What is best way to remove rusted rear shock top nut?

What is best way to remove rusted rear shock top nut?

I cut the passenger side top nut off with a cutoff wheel but I still have the other side to remove. Been spraying the threads with PB Blaster but I can't get the nut to turn. Damn brine they spray in the winter here is awful on fasteners.

I need another cutoff wheel because I went through my last one getting the passenger side off. Should I try a Bi-metal sawzall blade? Metal air saw blade?

Any another tips to get the nut off?

 

Sawzall will work.

 

A 50/50 mix of acetone and atf. I find this works better than pb blaster for the really tough stuff.

Do you have a torch? A good bit of heat then smack it with a hammer, then some good umph with a cheater pipe for extra leverage.

 

Burn it off with the O/P torch is generally my go-to. It doesn’t help that the threaded section is about 36 miles long...

 

never used one but an option...……..

https://www.lowes.com/pd/craftsman-...4_c_&msclkid=0b8f268289ef11c581597b8c65e6c1e5

 

Try heat red hot then spray it with water - worked for me with a lot of rusted bolts and nuts in the past.
Sawzall was suggested - you might want to try a dremel with a cut off wheel - I've use the dremel many times for problems like this - not this particular problem but it would probably work.

 

Heat it up and pour some of this on it. Let it sit overnight.

 

X2

 

Sawzall is how I get them off at work.

 

Cut it- PSA- wear safety glasses as it will pop straight up once the blade it through.

 

You can use some brake fluid and a syringe. Use the syringe to put brake fluid into the threads.

 

Pee On It! Could take more than one application!

 

Sawzall! There's too much pucker factor when throwing sparks near fuel tank with a cut-off wheel!

 

Goaa be careful doing this, if you get the shock mount hot then cool it off like that it will weaken the metal

 

Assuming they're not going back on, sawzall, or visegrip the crap out of the shaft if you're skeered, it'll come loose or snap, either way you win! (Unless you bust your knuckles when it gives, I guess that would be a draw?)

 

Eh... they're so anal about vapor emissions they put a charcoal filter in the airbox... unless you opened something up, there's no more fuel vapors next to your fuel tank than there are anywhere else in the atmosphere. If you've got a sealed gas can in the garage, there's more vapor hanging out on account of that than your gas tank.

 

Still...I'm not gonna risk my shiny truck and this perty face when I could be using a better/safer approach.

 

Didn't think twice sawzall done in 60 seconds . Worrying about blowing up my truck is a nonissue . If fumes were escaping you would have a check engine light on with an evap code. Not to mention as a young fellow pumping gas at a garage with some real crazy's for years and not one incident in the 60s nore heard of one. My 2.0 Foxes will be coming off this week but I coated the threads with Synthetic disc brake lube so they will come off like I just installed them