What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

It’s already too small for what I do. It’s running 80% of the time during my long sandblasting sessions.

 

That’s what I was wondering. Maybe it’s a drop bracket? The UCA angle looks fine.

 

im running same one (this is a screen cap of a video. some reason they display flickers on vid and only shows either the afr or boost when screen capping but both are there)

 

More tools is always better.

But I highly doubt you'll fit an impact with a socket on up under there.

Put the truck in 4wd and 4th gear. Then link a second 14mm or 17mm wrench to the 14mm on the nut to double it up. Load it up with one arm, then smack it with your other hand. Should crack loose. I've never had issues breaking them loose this way, you definitely don't need 1300ftlbs anyways...and if you do..then I'm a lot stronger than I think I am..

This is doubled up wrenches:

 

Bought the truck with a seized up collar on one of the coilovers. Threw in the spacers as a temporary fix until i can get a spare set to be able to pull the camburgs and see if i can get the collar free and have them rebuilt. The UCA angle if corrected by the JBA arms.

 

Hah! I'm sure it's a mixture of your strength, experience and stubbornness! I lack all three, so I get discouraged and take out my frustration by buying expensive tools. Thank you for the tip, Blackdawg... it probably is the right way to do it because the clearance is so tight it's hard to get in there with anything big. I was using 6-point ratcheting flex-head wrenches, so I'm going to have to find a different set to try this.

 

I use a flex head usually on the nut, then a bigger wrench to double up on that. But if it takes a lot of heman strengh, just a normal wrench I find is best.

Watch your knuckles, cause when it breaks, shits gonna go flying haha

 

When I changed my carrier bearing, there was no way that a socket could get 1 of the 14MM bolts on the driveline.
I had to use 14MM box end wrenches and a foot on the frame, on my back. No one told me to make sure to mark the driveline with paint or something, but I remembered to do it from past military experience of some sort of "phasing" thing.
Once all the bolts were out, the driveline didn't disconnect. I had to put a box under the rear section of the driveshaft and then keep the carrier bearing attached, then start truck and put in drive for .5 sec and you will hear the driveline drop.

 

thats good point to mark the drive shaft and flange.

I just use a pry bar to separate it. Works like a charm.

 

Got my axles back from the shop, reinstalled and the fresh brakes done. Also made a couple of extensions for the parking brake to get the cables off the leafs. Still need to bleed brakes, top off gear oil, reinstall tires and put the bed back on. Getting close!

 

You've got the welder there don'tcha? Plug 'er in, turn on the gas, pull the trigger.

Or, if you're coming up this way tomorrow morning, feel free to bring it by and I can tack it for you. Depends of course on when Dan's going to be down there.

Like @Digiratus said - the Mid-torque is great, and much smaller. Takes off everything I've thrown at it so far - axle nuts, crank pulley bolt, etc. Zip zip. One of my favorite purchases.

 

Dan is coming over in tomorrow to do his as well. Have you done this mod?

 

The mid torque is what I’ll get them. I really like the high torque model, but it’s just too damn bulky.

Where did you get it? Heard you have to buy the battery and tender separate.

 

You'll love it.

I think my tacs broke on Igor though.

 

Nope, haven't done that to mine. I don't notice any slop at all in my steering - likely due to fewer years of bashing on it than you (so far). I'm sure I'll get to it eventually though.

 

I also got mine at Home Depot when they were doing this crazy sale. I'd just get it wherever you can get it cheapest. Oh, and I like the 2AH battery. Obviously doesn't last as long as the 5, but it makes the whole thing lighter, and lasts plenty long.

 

What was the result of that project?

 

Yeah, if you don't notice it or it isn't bothersome to you, no point in doing this.

We are going to tack weld the slip joint to take the play/slack out of it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/steering-play-fix.581849/#post-19348245

 

Hopefully that works, my tilt mechanism was actually my problem with the sloppy movement.
The tilt mechanism was worn out and had to find a complete new used assembly as parts are not available any more,

 

Hank's facial reconstruction surgery begins.