What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

On both spindles on the same 2 bolts per side? Toyota did both of them like that last time, same 2 bolts on both sides of the truck

Only one bolt sheared and I honestly think it was either a faulty bolt or the fact that I had the torque wrench at an awkward angle when I torqued it. When I pulled that assembly off and reinstalled another bolt into that same hole it went in at 59ft/lbs just fine.

 

Get a pitman arm puller. Pickle forks are for Neanderthals. How much do you trust your torque wrench? I've used some that are awful and don't always click when correct torque is achieved. Even if the bolt was bottomed out it should have clicked before enough force was put on it to twist it. I used to have the rock boot and no longer do. All of my bolts are the same size and I've not needed a second washer to account for the rock boot not being there. I'd suggest threading the bolt in without the bj and measuring how much is exposed when it bottoms out. Hopefully that number is less than the thickness of the bj flange.

@Squeaky Penguin has one mounted somewhere inside mission control. Which screen it is is anybodys guess

 

Yeah when I did round 2 today I used a Pitman Puller, much much easier than that damn pickle fork was.

I'll take more pics tomorrow on the other side to show you guys what it looks like before/after. I think it'll help clarify things.

 

I wouldn't be surprised. Just cause it's a dealer doesn't mean everything their techs do is 100% "correct". If you don't believe me search online about stacking washers & bolts with washers vs flanged bolts. Not saying the bolt with washer is bad, just the using more than one part of the same type (unlike a flat washer + lock washer). Not trying to argue with you, moreso that it might not be a bad idea to look further regarding stacked washers.

Perhaps ask the rest of the guys here if they are using stacked washers too & if their trucks originally came that way.

 

I'll show you detailed pics tomorrow lol. I have a feeling a lot of this is confusion being lost in online communication. If the consensus then is still to take them off then I will

 

@zero4 @Reh5108 Ok this is a screen grab from the Low Range Offroad video for LBJ install. You can see the small washer and the larger one above it. This is exactly how it looks like on my truck, on both driver & passenger

I almost wonder if maybe this was originally just a part of the dust boot? Mine aren't attached anymore to the boot (if that's the case) and maybe that's why it looks like a 2nd washer? It's solid though and not soft rubber like the boot.

 

Pulled the power wiring harness off the truck to get a better look and to clean and repair any issues before hooking it up to the starter and alternator. I'm glad I did. I had a few problems would have come back to bite if left unaddressed.

The old plastic cable tray that runs below the crankshaft pulley had become brittle. Also, it was full of dirt and engine grime. I suspected it would bite into one of the wires and cause problems.



Picture of the old harness before I took it apart for inspection, cleaning, and to be wrapped in F4 Silicone Tape.



The old protective conduit has open gaps that let in oil and road grit.



Electrical system gremlins waiting to happen.



Took a while to get the old harness apart and cleaned up. I used Isopropyl alcohol at 90% for the cleanup.



Remnants from the harness cleanup.



Once the harness was cleaned up, I wrapped it with one layer of F4 Silicone tape. This first wrap forms an airtight, watertight, and grit proof layer over the old cables. It's like being inside a giant heat shrink.



Then I put on a new layer of flameproof automotive electrical conduit and wrapped that with F4 silicone tape.

I will use new insulated wire loom mounting brackets to mount this. Some of the old mounts will still work.



Tomorrow I will clean up and rewrap the injector and upper-level wiring harness.

 

I’m pretty happy with mine on the column.

 

Do you ever feel like it gets in the way? I have my boost and AFR Gauges on port and starboard of the column cover respectively.

 

That’s my understanding. I originally dremeled out a place for my factory blinkers in the side marker lights. Then it broke and I don’t want to do that every time. Hope will be done this week.

 

that small washer is the metal washer thing to attach the dust boot

 

Speaker! All six of them!

 

^agree

 

Not at all. I never use the speedo on the dash anymore since the UG is way more accurate, and I can see the tach just fine.

 

I don’t have an ultra gauge. Only scan gauge.

 

Right on, I knew it had to be something oem.

So it is like stacking washers then?

 

I have a ScanGauge there and I’m annoyed that it blocks me from seeing the overdrive indicator. Those of you without an automatic won’t have this problem.

 

Before and after a park called mounds here in Michigan
Oh and happy fathers day to any dads on TW

 

I wouldn't say it's like stacking washers, though that could be all it is, I see it more as a solid spacer. A washer would be more for spreading and distributing that face load. That spacer is there and doesn't spread that force, just transfers load directly. But yeah that all makes sense and sounds spot on to me man. Glad that all worked out smooth for ya.
So the pitman arm puller is the best to use you'd say? Just an Amazon cheap work? Or does it need to be decent quality so it doesn't deflect?

 

Defintely don't use a pickle fork that's for sure, unless you don't mind damaging the ball joint/boot in the process of taking it off.

The pitman puller as long as you slide the jaws underneath the boot, it pops the joint out with ease. The pickle fork you have to hammer in between the two and it slides around alot.