JL Microsub 10” question 2017 double cab

I’ve searched and searched and no answer to my question.

Would a single 10” JL Microsub fit behind the rear passenger seat of a 2017 double cab with or without the plastic storage bins? I’m not wanting to cut out the child safety loops but have no problem removing the plastic bins. I’m looking at the non powered version and will be driving it with an Alpine PDX V-9 that i will mount on the back wall behind the passenger seat drivers side.
Thanks Jeremy

 

I can tell you that the 8" JL Microsub in their ported box will fit very snugly in the passenger side rear plastic storage bin with no cutting required. The specs for that box according to JL Audio say

External Width (W) 18.625 in / 473 mm
External Height (H) 11.0 in / 279 mm
External Depth (D1) 5.125 in / 130 mm

http://www.jlaudio.com/cp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93133

Their 10" Microsub in the ported box has these specs

External Width (W) 20.875 in / 530 mm
External Height (H) 13.25 in / 337 mm
External Depth (D1) 6.375 in / 162 mm

http://www.jlaudio.com/cp110lg-tw1-2-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93323

If you are looking at the ported box linked above I am pretty confident it won't fit in the plastic storage bin - combination of being too deep and too high.

I think the sealed box they offer in 10" would be too tall.

External Width (W) 20.75 in / 527 mm
External Height (H) 14 in / 357 mm
External Depth (D1) 4.5 in / 114 mm

http://www.jlaudio.com/cs110lg-tw3-car-audio-powerwedge-subwoofer-systems-93304

I will say the 8" ported box I have from them powered by their JX500 mono amp puts out more than enough bass for me. It easily shakes the rearview mirror.

 

Note that whatever you end up putting in, removing plastic bin introduces significant road noise into the cab. My vote would be for the jl 8.

 

Thank you both for your reply. Will likely go with the JL 8” Microsub.
Jeremy

 

I expect you will be happy with it. Like I said, mine shakes the rearview mirror with no problem - however I also have upgraded the door speakers with the kicker 6x9's upfront and 6" in the rear and I am amplifying them with the Kicker Key amp. One change I plan on making is adding a bass control knob - right now for properly mixed and recorded music (ie: everything isn't cranked to the max to make it sound good through crappy iphone earbuds) the system sounds great. Pink Floyd DSOTM is perfectly balanced (cd ripped to apple lossless then converted to high bit rate mp3 played on a thumbdrive via the USB). Other music/sources the bass is too pronounced and using the headunit treble, mid and bass balance doesn't offer enough control to tame it.

 

I have the alpine rux bass knob that plugs into the alpine amp i plan to use. I’ve also put alpine 6x9’s in front doors and some old but never used Phoenix gold 6” in rear doors.

 

I too am trying to figure out whether the 10" will fit, wondering it if will with the plastics taken out

 

Something is telling me I must have a 10” over the 8”. I’ve been searching if this would fit with or without the bins.

CS110LG-TW3

http://www.jlaudio.com/cs110lg-tw3-car-audio-powerwedge-subwoofer-systems-93304

With the alpine I plan on using i want something that i can use the wattage the pdx is supplying.

 

I’m not willing to cut the LATCH anchors out

 

You will definitely need to remove the plastic bins and quite likely have to remove the plastic backing on the seats. The 10" box is definitely taller and absent removing those things I don't think you will be able to get your seat to lock in place. See this photo of the 8" ported box and it's height relative to the child anchors.

 

Looks like your 8" box fits in there really well, is this a 8w3v3 you've got in there?

 

It's this box/sub http://www.jlaudio.com/cp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93133

 

Does it slap? What amplifier are you powering it with?

 

I'm very impressed with the output of that little guy. Easily shakes the rearview mirror. I am using the JL JX500 amp. That said I also did the subaru tweeter, kicker CS speaker upgrade and have the Kicker Key amp powering the front and rear doors. I have no need for anything bigger.

 

That sounds like the perfect setup, i think i'll be going with this 8" box so that i can keep that plastics in place, did you dynamat at all behind the plastics?

 

No - I didn't do any noico or dynamat. So far so good - I don't have any buzzing or rattling. I should also mention I used the roadkill fast rings for the front and rear door speakers.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13628LW3V3/JL-Audio-CP208LG-W3v3.html?tp=112



Possible options too. May have to cut middle plastic part for width but ...

 

Looks like removing at least the one plastic bin behind the passenger rear seat is going to be unavoidable in my quest to shove a 10” back there. It’s no worries really. I’ll just have to seal up the vent on the back wall to keep any possible water for getting on whatever box i end up with.

 

Update when done. I have my kicker speakers and tweeters being delivered and will be putting in hopefully before weekend. I think I am going to cut out back plastic and do the dual JL microsub https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13628LW3V3/JL-Audio-CP208LG-W3v3.html?tp=112

I have an old Rockford Fosgate bd1000.1 delivering over 1000rms I havent used in years and in like new condition....I will have to keep gain way down but was told by crutchfield it can handle about 750 really so Looking forward how your setup and mine comes out.

 

That sounds like a sweet setup.

I used to have a bd1000.1 amp back in the day, I think the bench certificate put it close to 1400 watts. Funny now story, I was so excited to hook it up to a pair of soundstream spl 12’s back in the day that I forgot to even look at gains and instantly fried my subs.

Good call on lowering the gains...