Champion Radiator Aluminum 3 core swap

X2

 

no expert here but water and electrical, in this environment, wouldn't last long.
I was in the passenger seat filming...

 

Agree... as well as clutch type fans and their assemblies tend to be built considerably stronger than the electrical alternatives.

Electric fans have their place... but my opinion is that place is not in my truck.

 

The shroud does contribute to increasing efficiency, yes, but by far the most important aspect is how many CFM of air the fan pumps. This relates directly to the ability of the system to cool.

 

They will work a hell of a lot longer than a mechanical fan hitting the water and being sucked into the radiator.

If you are building something you plan on using as a submarine, electric fans can be a good way to go. But you will need to spend a lot more money and time getting the system to work properly than you will with a mechanical fan.

Or, just, you know- stay out of deep water, and use a mechanical fan.

 

Not in a perf built motor running a 4500 stall converter on a 110° ambient air temp day here . A electric fan set up will pull alot more air thru the radiator . Also running a electric water pump helps also as you can keep the pump on with the engine off

 

well, when the engine is off, cooling isn't such a big deal, is it? Also, "convection flow" is a thing.

 

Probably why it's key to not stop moving when you're up to the radiator in water...keep pushing forward to keep the water moving around the sides of the truck, once you stop or get stuck you're in trouble.

 

Correct. The bow wake has a bit of a depression (this is an important point in ship hull design, and why they often have the bulb at the bottom front of the vessel). and if you work it right, it will keep the water level away from the fan. But if you hit a rock, a deep hole, or some such, you are in for trouble.

This is where electrics come into play. Being able to pull a fuse or flip a kill switch for the crossing removes that problem entirely. Of course you wouldn't want to do this long, but then if you're running that deep, you're going to get some cooling from the water, anyway.

I don't get much opportunity to go out in the woods anymore (something I am working on changing), but I wouldn't want to be doing deep crossings, anyway. I'm there to enjoy the country, not ruin it- and putting oil and the like in the water is not helping.

-shrug- one guy's opinion. Noone is "telling the guy he can't run electric". But I have given this subject MUCH thought and practical experimentation for numerous reasons and builds. My present build (the S10 SAS, not the Tacoma) runs an electric fan, but strictly for packaging reasons. I have a new radiator to install in it and am going to try and push it about another inch forward... so I can run a factory clutch fan.

 

Hey, it's the internet - folks like for every situation to have a "right" answer.

 

All too true, unfortunately. There seldom is one right answer to this sort of an engineering question.

Now, if they made a mechanical clutch with an electric disconnect, that would be the best of both worlds. In fact, now I've said it, I am almost certain I have seen this in a Pinzgauer or some such....

 

What electric fan is that?

 

It's a 3.8 (I think) v8 older ford Taurus fan. The swap is very popular for 22re guys so I just bought one brand new for around $80. Has two speeds, can hardly get the truck to operating temp if I leave it on high speed. Great fan for the setup

 

Another good electric fan is the 97 Dodge Intrepid fan.

 

Well, today I was cleaning the AC condenser and noticed some radiator fluid weeping at the very bottom
were the tank meets the vertical tubes of the radiator.

Not good news, I called champion radiator and they said they would replace it for free under warranty.

But I think I’m just going to have a custom one made that is made of much better quality that is 3” thick.

Extruded Cooling Tubes (ECT) radiator is what I will have it made with and it will be the same thickness
as the champion radiator but it will be the full length and not the short version that champion makes.
And of course much better quality.

Even though it’s hnder warranty I don’t want to be worried about a replacement radiator failure on me again.

Will see what it look likes in 4 weeks or so as they have to copy my old tanks dimensions .

Kinda disappointed because I loved this radiator, but the quality control is not there unfortunately

 

If you want to donate the replacement one they send you I'd be happy to cover shipping to send it my way

 

why not a short version?

 

Not good news!

I tested mine in Death Valley in April/May and the temps were high enough to trip the A/T fluid warning light in the most inconvenient location in Saline Valley.
If this one fails, someone mentioned a different shop that I will be entertaining for hard earned $$$.

Not sure why customers like us are tolerating the sub-par quality control from Champion.
Any other industry, these guys would be out of business...

 

Look at aluminum radiators from mfgs such as .....


C&R

Misimoto


Be Cool

 

Because at idle on a hot day the temp creep up, highways temps stay lower than stock radiator at 186-188 degrees

The Champion radiator keeps my temperature 5 degrees less easily.

But at idle they go up unless you rev the motor,