Tailgate Anti theft device

Send PM for info, thx

 

Not quite sure what seal your referring to, maybe just pull the one corner of the gate back just enough to get alittle room

 

I mentioned it above that I have the RokBlock tailgate seal to keep the dust / water out:

$50 ESI ROK Block 4.25" Width Tailgate Gap Cover and Ultimate Tailgate Seal with Taper Seal 6ft for Sidewalls

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R8KBV9Y

It's a sweet little mod and really helps with the fine silt we have here.

I pulled the right side of the TG last night when I used my 1/2in drive T40. With full extension of the seal, there was only enough room for the socket extension to clear the bumper cap and be straight on the bolt. There is no way to get a drill chuck close enough. Even so, an EasyOut would not work any better than the 1/4in drive T40.

A dremel could get in there, but I have serious doubts working with it still on the truck.

Not a big deal. Just a failure on my part.

 

I wish I had the solution for you, sorry, if for some reason u can't get it, I will refund your money plus the shipping cost, thx again my friend

 

Thanks, Chris.

No worries! This not on you at all. It is a killer anti-theft device.

I can sell it to someone local and let them know that the bolt might have high strength thread lock. They'll get it with four coats of matte black.

 

@tonered

Assuming your seal is attached to the skin of the tailgate and bed floor...
Try taking the inner skin off the tailgate, then fold it onto the bed with the rock block seal as the hinge between bed and inner tg skin.

You should then be able to remove the tg and get both the room to work as well as access to the inner end of the bolt to tap or heat, or head of the bolt to drill it out.

If my assumption is wrong... remove seal from the tg side and use 3m tape to re-attached after tg is fixed. Worst case invest in a new seal.

Good luck!!!

 

Hey, @TC_Mic .

That is a great thought. Yes, the seal it attached to the slight recess on the bottom of the TG skin. This area:


It looks like all the fasteners are above that. So, I should be able to remove it.

On that worst case, removing the seal will be no easy task. It came with some 3M adhesion promoter. That stuff adds what feels like double the grip of VHB tape. So, I think that removing the seal will destroy it. After removing a bunch of VHB tape for the poorly installed bumper protector on the wife's Forester, I'd rather not put that much effort into tape removal again. Two blistered thumbs and a blistered index finger.

 

Um... if the worst case.....one more word....knife.

 

Hahaha! Mods Gone Wrong!

With a knife, I'd be in it for a new bumper skin also.

 

I'm also beginning to have issues on my '18 trying to get that torque bold off. Nothing I have will fit and I suppose I'll have to try removing that portion of the tailgate or maybe visit the dealer for some advice or assistance.

 

Some are very tough and others are not, out of over 200 sold, only 4 have had a issue with their torx screw. Try a free loaner impact driver from autozone

 

Well I couldn’t wait to get this mod installed, “Easy Peasy” right? got it bead blasted, painted and ready to put on and that’s when the fun began.
I Fubar’d Two T40 torx wrenches the last one broke with the end stuck in the bolt head and I have not been able to remove it yet.
Removed the TG and tried a Carbide bit but it won’t touch the hardened piece of the wrench. Next I’ll try and Mig a shaft to the broken wrench and use a slide hammer to get it out.
It looks like Toyota used some special “Space Age” kind of Loctite on these bolts. For now it’s turned into grade A Cluster Fuck. All on me though, Shit Happens!

 

hmmm...I might be waiting to attempt to remove this T40 since it seems as hard as Wolverine's Bones....

 

Ouch.

Sounds like i'll need to do my best to use a good torx socket and maybe a impact on the first go around.

 

Some trucks, much like the fuel door screw, seem to have been torq'd down by a big green Avenger.

I would suggest, pulling the inner panel off the tailgate, spray the inner end of the bolt with some penetrating oil (I prefer PB Blaster), give each end of the bolt a rap or two with a hammer and punch, THEN try to break it loose with an impact drill while being careful not to strip the head. If it still not wanting to budge heat cycle the bolt from the inner side (not the head of the bolt) with a high temp solder iron or similar, then try the impact driver again.

IF that fails may want to remove the tailgate from the truck, repeat the heat cycling, oiling, and tapping of the bolt; use a manual hammered impact driver to break it loose. Lastly try an extended breaker bar, keep in mind there is a higher risk of bolt damage with the big bar. I think some of the issue here is the bolt is NOT as hard a metal as it could/should be with the ft/lb and loctite that was used to secure it.

IF you destroy the head, you will be force to extract the bolt, likely via drilling it out and using a tap to clean up the threaded insert prior to installing a new bolt.

NOTE: Using a torch for heat would likely be a poor choice due to the risk of damage to painted surfaces.

Good luck everyone!! May the odds ever be in your favor.

 

There has been a hand full that were difficult try a free loaner impact driver from autozone

 

Painted it last night an was excited to install this easy mod tonight. Sprayed some Liquid Wrench on it after reading the last few posts. Had a bit that seemed to fit pretty snug, put it in my Dewalt impact driver and nothing. Leaned on it a little more and must have angled the drill a little...stripped it out. Total bust, disappointment ensued. And to think, I am gonna try to install the puddle pods if I can ever score them.

 

I Haven't Got Mine Yet - But It Is Highly Recommended...
Use Good Condition Torx Sockets
Set Socket Into Screw With A Few Good Hammer Shots
Impact Driver Is Best For Stubborn Screws

 

Got It! - Cleaned Up Nice -
Ready For Paint...

 

I'm hoping mine comes this weekend. I'm nervous about the bolts stripping though.