DIY Tailgate reinforcement

Nice. That'll stand up to some abuse. For the center row of screws, what did you screw into? I'm assuming the factory sheet metal crossmembers. Also, what type of screws did you use for that?

 

I replaced all of the factory attachment hardware (except up at the cap row) with Rivenut threaded inserts and 1/4-20 stainless button heads. Decided I ought to also utilize the cross-members, so I laid out the pattern on the cover, drilled it, then transferred the pattern down onto the t-gate.

 

Rivnuts... how it shoulda been done from the factory. Nice!

 

Not sure I agree, or at least understand, this. Stiffness is proportional to thickness cubed, not squared, for a given material. Steel is 3 times as stiff as aluminum for the same thickness, though strength (not the same thing as stiffness) depends on the alloy as well as the thickness. So while a .100” thick sheet would be 2.5 times as stiff as .075” thick if you use the same material, going to aluminum reduces the stiffness by a factor of 3 and more than negates the thickness increase. In any case, if this metal plate is securely attached to the tailgate, with rivnuts perhaps instead of the OEM plastic wellnuts, it should increase both the stiffness and strength of the tailgate ... probably more effective than going to thicker steel

 

Wow, really surprised by the negative comments regarding the OP and his solution, which BTW is the same that I performed only with 20ga bought for $20 at scrap yard. No engineer here but given the really $hitty stock tailgate from Toyota anything added to the tailgate would seem to be an improvement. If you haven't done it take a few minutes and remove the stock cover and have a look/feel of how weak the assembly is. My truck is used daily as a rolling construction tool box and material hauler; Yea I had the piece of plywood knocking around as an overlay but what a PITA. In daily use I have no doubt that the flat steel sheet has added the extra support I was looking for even secured with the stock screws (rivenuts are on the agenda). Are there other solutions, of course we know this but IMO this should be added to the cheep and quick mods list. Don't knock it till you tired it!!

 

I wonder if you could fill those areas in the tailgate with expanding foam and then put the tailgate skin back on. You would have to block off the mechanical areas.

 

Sorry for shortening the explanation - The bending strength of a uniform flat sheet is evaluated with the section modulus BH²÷3. Where the width "B" is equal, the answer varies with H² (H is the thickness). Last time I looked, 6061 aluminum had a yield strength of 35,000 psi - which happens to be the same 35,000 psi yield strength as common grades of mild steel sheet.

I like the idea of using foam as a stiffener - I have an engineer buddy who has some incredible jack stands (now many years old) made of ancient BUD cans (steel) full of foam - end loaded. Don't do this at home - they don't seem to make any steel beer cans any more......

 

Stiffness, in this case, is not as critical as tensile strength. The plate is bolted on all four edges so skin will act more like a drum head then a beam and thus does not need to be stiff to carry a heavy load. Rivnuts are a good way to keep the drumhead tight. Loosen all the bolts and then stiffness will matter.

 

Despite the tensile strength being less due to it being a flat sheet isn't it still stronger than stock? I often carry a motorcycle on my tailgate and have wondered how to make a better cover. I feel like the best thing is to have a fab shop do the bends and just grind out the shape.

 

It should provide some measure of resistance to flex. I just wouldn't load it drastically higher because you have the sheet. If you are looking at supporting heavy loads on the tailgate then look into some additional structure behind the plate inside the body of the t-gate. But for reducing flex under a person stepping on it I can see this helping a good bit.

For a bit more resistance to bending you could also bolt some of the 1/8 thick 1 in aluminum angle from Home depot to the back of the plate. Maybe double them up into a T shape or something.

 

As an FYI, the MobTown vendor page has lengthy discussion thread about steel vs aluminum tailgate reinforcement plate and ribs vs no ribs. You may find what you seek there.

 

When I’m building service trucks at work (f750’s so weight isn’t an issue in this example), we use 1/2 inch steel plate to build the rear bumper/mobile fabrication station. You can literally smack the shit out of it with a hammer while in the field because it’s thick and supported by internal ribs. Aluminum may be lighter, but it can’t handle sudden shock as well as steel.
If op has achieved what he was out to do, then great job! I love seeing these sorts of fab projects.

 

Great job!

Now you need to do the chain support mod

4000 miles 2 motorcycle rear tires sitting on tailgate no problems.

 

Your build thread is completely amazing! You know it is noteworthy when it takes a few seconds to load up each page with all the pics.

It is probably obvious to most, but in your chain support mod, are you locking a chain link into the tailgate latching mechanism?

 

Are those chains loud when you go over bumps with the tailgate closed? Do you only put them on when you need them?

 

Yes, feed the last link into the lock latch mechanism until it clicks twice (very important). Thank you for the kind words on my build thread. I have to admit this chain mod is not mine. I found it on TW about 2.5 years ago when I was researching ways to reinforce tailgate. I don't even think the original inventor is known, the guy who posted about it said he got it off of someone on TW.

 

Only used when I'm transporting motorcycles. Go on and off very easily, you can't leave them on and close the tailgate.

 

Thanks, I realized right after I posted that you couldn’t close it with the chains on. Great idea though for what it’s used for.

 

anyone have any more info on how to do this/parts needed such as the rivnuts?

Mobtown used to have a hardware upgrade kit but are now closed

 

I got the Rivnuts and the stainless socket screws from McMaster-Carr. Simple to mail-order, look at their website. The nuts fit into a sized, drilled hole (you provide) and they are expanded in place with a high tensile capscrew (1/4-20 Gr 8 is what I used). Get a few, you are going to lean on them a bit. I just used a wrench to tighten the installation screw until they were bound tightly in place. Could use a larger size if you want.

The issue of the greater elasticity of the aluminum is also its salvation. While it might bend three times as much under the load - if it doesn't reach "yield strength" - it bounces right back. I had a panel like this on my F-150 for years and years up in Wyo - and beat on it more than a bit. No problemo.

I've got my chains for the tailgate made a bit shorter to carry it at an angle. So the top edge of the gate is held up to a height that matches the notched supports in the sides of the bed lining. That way, with some sticks fitted across the notches - you can carry an upper, longer piece of building material without the droop. Check out my album.