Looking for educated opinions on Venomrex wheels PURCHASED

I'm not sure if you're still trying to sell wheels, or if you really don't get it.
Your OEM lugs get over 13 revolutions to full torque, to give you an idea of what the engineers thought was adequate.
Here's a lug nut for a reference of width and potential thread purchase.

 

I am really trying to understand this. When people ask, I want the correct information.

 

So is the number of threads in case the lug works itself loose?

 

The larger the contact patch between the lug and the lug nut, the less likely you'll have a problem with the nut / lug backing off, stripping, failing, etc.
You could achieve full torque value while only catching a thread and a half, but that doesn't mean you're GTG.

 

I certainly would not want that, but full threads is different I would think. But I think I will get some longer studs...just to be safe.

 

So how many turns did you get at 45mm?

 

Replacing all the studs sounds like a major pain in the dick for 5mm, but I don’t want my wheels falling off with my kids in the back seat.

 

I don't think they would fall off, but I agree. The extra safety margin is important. I figure the shop that mounts the wheels and tires can replace the studs easy enough.

Can anyone verify that these are the STOCK specs for the studs? This is off of Dorman's website. Once I am sure, I can find a 45mm one.

M12-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud - 14.20mm Knurl, 40mm Length
Application Summary: General Motors 2010-85, Toyota 2019-73

Application Notes:
Front; Rear; Slotted Base Type

Application Attributes:
Package Quantity: 1
Thread Size: M12-1.50
Packaging Type: Bag
Thread Length (In): 31.877 mm
Thread Handling: Right Hand Thread

 

The extra 5mm will get you to 9 1/2 - 10 turns. Picture with stock lug nut to compare.

Replacing the studs was actually really easy once I had a system.
On the front, pull the wheel, pull the bolt that holds the brake line bracket, pull the caliper bolts and hang the caliper so it won't deform the metal line. Thread on a nut (I used a regular nut), knock the old out. Then I used an old lug nut and a spacer to pull the new ones in until they stopped with a 1/2 ratchet. You'll have to wedge the axle to get leverage this way. You could use an impact, but after doing 2 that way, I decided I didn't want to listen to that 22 more times!
For rear, I blocked the front wheels, put it in neutral, pulled the wheel and the drum, knocked the old ones out. Neutral was important as there's one good spot to get the studs in and out. Do it before you pull the drum, you have to step on the brake to shift out of park, and it'll over extend the brake piston if the drum is off. I went through and knocked all the old out, and placed the new, then put it back in park before I seated them, just so I could get the warning beep to shut off, and to have leverage to wrench.

That is the information I found as well, and based my purchase off. I think there may be a Celica stud that works and is 45mm, but I couldn't find enough info online to confirm.

 

Great info! Thanks!

 

^ That's them.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-5-Napa...Stud-12-97mm-Knurl-42-5mm-Length/153490495307

This is the closest I’ve found, maybe one extra turn there?

 

Wrong size knurl. Our trucks use a 14.2 mm knurl.

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...4410mm-length-sold-by-each-610-462/22972128-P

Or

https://www.ebay.com/i/173865181337...MIvN-ygvGJ4wIVhF6GCh3qWgrQEAQYASABEgIJ-PD_BwE ?

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-610-462

 

^
That's as close as I've seen without cutting the stud or modifying the interference fit.

Don't have an immediate link, but I've seen them cheaper.
May have been listed with the same Dorman part#, but in imperial measurements.

The added 4.1mm ÷ 1.5 TP should equate to an additional 2.73'ish revolutions on each lug.

 

Between the rubbing and the stud issues, Im having a hard time pulling the trigger on these

 

Down to just 3 DAYS LEFT!! Sold out of the Coal Black and only a few sets of Highland Bronze and Tungsten Graphite left!!

 

You’ll only have the rubbing if you go to a non stock equivalent tire size. For me, the tire I wanted didn’t come in an equivalent size, so I ended up an inch over.
The studs are up to you. If it was a bolt with a nut anywhere else, you would get enough to be fully threaded in the nut. Being a tire lug, I think everyone would rather be on the side of cautious. It is an easy swap, I’m a mediocre mechanic, and I knocked it out in about 2 hours.

 

What is a stock equivalent size?