Waterproof electrical connectors

Looking for quick connectors for 8awg (edit: not 8 gauge, 6) wire. Like these popular ones or similar.

$9 BUNKER INDUST 50A 6-10 Gauge Battery Quick Connect Disconnect Wire Harness Plug Kit 4 Pcs Battery Cable Quick Connect Disconnect Plug for Winch Auto Car Trailer Driver Electrical Devices,Red

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSKB9C3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aoReDb0VSGHXE

 

Those work on 6 to 10 gauge from the description. Last time I checked 8 is in between 6 and 10

Don’t mean to be an ass, but you do know AWG stands for American Wire Gauge, or simply gauge for short.

 

These Anderson SB50 type of connectors (6-10 ga) are not sealed/waterproof. You would need to buy a waterproof boot to achieve an IP64 rating.

 

Yea but I need waterproof.

 

That should do it thank you

 

Water "proof" is a myth. Unless you're in a submarine.

Just let water get in and get out and you won't have any problems.

Trapping water in a connector is the biggest problem with sealing the hell out of stuff.

 

You wont find too many quick disconnect connectors at 8 awg. Really bolt on terminal lugs into junction blocks are the most common when you get big. With a properly crimped wire, and properly torqued lug, the joint is basically sealed. The clamp force is enough to form a gas tight seal and prevents water or anything getting into the joint. If you want to keep it out of saltwater, then put the wire thru an enviromental bulkhead fitting into a watertight box.

$10 Hilitchi 30 Piece Nylon Plastic Waterproof Adjustable 3.5-13mm Cable Glands Joints Cable Gland - PG7, PG9, PG11, PG13.5, PG16

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Plastic-Waterproof-Adjustable-3-5-13mm/dp/B01MDTUIIA/

Alternatively

There are mil spec connectors circular connectors, if you are really interested. They are significantly expensive, and you have to get the exact P/Ns to mate. Digikey has a decent variety of the more affordable ones. I will look some up, prefer crimp or solder?

 

I'm just looking to wire up my fridge, which will be in my bed, semi covered. These connectors were just the first idea that came to mind. I'd really rather have the other half of the connector permanently mounted to the rack or bed instead of a plug on a wire flopping around. So far I see some other possibilities but nothing I'm sold on.

 

My fridge draws about 5a max. 10 or 12g is good.

 

Good catch. I’m using 8 awg (edit: 6 awg) to run a 40 amp circuit to a bed mounted sub box, to which the fridge connection will be wired. Forgot about that. I’ll go 10 gauge for the fridge wiring.

 

***Ah! Screwed up! I’m using 6 gauge for the circuit. Original post has been edited.***

Interesting. Crimp would be better for me, thanks. But as golfindia pointed out, I confused myself: the 6 awg wire (from Skycraft, per your recommendation) will be what I’m using to run the circuit to the sub box in the bed. What I need is some type of connection to plug the fridge into the circuit. I want the option of easy disconnect when I pull the fridge out.

 

Check out Delphi Weatherpacks

 

You should be able to mount these to your bed/rack. I've seen forklifts with the largest size of this style of connectors (SB350) mounted on the side of the lift. If you still wanted to use the hoods, you would have to drill holes through them to match the holes in the connectors.

The picture above is an SB50, the smallest of the SB series of connectors. It is rated to 50A and 6 - 10 ga wire. The body of the terminals are solid, so they are not really made for crimping. The best way to attach the wire is to use a bottle torch and melt solder into the wire cavity. Insert the wire into the terminal and hold it until the solder hardens. Just make sure the terminals are positioned correctly before soldering.

 

So, if I am understanding, you probably dont actually want a connection on the 6awg high power wire going into your sub panel.

I am assuming you want to hard wire the heavy wire into a sub box, with fuses (no quick connect). Then from the sub box you will run a short run with (possibly) smaller wires to the fridge with a quick connector of some kind.

Reason you can go smaller, is shorter run to the fridge (I assume)

How exposed to damage will this connector be and how concerned with damage and cosmetics? The Anderson connectors are pretty good, but not water proof, but I doubt you really need waterproof up in the bed. The Anderson are also relatively standardized, depending on the size. (Popular with hams and amateur radio guys on some sizes)

If you really want the 'high class', I would suggest metal mil circular connectors, or their lower cost but similar plastic alternatives. But they are expensive, and essentially impossible to find a replacement in a pinch. (Use these at work and at home on aircraft components that have them, but too expensive for my typical usage myself except some of the cheapest ones.) I always go for solder on these, due to the criticality of the crimp on these connectors. They make huge numbers of variations on these, partially to make it impossible to hook the wrong item to the wrong wire, so interchangability is kind of precluded...

Some examples from digikey, there are literally about 10,000 options... NOTE, do not pull the trigger on these until 100% verify I gave you mating p/n. I have not double checked these, just intended to give you an idea of the options ...

Plastic housing, crimping pins, up to 10 awg, 30 amp
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/conec/17-400153/626-1863-ND/6053938
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/conec/17-400123/626-1860-ND/6053935
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/conec/17-400260/626-1870-ND/6053945



Mil spec metal, solder,
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...tions/MS3102R10SL-4P/MS3102R10SL-4P-ND/378625
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...ons/MS3106F-10SL-4S/MS3106F-10SL-4S-ND/378647
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...trial-operations/97-60-10/97-60-10-ND/3777749

 

^ yep

Yea, I was using “waterproof” pretty loosely to see what recommendations would come back. Mainly just looking for durability, UV stable, corrosion resistant, dust / dirt etc...

Moderate risk of damage, but I’ll run the wire through some kind of conduit - probably the irrigation tubing we talked about in the other thread, maybe PVC pipe. I’m generally a fan of higher quality within cost reason, so depending on how expensive “high-class” is, I may go for the more expensive connectors and consider carrying a spare.

For whatever reason the links didn’t show up in your post but I see they carried over into the quotes. Looking now...

 

Refresh and they should show.
Keep in mind there are just a multitude of similar, but I guessed you were looking for something like this, with a bulkhead/panel mount connector on one side.

 

I’ve used those cheap, forklift-style, non-waterproof connectors on my work trucks for years. I just packed the wire end and connector end with a generous amount of silicone lube (not caulking) Never had a problem with water or rust.

 

This thread went here if anyone gives a






https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-do-you-know-if-a-ground-connection-is-right.617077/


Maybe it’ll help somebody...

 

If you go this route, buy the good crimpers if you plan on doing lots of them. The good ones are a $100 vs. $25. The inexpensive ones will work, but are a bit aggravating.