Has anyone installed a "T" near the heater valve for bleeding air from coolant

I remember seeing a post about someone who installed a T near the heater valve for bleeding air from the coolant system. Since this is the highest point in the system, it seemed like a good idea.

Is the T a permanent fixture or was it temporary to perform an initial bleed after some major engine work?

If someone has done this, please share a picture or details for the hardware used to make this happen.

BTW - I already have the coolant bleeding kit with the big funnel with various radiator caps to fit. My thoughts are this would be good to have should something happen to a hose while you are away from your shop and do not have the funnel kit for bleeding available.

Thank you,
Craig

 

I installed a T kit deal with a twist on/off screw cap where you are saying on my 80 series Cruiser. For bleeding it easier also for connecting a hose and being able to back flush... I think. Been a few years. It seems I remember it being pretty straight forward and I didn't have any concerns about it, at least at the time

 

Thanks for the quick response!

 

I will try and take a picture

I use flushing TEE just to the left of the heater valve

 

Here you go!!

Just because we share the same first name.

 

I can`t recall if I lost the plastic cap or it got dropped and my big feet crunched it

So I just want with fittings I had .

these engines are not near as bad for air pockets as the 22re engines

 

Thanks for the picture Craig. I bought a Prestone flush kit with a T. Looks like it hooks up to a garden hose. This is how I imagined it would work. I'll drop by Ace Hardware to find a brass cap to close it off if the thread patterns match.

 

I bought a bunch years ago they were pipe thread

Now days who knows

 

how much actual coolant goes into the 3.4?
just had mine flushed/exchanged completely and they only had 1 gallon on the parts list
thought it might take more than that?

 

How about this?

 

Looks perfect.

What’s the part number or hose size for that item?

 

Are the first gens predisposed to getting air bubbles just like the American cars do?

I have personally never had air bubble issues when feeling first gens, so Im not sure this mod is necessary, but regardless, it is nice to see people making this mod available to those who do want to be sure 100% of it.

 

It came in the Prestone Flush and Fill kit.

$11 Prestone Flush 'N Fill Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-Flush-N-Fill-Kit/dp/B002TZSUZ6/ref=asc_df_B002TZSUZ6/?hvadid=312111914138&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3610587918527535980&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025754&hvtargid=aud-643191255296%3Apla-570111840629&psc=1

https://www.ebay.com/i/152183710203?chn=ps

 

Yes they are only because the heater core hoses are a bit higher than the radiator cap.
So even if the radiator looks full, their can be air trapped in those hoses

 

Yeah that makes sense. Everytime I do a full coolant drain and fill or water pump job or just something that forces full coolant loss I will run the heater full blast as it forces circulation through the heater core and it's respective inlet/ outlet hoses.

 

Before even considering it I would ask a questions:
1. How many times a week you need to replace coolant.
2. What happens if you don't bleed the air from the core?

My answers are:
1. Probably every 5-7 years when using Toyota red.
2. Nothing. The first time you open the heater valve (set the heat on full hot) the air will be pushed out of the system via overflow tank.

Is it worth installing it and then later have another connectors to fail? Nah, I'd pass.

 

I did this on my old 88 p/u.

 

I've always just parked up hill and let the thing heatup with no issue. Never had air trapped at the heater core on this or my 80 series. The flow is really strong there when cold since the thermostat doesn't restrict it so you could just loosen the clamp a touch and squeeze the hose to let the air out until it seeps a little coolant.

 

The same type cap till I lost it or stepped on it

The older 22r series engines were much worse for air pockets why not I was changing things around

 

Did you get a brass cap or did you stay with the plastic cap?