GA Tacoma Owners BS Thread

Thanks Cowboy. Thats all good info, but I have the factory 16's and dont really want to spend the extra cash. I am still considering OEM, just interested in others experiences.

I have a '99 Ranger I did a brake upgrade on from 10 to 11”. It made a tremendous improvement. I found a wrecked one in the junkyard and was able to snag the whole system for pennies on the dollar... Thats far less likely to happen with a Yota, tho... If you find one in a junkyard, its 25 years old or just a shell.

Thanks again Cowboy.

 

Understood. My experience, and everything that I've read, indicate that your best bang for the buck is to stick with OEM.

FWIW, I have the Duralast rotors and pads. I've had good experiences with them in the past and they were cheaper than OEM by a good bit with the rebates going on at the time. However, I've not been as pleased with them this go round. I'm wishing I had spent the extra money and bought OEM.

You can send @gunny1005 (Camelback) a PM to get a quote. He is usually one of the best prices to be found and they have great customer service. The weight on those might kill the deal with shipping though. It's worth getting the price from an online dealer and then calling your local dealership to see if they can match the price. It is crazy to me that not all dealerships can (or are willing) to price match.

Amazon is usually within a few dollars of the lower toyota dealership prices.

 

Good stuff.

Precisely why I ask ??? here and not FB. Lol.

... And I converted the Ranger brakes from 9 to 10... Not 10 to 11... Before someone calls me out! Haha!

 

Also for clarity, my plan was to use OEM calipers. I was only looking at the pads and rotors on Amazon.

 

Nothing with the truck but just opened my father's day gifts early

 

Looks good brutha.

 

I will be re-gearing soon. As much as I wish I could fix my issues with some sort of Dongle or ECU update, my rig has gotten too heavy.
The trailer with the dirt bike on the back is just too much for this jammer!
I will be making a trip to have a set of Nitro 529s installed.
I have been part of all the gear threads and after speaking with several people who have done it, this is what I am going to do.
Am I happy about it, yes and no. Yes, I am looking forward to having a truck that can pull a hill without sounding like I am riding my sport bike. No, I don’t wanna spend 4K on a new truck, in which my previous Taco could do this all day.

 

Anyone interested in an affordable AR? Its a PSA lower and 2 uppers. Currently has the nice railed upper on it, Magpul flip ups and a couple 30 rounders. Comes with a nice hard case. Asking 400 OBO. Need some money for house stuff.

Lower:

• Machined from Aluminum Forgings 7075-T6
• Hardcoat Anodizing: MIL-A-8625F, Type III, Class 2
• Milspec diameter Receiver Extension
• M4 Stock, FDE
• Staked M4 Lock Nut
• Standard Carbine Buffer
• Un-notched Hammer compatible with 9mm use
• Caliber: Multi

Upper

• Barrel Length: 16"
• Gas System: Mid-length
• Barrel Profile: A2 Style
• Barrel Steel: 416R Stainless Steel
• Barrel Finish: Stainless
• Chrome Lining: None
• Muzzle Thread: 1/2-28
• Chamber: 5.56 NATO
• Twist Rate: 1:7
• Barrel Extension: M4
• Diameter at Gas Block: .750
• Gas Block Type: Low profile
• Muzzle Device: A2 Flash Hider
• Receiver Material: Forged 7075 T6
• Receiver Type: M4
• Handguard Type: PSA 15" M-Lok Lightweight Rail
• Bolt Carrier Group Included: No
• Bolt Steel: N/A
• Bolt Carrier Profile: N/A
• Charging Handle Included: No
• Sights: Magpul MBUS Sight Set, Black

 

Check out rockauto. I would not get drilled rotors, but the rebuilt calipers are nice. I bet if you called they would swap the rotors for standard.

 

I did a thing yesterday!




Icon 3-leaf AAL will be up for grabs very soon. If anyone is interested go ahead and shoot me a PM.

 

Just curious why 5.29 and not 4.88? I'm no gear expert, so I'm asking more for my own education. I've considered regearing my 2nd gen with 4.56 (up from 3.73). My understanding is that the 3rd gen also has 3.73 gears. 5.29 seems like a HUGE jump and (again, in my very limited knowledge) lower your top speed considerably. Also, the speed that causes your driveshaft to spin could likely result in wicked vibrations with the OEM shaft. Again, I'm no expert. Still in research mode for myself, so I could be wrong.

Good deal and GLWS.

Nice. I love my Dakars. Good choice.

I don't see the bracket that holds the e-brake line in place. Hopefully, it isn't resting on that bolt head. They also look kind of flat already...not quite frowning, but almost....do you have a lot of weight in the bed, or is the other side jacked up off the ground in this pic?

 

Im down to pick up that AAL once you ready buddy! How much you looking for it?

 

Just a head's up for anyone looking for coolers and drinkware. They opened a retail store at the huge RTIC building in Suwanee. It's on Horizon drive, just east of 85.

 

Ended up picking this guy up Saturday! Went to go check it out for $100, the zipper had undone itself from the opposite end, and we couldn't get the zipper pull loose. Told him i couldn't give him what he wanted because of that, ended up walking out of there with the Bedrug AND a Pelican kayak i asked him about that was in his garage, that he didn't want, for $120... Got home and got the zipper pull free, but then the zipper pull ended up breaking. Called Bedrug this AM, and they are sending me a replacement zipper pull free of charge!!

 

I think that photo angle makes them look that way. There's no weight in the bed other than half a tank of gas and my 2 steel bed bars. Here's a better shot that's not from such a high angle:






And yeah, I need to get that brake line situation figured out. If I install the brake line bracket where that pre-tapped hole is, I think I'm going to have a problem with the bracket putting way too much tension on the brake line. With the 5160's there's about 2" more droop allowed over stock and idk, it just didn't look like there was enough movement there to me. I need to check it again. I thought about just running wire loom over the contact points to eliminate direct contact.

I'm not dailying the truck right now, so she's only got about 20 miles on her since the install.

 

I know right seems like to big a jump right...well it’s actually the way to go!
Improves gas mileage to, smooths everything out with the 6speed trans.

Now 5.29 in the 2nd gen with only 5 gears, that’s gonna make your truck roar at 80mph.

5.29 is the sweet spot for these trucks if your armored and rolling with weight.

My buddies truck out west is almost identical to mine, he went 488 and unfortunately that was not enough gear to smooth out this drivetrain.
His truck still will down shift when if should hold the gear.

Lots to read up on, should you ever want to know about these 3rd gens. Basically, these trucks have two very tall gears for the 5th and 6th.
When using 529s, it produces a better combination between the gears and the trans.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-5-29-mega-thread.557305/page-42#post-20878295

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/i-wanna-regear-but.614071/

My buddies experience with 4.88s:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-5-29-mega-thread.557305/page-40#post-20636611
Post #799

 

Agreed on all accounts. If I ever pony up and regear it’ll be straight to 5.29s for me as well. And I don’t have quite the load you do.

I too was a bit shocked when first researching gears for the turd gen. But from what I’ve read, it truly seems 5.29 is the holy land for these things.

 

Curious why you didn't spring (no pun intended ) ahead for the u-bolt flip since you already had it all apart

I'm going 4.88s but now we are comparing apples to asparagus haha

 

Already had the U-bolts on hand. U-bolt flip with SuperBumps will be soon(ish)™.

 

I'm running or have run that exact setup, had medium pack, now heavy with 5160, no brake line issues.