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JD's '02 Tacoma Build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by Cr250jumper, Dec 3, 2010.

  1. Nov 28, 2017 at 7:35 AM
    #1321
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper [OP] Señor member

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    Oh damn yeah that is pretty brutal, this was my first time really using the new gears too and can say 4.63 with 33's is soooo much better than the 4.10's I had before
     
  2. Dec 12, 2017 at 8:17 AM
    #1322
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper [OP] Señor member

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    Another Toyo bites the dust

     
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  3. Jul 24, 2018 at 10:05 AM
    #1323
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 i member

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    what size rod ends do you have on the rear to fit in the links?
     
  4. Oct 24, 2018 at 2:44 PM
    #1324
    ChadsPride

    ChadsPride Tacoma Owner & Enthusiast

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    Happy Bday Bro! :cheers:

    I love going through that OP
     
  5. Dec 30, 2018 at 11:16 AM
    #1325
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    This things awesome!
     
  6. Jun 19, 2019 at 3:14 PM
    #1326
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    How did you have to modify your driveshaft w/ the 9"? Anything besides redrilling the diff flange?
     
  7. Jun 19, 2019 at 3:27 PM
    #1327
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    I’m sure JD will chime in at some point but he’s not as active as he used to be. You have a couple of options. A few companies out there make a Toyota flange pinion adapter rather than a traditional 1330 or 1350 yoke. You can buy and assemble the pinion with that Toyota flange so the Toyota yoke on driveshaft bolts in. Or you can assemble the pinion with a 1330 or 1350 yoke and have your driveshaft modified to accept that 1330/1350. When I did my 9”, I used a billet 1350 yoke on the pinion, and had my driveshaft re-tubed and lengthened with a 1350. JD used a Toyota pinion adapter.
     
  8. Jun 19, 2019 at 3:46 PM
    #1328
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Thanks Jason I had been checking your axle install and saw how you did the 1350/1330 u-joint and lengthened the rear section of the driveshaft. I'm guessing since I plan on ordering an arb locker / diff from ECGS I'd need to probably do the same thing since I didn't see the Toyota flange as an option on their diff building page.
     
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  9. Jun 19, 2019 at 3:52 PM
    #1329
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ECGS will do it with a flange adapter, but you will have to provide the adapter. I measured for hours and still wasn’t 100% sure if I would have to lengthen or shorten my driveshaft. So rather than bet on a guess, I just had them assemble it with the 1350 and I would figure out the driveshaft after I got it installed. Initially I tried to use a crossover u-joint (spicer makes a u-joint that is half 1330 (Toyota) and half 1350. Popped out the last u-joint and flange on the driveshaft and replaced it with the crossover. Unfortunately there was not enough room in the slip yoke for me to be comfortable, so I had the second half of the driveshaft re-tubed longer with a 1350 end. I have had absolutely zero problems or vibes or issues with this approach so far (over a year now).
     
    Dalandser[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Jun 19, 2019 at 4:07 PM
    #1330
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    If you had gone with a Toyota flange vs the yoke how would it made a change in lengthening or shortening the driveshaft - is there a significant difference between the overall change in length in either setup or was it more that measuring as you cycled without the diff in place that was making it difficult? Any appreciable advantage with the yoke over the flange?

    I'm considering a 35 spline 3.5" housing from Diamond using D60 hubs and 4th gen 4runner brakes including d rotor. It's that vs. a full float from Camburg or Currie that is at least 1-2k more than the diamond and I'm not sure if there's any advantage. Any thoughts? Want FF to limp home if needed - hopefully it will only be overbuilding, but I saved a lot for this and want to choose a good option w/o spending a lot more than is necessary. Not racing - only want to limp.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2019
  11. Jun 19, 2019 at 4:17 PM
    #1331
    jberry813

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    All my measuring was based on drawings and some educated guesses since I never actually bought the flange adapter. With a second gen, the driveshaft has single cardan u-joint. First gens have a double cardan u-joint on the driveshaft. The double cardan gives you a bit more leeway in getting your angles set correct and keeping the Toyota flange gives you more overall length on the driveshaft. My driveshaft was only extended by 3/4” IIRC. And it was a good excuse for me to re-tube it with thicker wall since I do the crawling thing too.

    I would have to go back and read through JDs build, but if memory serves me, he didn’t have to do any driveshaft modifications with the flange adapter. The 1350 yoke is obviously stronger than a Toyota 1330, but a 1330 has more usable driveshaft angle. That said, I measured over and over and over with an angle finder on both my first and second gen. You aren’t going to max out a 1350 angle with a leaf sprung full framed truck even with spring under. Just gotta have a slip yoke.
     
  12. Jul 9, 2019 at 12:16 PM
    #1332
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper [OP] Señor member

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    I used an adapter, there is a link somewhere in the same time when I got the axle, I’ll try and find it. No modifications to the driveline it just bolted directly to the flange

    And thanks Jason
     
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  13. Jul 9, 2019 at 5:42 PM
    #1333
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper [OP] Señor member

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    Here is what I did VVVV

     
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  14. Jul 9, 2019 at 5:52 PM
    #1334
    Dalandser

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    Awesome. I appreciate it man - completely missed that. Would the pinion angle change much going from an 8.4 to a 9” to the point where my spring perch angle would not be useable if given as a reference to someone over the phone? I’m thinking about having the perches at least tacked on when I order my housing based on the diff mounting surface x perch angle on my tundra axle that’s set up for sua.
     
  15. Jul 9, 2019 at 6:20 PM
    #1335
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Set your spring perches yourself. There are way too many variables that can affect it.
     
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  16. Jul 9, 2019 at 6:32 PM
    #1336
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    I figured it would give me a ballpark to just have them tacked on but it was with your thinking that I didn’t want them fully welded.
     
  17. Jul 9, 2019 at 6:38 PM
    #1337
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    It’s literally pointless. I’m too many bourbons deep to search. But if you look through the penguin build i showed how to set pinion angle.
     
  18. Jul 9, 2019 at 6:42 PM
    #1338
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Or just go balls deep cause leafs are for trees

    C97050C6-E26C-46B9-91C4-24DD6E6B06D2.jpg
     
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  19. Jul 9, 2020 at 10:11 AM
    #1339
    SilverGhost

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    Hey bud, did you have an issue with running the charcoal canister below the fuel cell?
     
  20. Jul 11, 2020 at 10:36 AM
    #1340
    slander

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    Just set it yourself
     

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