Official Crawlbox BS thread!

Yeah the linkages will definitely hit on the side under load. There is a ton of drivetrain twist when the truck is bound up

 

I bought 2 new T-Case mounts which should hold it in place pretty good. If I find that it's not holding it well enough I'll go to a poly or hard mount.

 

thanks for looking out. I've been watching this thread since it started. I'm now going back and re-reading every post, taking notes, and compiling my questions for my install in later this year or early 2020.

 

So you solid mounted the stock t-case? If you did keep an eye on it. I talked to a few very knowledgeable folks about whether or not to do that. It was unanimous not to. Letting the stock case move a little with the torque will keep other things from breaking. I just mounted the crawlbox to a custom support welded to the crossmember. So far I have had no issues with anything and I wheel a lot.

Don't wait man. Do the research and install one. Seriously. lol

 

Slightly different than what you said. I bought two new OEM t-case mounts but I need to see if I have enough clearance within my setup to accommodate the flex of the squishier mounts . If I have too much flex I'll likely move to poly mounts based on your reply...thanks for the info

 

Hey all,

I'm having trouble finding someone to lengthen/shorten my driveshafts. It seems everyone has equipment for Spicer stuff and can't chuck up a Toyota u-joint in their lathes.

Does anyone have advice? Not sure what to try next.

I'm in Lancaster, PA.

Thanks,
Andy

 

I went to a shop in Pensauken Nj for mine...

 

Couple Jersey guys recommended this shop EDIT*** RPC DRIVELINE ***

From reviews and with dealing with High Angle, this will be the next place I'll take my driveshafts.

 

Any reputable driveline shop should be able to make the modifications. RPC driveline has done mine and several other members here. They are just over the betsy ross bridge in NJ

 

Thanks all.

I ended up at Hartman's in Reading, PA.

He had no issues with it, actually has the ujoints for the rear CV in stock so im having him replace those while he is at it.

I'll post how it ends up. Felt like my parts were in great hands!

Andy

 

Has anyone done this or would know what would be involved in doing a conversion from J shift to electronic shift?

I know most people do this the other way around - however when I plan to install a crawlbox the Electronic shifter would be much easier to relocate as it doesn't require four sticks in your shifter area, only 3 (I have a 5 speed manual so 4 sticks would get a little crowded)

Thanks

 

No idea about that, but It’s really not bad. You should come sit in mine.

 

I'll shoot ya a text

 

probably gonna copy this pretty closely (might use TG gears instead of MC).. with the help of @Snowy

any tips?

 

Unfortunately Inchworm is out of business, Which was bought out by LowRange. LowRange is now bought out by TG.

So better off just buying a complete TG crawlbox w/4.7s from the start when they have a sale everyonce in awhile. Also MC 4.7s dont work with TG because TG's coupler from automatic/manual trans output shaft to the their 4.7s are slightly different then MCs.

 

I have a line on a used inchworm box.. just need to figure out what gears to get really. And sounds like you went that route.

 

I would look at using the case that advance adapters has. Little more beef to them and aren’t old worn out cases being repurposed. Just gotta get all the guts from somewhere.

 

Nice! In that case, get a rebuild kit w/bearings from MC and see if the MC 4.7s are in stock!!

I think it's worth it to have the MC 4.7s vs TGs

 

deal is too good to pass up

 

https://www.marlincrawler.com/trans...ear-drive/470-1-competition-chromoly-gear-kit

This in 23 spline? Seems a bit spendy. That's another 150 bones. Worth it?