Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

Highly recommend installing NOICO while the door panels are cracked open, Signifigant improvement in audio quality and decreased road noise.

 

I've been running with my Kicker CS speakers and Subaru (Kicker) tweeters for about six month now and still really like them, they seem to get better with time.

 

Which KS 6x9s are your running? 3way?
Are you running the Subaru tweeters up front?

Definitely interested in going all KS. I do want the Kicker Key down the line.

I Just purchased the CS model. They sound good but after adding an amp, I’m afraid they will sound too high.

 

I'm not using 6x9's. I'm running the 6.75" components up front and matching 6.75" coaxials in the rear.

 

Gotcha. Any input on running the 6x9s 3 way with the coaxials in the rear with the kicker key?

Do you think they are worth going KS If I go that route? Or should stick with the CS speakers and do the amp and mess with my EQ.
Im no audiophile but really want something clean with a nice punch.

 

I have a 2016 TSS with the 6" HU and just did the dash speakers Fri night and I can say they are a great improvement . Crisp and clear. Easy to install. The volume is better at a lower setting even. The driver side screw by the windshield is a little tough to get at but is not a "war stopper" by any means. I have the kits for the four doors and will be putting them in shortly. Hoping they go smoothly as well. Then on to the leather seat upgrade. We just got my wife a 2019 Rav4 XLE and I think she is feeling a bit "guilty" so she has given me the thumbs up on my upgrades.

 

The ks are miles above the cs to me. My ears just don’t like titanium tweeters.

Doing the 6x9’s will keep some good mid-bass so that’s a plus.
The Subaru tweeters are KS speakers so your sound will all match.

 

I would go with the 6x9 coax instead of 3way. 3way might still be to bright cause you will still have 6 tweeters up front.

 

Hello everyone, new Tacoma owner and I am looking to upgrade the stereo system. I did a lot of stereo upgrades on my last vehicle, and just looking for something a little bit easier on the truck -- this mod looks to be just about right. I do have an older Rockford Fosgate Amp and a Sub that I pulled out of the car when I traded it in that I might add to the system.

I have a question on installing the Add An Amp. Is this the right procedure:

1) Pull the Headunit and uninstall the front speakers.
2) Install the Add an Amp to the Headunit and plug speakers into the Add an Amp
3) Run RCA cables to my AMP.
4) Run power wire from battery to the Amp

I know I need a turn on wire for the Amp -- do I run a wire from the Amp to the Add an Amp turn on wire?
Where does the Add an Amp "live"? Is it tucked up behind the Headunit? If so, how to I adjust the gains after the install?
If I understand this correctly, this alone will not make the Amp power the front speakers. I can use my Amp to hook up a subwoofer.

Amp adapter for all lines -

$33 Add An Amp Amplifier Adapter Interface to Factory OEM Car Stereo Radio System for select Toyota Scion Subaru Vehicles- Add Subwoofer Bass Amp etc.- No Factory Premium Amp- Vehicles listed below

$41 Add An Amp Amplifier Adapter Interface to Factory OEM Car Stereo Radio System for select Toyota Scion Subaru Vehicles- Add Subwoofer Bass Amp etc.- No Factory Premium Amp- Vehicles listed below

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CQUL240

 

Welcome to TW. There are some pros in here that may provide additional info. But, this adapter appears to just provide a signal to the amp through the RCA outputs -- which are NOT true pre-amp outputs since they pull off of the speaker wires. You'd likely want to connect them to the line-level inputs on the amp. But you are correct, then you need to run speaker wires from the amp to your speakers. Great for adding a subwoofer and amp, though.

 

For that type of adapter, you've got the install portion right.

If your amp accepts speaker level inputs, I'd cut the LOC off and just run speaker wire or RCA's to the amp at speaker level, so you've only got the gain adjustment on the amp to set. The wiring lives behind the head unit so changing the gains on the LOC are a PITA anyway. I used a similar harness that I found on eBay for $20.

I used the included turn on wire for my amp turn on signal.

An add-an-amp harness is only good for adding a Mono subwoofer. It will not also let you power the front speakers, unless you do some cutting and splicing and wire running since there is no return from the amp for an amped speaker signal. At that point, you'd be better served by getting both halves of the Metra harness and building your own T-Harness imo.

 

Ok for what it is worth to anyone. I just completed the 6 speaker install in my 2016 TS5 double cab. It has a 6” Entune Plus HU. I did no sound proof work just the speakers. I am extremely happy with the sound. Read the articles and watch the videos and it is a pretty cut and dry procedure.

 

Thank you everyone who contributed to this post, especially the OP. Just placed my order on Crutchfield, $130 (free shipping) for the front and rear Kicker speakers. Now to Amazon...

 

So I did the tweeters already and am impressed at the improvement. Already looking forward to swapping more.

Question though: If I go with an aftermarket HU, is a Kicker Key even necessary at that point? Would a HU give enough power to the speakers?

I was told by an audiophile co worker that more power is nothing without a better signal and that means new head unit.

Long term I'm looking to go with some Infinity Kappa 6x9 and 6.5 or 6.75 with an Infinity Underseat powered sub since it's dimensions will allow it to snug under the drivers seat.

I just want crisp, clean audio with a little bass if I want it. I have the SR entry level HU so I am sure it'd be width upgrading, but HU's a pretty chunk of change.

 

Aftermarket radios are going to be 17-20w RMS, compared to the Key’s 45w

However, the auto-EQ and time alignment won’t be needed. Go for an alpine power pack, or if you go for the alpine ilx-650 head unit, they make a power pack that mounts directly to the back. Awesome setup

 

That actually looks like quite the ideal set up. Wanted to be able to hook up iDatalink and Android Auto is a plus among the other features.

Is it common to have to use the aftermarket microphone when swapping a head unit? No way to keep the factory one?

 

If you are going to do more than is in this thread, other than adding a Kicker Key amp, you need to spend some time planning the whole system and expect to spend 1500 to 2500 depending on how crazy you want to go and whether you can do the work yourself. Maintaining stock features can be done, but it starts adding up. Worth it for some people. But consult a good shop before going too crazy to avoid wasting time and money so you get what you are looking for.

 

This thread was certainly my starting point but has gotten me thinking about going past it.

My issue is that the SR has the weak link HU so I have to add power in some form or another to make the speaker swap worthwhile.

 

I see. Well, for a low cost upgrade, going with a tunable option like the Key might be good. Go with better speakers if you go that route. But if you have loftier goals, save your money. If you want volume, it is going to take some work. If you have the money, don't half-ass it, you will end up spending more.

 

Really I dont want to go terribly crazy. Just a speaker swap and a powered underseat sub (that will fit under my drivers seat) to get a more complete and improved sound. The SR's HU just wouldnt do the rest justice so it was either new head unit, key, or both. I'd like Android Auto but I've been fairly impressed with the Bluetooth on the HU so far as it's a lightyear improvement over my last vehicle.

I was just curious about whether I could retain the stock mic if I swapped HU's so I wouldnt have to tear things apart unnecessarily.

Also an Audiophile Co-worker told me that more power is nothing if you HU is putting out a crap signal, but he's the kind of guy that builds a speaker box that takes up the rear 1/3 of his van and runs all his own wiring. He might have different priorities than I do...