Plug N play harness to relocate USB port.

Not to my knowledge. As far as I’m aware you can only input video to the head unit

 

I meant it can be used to display video being sent to it?

 

In line with the indicating LED?
.....I was considering a more ghetto fab fix, sharpie or some window tint film!

 

That works too.

 

I've always hated that shade of blue.
Most electronics went away from it because it was so annoying....a high frequency color.

 

Resurrection… I’m having a hell of a time trying to remove the cig socket in the armrest console. I see the tab on top and feel the tab on bottom but they don’t seem to really want to push in (im guessing they push in). It doesn’t seem like it’s the same as the one in the dash per @caribe makaira pdf of the dash socket removal in another thread.

 

It was a long time ago, if I remember correctly the metal part of the socket blocks pushing the plastic part out by blocking you pushing in the tabs. So pull / push the metal inner part out first, then you can press on the tabs of the plastic part to get that out. To pull the metal part out you may need to pull some tabs down from the inside. This is memory, so may be wrong, but pulling the metal part out (or partly out) first is key.
Or, since you’ll need to ever so slightly widen the hole, (if using the parts listed in post #1) brute force will work as you don’t care if you break the socket or stretch the hole it sits in.

 

The pull and push reference and inside has me confused. I’m not sure if you mean to push/pull into the arm console or into the shifter/ebrake (backside).

Is the socket essentially supposed to be inserted m/removed from the inside of the armrest? And the metal part is seperate from the front plastic ring/cover. I’ll try to take another look and wiggle things around. I’d rather not break anything even though I’m sure I’ll have to widen the hole. Not using the parts listed in 1st but a blue seas dual usb slot 4.8 amp which does look bigger

 

The plastic surround has tabs poking into the metal (-) tube as well as tabs that stick out and hold the entire thing in the console. You have to release the tabs holding the metal in, slide the metal out, then with the metal tube out of the way you can release the tabs that hold the plastic surround in the console. Disconnect the battery or make sure the plug is dead before messing with it. Definitely easier to do if you can access it from the back.

 

I got it, thanks. I was so focused on the tabs for the plastic piece/cover to lock into the arm console before. I looked more closely at the 2 slots in inside the actual socket to finally realize those were Tabs too, essentially locking it in place with the plastic. It all made since now

I finally got it but wish your post was around when I first searched- that explanation/direction is well worded and precise!

 

Ha, tell that to my 7th grade english teacher Mr Lloyd, he'd be amazed.

 

Serious props for putting this together and another thing I gotta have since, everytime I so much as look at the usb connector, the ipod disconnects plus it'd just look so much better hidden away.

Before I order the parts just a quick question. Your link for the AXXESS

$9 AX-TOYUSB - USB-Auxilliary Retention Harness - USB adaptor to retain the OE USB in select Toyota vehicles

AX-TOYUSB is dead. There are 2 on ebay, one is AXXESS AX-TOYUSB and the other is AXXESS AX-TOYUSB2. I assume the AXXESS AX-TOYUSB is correct but want to make doubly sure. Am I correct. TIA.

 

Here is one from Metra who are a bigger company, but same cable.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120TO...MIz_-AxdWS5AIVRBh9Ch25WQVpEAAYASAAEgLIJfD_BwE

eBay one with same name from origin post looks like it’s it. Ie NOT the one ending in 2.

 

I received all of the cables for this project today, connected the cables as if it were in my truck and powered it with a high current bench power supply. I connected a USB-C cable to the harness and to my Samsung Galaxy S8+ cell phone. Settings/Device Care/Battery. When fast charging, it will say fast charging. With this harness, it does not.

Is this setup actually fast charge as the OP stated in the first post or is it only a high current harness? If it is supposed to fast charge, can someone please tell me why it doesn't. I would guess fast charging would be dependent on the 3A DC-DC converter. I wouldn't think that it would have to be connected through the Entune radio. I thought that was only for the data connection.

I guess I'm OK if it won't fast charge since I try to use the wireless charger when it doesn't overheat which is another problem altogether.

Edit: I got to looking and the power supply I connected to is only 1.8A so I connected to a 5.0A and a 14A power supply and still no fast charge. Also, I did plug into both plugs on the round dual USB but still no fast charge. I plugged in every combination possible as far as I could tell.

