Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

I've considered carrying a long set of jumper cables so I could self-jump

 

Another good idea.

 

A lot cheaper for sure

 

Now you've done it , you've got me to thinking.

30ft (15ft red, 15ft black) of 1 gauge wire *cheap CCA would be fine, 2 sets of high current DC quick disconnects, 4 - 1 gauge ring terminals, and my hydraulic crimper.

Quick disconnect jump setup between my main battery and secondary battery.
I've got 8 days to make it happen before my 2 week overlanding trip.

 

Getting more expensive than a set of cables from the vato zone or other

 

That's all well and good until you run across someone else that you want to jumpstart.. Then you have to take apart your battery connections to be able to do it. Unless you make a set of Quick Disconnect to Clamp adapters. It's just money though.

 

Don't rush the decision/design. Do what makes the most sense to you, long term.

You can always rig up a temporary set up for your trip.

I need to update my build thread with my dual battery set up and thought process. Reading that might give you a more thorough understanding of where my ideas come from.

 

A small jump pack like

$100 Noco GB40 1000A UltraSafe Car Battery Jump Starter, 12V Jump Starter Battery Pack, Battery Booster, Jump Box, Portable Charger and Jumper Cables for 6.0L Gasoline and 3.0L Diesel Engines

Noco GB40 may also be smaller and lighter than 30ft of Copper cables

 

Isn't it always...

 

True, the coolness factor has some value though.

 

See 3 posts up...

 

I used to think my wiring was neat and tidy.

 

Ok, I'm sportin' wood now.

 

Got my dual batteries installed. "All that for a fridge." hahhaahah

Was a project I'd procrastinated for a while - not because I don't like electrical/wiring - I'm actually more comfortable with that than all the mechanical stuff...but because I knew it would be a giant pain in the ass.

Turned out pretty good though. Whole story and photos as usual:
MOAR Power, More Redundancy - Dual AGM Battery Install

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I had installed a fuse box and circuit connected to main battery in the bed last year. This year with a long trip coming up I decided to invest in and install a 2nd deep cycle AGM battery. A dc-dc charger is what I decided I'd go with and leave my starter battery alone. After researching I decided to go with ctek instead of redarc since it seemed an easier install. Mainly I don’t have a hydraulic crimp tool for large gauge wires and connectors and with ctek since it has posts I could order pre-crimped cables with connectors of my choosing after measuring what I needed and basically hook up everything. The only thing needing some crimping is the 2 small wires for AGM and alternator ( which basically goes to an ignition enabled fuse in the fuse box and the other just goes to ground). I also got the battery tray from Mole overland ( aka adventure ready ). Hooked it all up yesterday and it works.

 

Heres a question for you guys: Im getting ready to wire in my Bussmann relay block and Im wondering where I should land the main pos supply lead? Should I run it all the way back across the engine bay direct to the 'house' battery (maybe 5-6 feet of 4 AWG) or could I just use the existing 2 AWG wire from house batt. to ML-ACR? In that case I would pull power directly from the house side of the ML-ACR (maybe 2 feet 4 AWG in addition to the existing ~6 feet 2 AWG used to tie the two batteries together)

I have enough 4 ga to run it all the way across, Im trying to get the best balance of simplicity, weight, safety, and looks. Ive already got 2x 2 ga wires for the dual setup as well as several smaller cables running along the factory harness behind the engine. Figure if I could avoid running another heavy wire there, that would be good.. Also, fusing is an issue. Id like to use a breaker located beside the Bussmann. Not sure Id want to have a run all the way across the engine bay without protection. Whereas just a foot or two unprotected wouldnt bother me as much

Thoughts on each option?

 

I’d run it the the ml-acr and call it a day.

 

Electrically, over the distances, wire gauges, and (likely) amperages you're going to be dealing with, there's no difference between running all the way back to the house battery or running to the house battery size of the ML-ACR.

Doing the former, you'll have the possibility (but in reality, essentially immeasurable) of more voltage drop due to the longer run of 4ga wire. (vs. some 2ga + some 4ga if you go to the ML-ACR)

Doing the later, you'll have the possibility (but in reality, likely immeasurable) of more RFI (electronic interference) being introduced to your Bussmann. (since you won't technically have an uninterrupted line to the battery; though really, with good contact at the ML-ACR post, it's essentially uninterrupted).

So, it sounds like you're leaning towards the second option... and that'll be fine, electrically. Don't forget to put a circuit breaker in the positive line between the ML-ACR and Bussmann though - something like this in the 80A range is likely good.

Next question: How are you grounding the Bussman (since the ML-ACR doesn't deal with grounds)? A direct line (5-6' of 4ga) back to the house battery? I'd definitely go that route, rather than grounding to the frame/body/etc., in order to reduce RFI.

 

Good point about the EMI.. I have to add ferrites to my one of my radios anyway, so it probably wont matter too much in the end.

Yup I have an 80A panel mount breaker spec'd out, just need to iron out a few more details before I place the whole order

This is my ground bar where Ill be running all of that. Direct back to the neg terminal of the main battery which is obviously tied to the house as well.

So bottom line it sounds like Im not missing anything here, thanks for the sanity check guys