driving my old second gen just so I can have a rig with decent AC.