I anyone else getting fast charge out of this harness?

TIA.

 

Look at the date of post, (USB-C wasn’t generally available) it’s USB fast charging, not USB-C (fast) charging, that’s something completely different. USB fast charging is ~2a @ 5v compared with 0.5a @ 5v normal USB charging. USB-C charging can go up to something like 20v depending on device.

Edit, btw, just change the USB power supply to something can support the volts / amps you want for charging for a specific device.

 

I'm assuming you mean change the DC-DC converter since the power supply would technically be the truck battery? If I could find such a thing, I'd certainly buy it. I wouldn't really know what to search for. Any ideas?

Edit: Something like

$55 BiXPower USB Type C Power Converter with 5V, 9V, 12V, 15V & 20V Power Delivery (PD)

this would probably do what I want but it's a little pricey at $50.

I guess this could take the place of the DC-DC converter. I wouldn't think it would cause a problem with the ipod. It is Quick Charge 2.0 and does fast charge when connected to 12V. Although I could solder some longer wires to it, I'd rather have something made for the job.

I went ahead and connected the "charger" and it fast charges perfectly. Of course I haven't connected to the Entune radio yet. I'll keep looking for another dual output "charger" but I'll use this one if I have to.

 

Remember the iPod will connect directly to the head unit, and that can only do 0.5a (on a good day), so don’t worry about the iPod. That dc/dc converter would work, but also looks like you’ve found a solution with the cig adapter you have. You could keep the factory cig socket connected (to the truck wiring), plug that DC adapter into it and hide it under the console.

 

True but I think I'm gonna buy

$23 Quick Charge 3.0 Car Charger, CHGeek 12V/24V 36W Aluminum Waterproof Dual QC3.0 USB Fast Charger Socket Power Outlet with LED Digital Voltmeter for Marine, Boat, Motorcycle, Truck, Golf Cart and More

this and let it take the place of the OP's DC-DC converter. One of the USBs is Quick Charge 3.0 so it should fast charge the phone and, if I understand the OP, will make the OEM USB fast charge as well. I haven't thought that through though so I could be wrong. I'm just going on the OP's say so. The other USB is just a regular USB and I'll use that one to connect to the Entune radio for the ipod or a flash drive. I want this solution because I have a Blue Sea fuse panel under the dash and I want to wire the power directly to it.

 

2 questions:

1. I am having trouble keeping my ipod classic charged in the truck. It drains down to dead in a day or so. It only started doing that after I reloaded the entire ipod. (I know I could probably press the play button for a few seconds to put it to sleep but I didn't have to do that before this trouble started. That would be kind of a pain to have to do every time you get out of the truck.) It is a new ipod classic battery. Then I have wait until the ipod has enough charge to power up which seems to take about 10 minutes. My ride to work is 15 minutes. Using this posts wiring harness, if I wanted to make the USB data a hot 5V all of the time, how would I tie that into this harness. I can make the USB charging port hot just by connecting the dc/dc converter to a hot 12V source but the USB data port is isolated from the dc/dc converter and only has power when the radio is powered on as far as I can tell. Any suggestions?

2. Also, I was thinking that I'd leave the accessory plug installed and make another hole for the dual port USB beside it. Has anyone attempted this? I was wondering if there is even enough room for both plugs down there.

TIA.

 

You don’t need the harness for this. USB is 4 wires, 2 data & 2 power. Simply cut the 2 power wires that run from the factory HU to the USB port. Then wire the USB power to an external 12v to 5v adapter that’s hot all the time.
Alternatively if you don’t want to cut and solder, They actually make USB cable adapters that do exactly this, but then you will need to use parts of this harness since there is no standard USB connections in the factory wiring.

EDIT
The below along with cables A and B from the original post, and a suitable 12v to 5v USB power adapter, would do what you want with no cutting of factory wiring.

$8 HIGHROCK 30cm USB 2.0 a Power Enhancer Y 1 Female to 2 Male Data Charge Cable Extension Cord(1pc)

https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enh...ocphy=9027577&hvtargid=pla-761647499952&psc=1