Supporting modifications for 3.4l with gen2 S/C

Hey!
I'm new to the world of Tacomas and Toyotas, i've always been a VW enthusiast and liked my cars sitting low and going way too fast. But i've always wanted a truck so i've finally bit the bullet and got one.

1996 Toyota Tacoma with the 3.4l 5vze. She was quite tired when i bought her so i'm currently building a new 3.4 bored .030 over and strapping a gen 2 S/C on top of her. What i'm curious about is what kind of supporting modifications I should be looking at doing so that she can be reliable and also make good power.
The truck will be used mostly for traveling around the west half of the states while i live in the back and doing lots of off-roading/being able to get anywhere i'd like.

Current plans for the engine:

-Set of headers and custom exhaust going back.
-the Gen2 TRD supercharger (not sure what pully size i will be using, it currently has the stock pully)
-new clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing. (any input on what clutch would be best is greatly appreciated)

So my questions;

-What, if any, should i do with upgrading the injectors and fuel system on this truck?

-Should i upgrade my MAF to the newer style that came in these trucks in the later years?

-Should i do anything with motor mounts/tranny mounts while im replacing the engine?

-I've read alot about how 96 ECU's don't take boost well, should i plan on using a newer year ecu or how can i tackle that problem?

-What kind of piggyback (And honestly, what is the piggyback for) should i use?

-What gauges are a must for S/C setup on these engines?

-i've always leaned toward emission deleting my cars in the past (but VW's run like shit with the emission stuff).. is this beneficial for the 5vze or should i not? (I live in a place where there is NO emission testing)

Specs on truck:

1996 Taco 4X4 5spd manual
306k on the clock.
(truck is in beautiful condition for the mileage, engine was/is just very tired and needing an overhaul)

 

Welcome to TW, you've come to the right place in order to quickly get rid of all your money. If you're into VW's then I'm sure that's not anything new though lol

Check out the Performance and Tuning sub-forum for a lot of good information, they tend towards the 2nd gen Tacoma's as there a lot more of them, but there's good stuff in there for 1st gens too.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/performance-and-tuning.8/

First up, you are correct the '96 and earlier ECU doesn't work well with boost. The TRD superchargers were introduced in '97, and the ECU was reprogrammed to work with them. You'll definitely want to source a '97 or later ECU to get started (needs to come from a truck with your same transmission type as well).

The ECU's on 1st gens are not programmable, thus the need for a piggyback or standalone setup in order to tune fuel delivery and timing. If you have the time and know-how to tune the truck yourself, the best bang for your buck is an AEM FIC6 controller, paired with larger injectors (even injectors from a '01 - '04 would be an upgrade, the early years injectors were almost maxed out for delivery rate just with the N/A setup).

The 3.4L is a ping-happy motor, getting enough fuel to keep it from detonating is definitely a priority (I'd be curious to know how boring out your motor changes the compression ratio and if that affects how "pingy" it is). Careful tuning with the FIC6 can help mitigate that, some people use a methanol injection system to cool the air charge and raise the effective octane rating as well. You'll also want to run cooler spark plugs (IK22 are the common ones). You will want to monitor AFR to help with tuning and keep from running lean, definitely get an AFR gauge and install the sensor as close to the headers as possible. Most people also run a boost gauge for obvious reasons. There are a lot of options out there for gauges, I have the PLX Innovative setup for AFR and boost, and just have the bluetooth module so I can use my phone to monitor.

If you're running 6+ lbs of boost, you'll want the exhaust to be as free-flowing as possible, I have one high-flow cat for emissions checks but it's not necessary. The headers and custom exhaust will help a lot to wake up the SC.

If you haven't already, check out urdusa.com and lcengineering.com

 

You're right about that! im no stranger to quicky dumping all my money into my vehicles!
thanks for that link, i'll be sure to look it over thoroughly.

I'm working on sourcing a 97 wiring harness and ECU to make it all go smoothly. Does the 97 come with the newer style MAF or is there a more desired year to swap over too. (Might as well do it right and most efficiently while im doing it!)

Thats a bummer that they are non-reprogrammable. If i don't have the time or know-how to correctly tune fuel and such what would be my best option for a piggyback system. I will be either bringing the vehicle in to get tuned or finding someone who can help me tune it how it should. I am looking for more on the reliable side than the crazy power. I'd like to keep my boost and fuel where im not stressing anything out too badly. Especially since im bored out a little bit, i don't want that extra stress in my block. (Please correct me if this is something i shouldn't be worrying about!)

I will be using a set of the skinnier, new style injectors. Should this be sufficient?

And i wont have an EGR set-up so what would be my best option for making sure im getting enough fuel to keep the lean outs away. I've done some read-ups on URD's set up as well as just tuning it to get that all right.. What are your guys opinions on the fuel and keeping it from running lean.

Iam currently installing my new engine along with new clutch and some other goodies.. will be breaking in the engine and clutch before i put the S/C on top of it. im thinking 500-ish miles before i strap it up top.

i'm thinking i'll go with AF gauge, boost (of course) and oil pressure. should i be trying to keep and eye on my exhaust temps, intake temps, or fuel pressure at all? (im new to S/C as i've said so every bit of info is helpful. i'm sure i am and will be asking dumb/repetitive questions to make sure i do it all right.)

if i decide to rid my exhaust of the Cat what kind of resistors or bungs would i need to keep my check engine light from emissions away..?

 

Welcome to the club,

If you want a ton of power (more than 300 rear wheel) you have to go turbo.
The trd supercharger is limited because it can spin only so fast 15-16k or so with the smaller 2” pulley.

So your max rear wheel power will be 275-300hp.

The other problem is there is no inner cooler so the supercharger gets heat soaked very easily and a loss of power and timing when it gets hot with boost.

Some people like myself have used the methonal injection system and for me at 6000 feet it’s been
a perfect solution.

Didn’t have to deal with larger injectors or piggy back or fuel pump and the methonal drops the intake temps by 100 degrees and raises the octane to 100-110, so I have zero heat soaked issues.

It’s not a perfect fix because it doesn’t address the ECU, but it will deal with the ping depending on your motor.

I can run 2” pulley with 10 pounds of boost at 6000 to 13,000 feet with no issues.

Rear wheel power is around 275 now after fine tuning my setup.

Each engine and altitude will be different.

Definitely need an AFR and boost gauge to keep you numbers in check.

With this all said the supercharger is the most reliable power by far even if you max it out.

I actually have almost 600,000 on my original supercharger with rebuilts at 150,000.

 

since your manual trans megasquirt has a pnp standalone ecu available. if you are going fic6 then swapping to 97 ecu is worth it. i run one on my 95.5 turbo

 

Which are you running?
megasquirt?

 

im auto. no megasquirt for me