Long Travel BS Thread

No need for that. To much stress in my eyes. Plan is to go to an atlas at some point so that’ll give me front digs and these should help even more. Thanks man

 

Anyone know where I can source 1/4-3/16" thick washers with a 1/2" ID and at least a 1.5" OD? Looking to make the "barrel" part of this with the bolt through it:

 

Image isn't working. However, what about just getting some 1/4 or 3/16" plate and cutting what you need with a 1.5" hole saw and opening up the center hole to 1/2".

 

Because I'd have to buy a 1.5" hole saw and getting 1/2" holes dead center w/ my crappy drill isn't always as successful as I'd like it to be. I can do it - I did these with a grinder and my HF drill press, but to get the fit I want I'd like to tack everything all square - I can totally do it with my hand tools, but I wouldn't mind paying a few bucks to save the time and have nice clean parts.

 

Here's some on McMaster.

https://www.mcmaster.com/92303A108 2"OD, 0.531"ID for 1/2" bolt, 0.235-0.265" thick, 18-8 stainless.
https://www.mcmaster.com/91525A364 1.5" OD, 0.5" ID, 0.170-0.200" thick, 316 stainless.
https://www.mcmaster.com/98370A115 Same as above, but 18-8 stainless.

 

Thanks - I live 3 miles from Santa Fe Springs where they have one of their will calls. I can't weld stainless though.

 

Everything I could find on McMaster in the size you want that isn't stainless is zinc coated or galvanized.

 

zinc can be removed - all I could find was stainless the other day - link to the zinc coated?

 

Here you go. ID is just over 0.5" for a 1/2" bolt; OD from 1-3"; and thickness from just under 3/16" to just over 1/4".

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=f1d62330dece4007a4b1c4ba22c0340ejxfiwnus

 

Why not use like a weld washer from ruffstuff?

 

The OD needs to be 1.5 to weld onto a 1.75 .120 tube - the OD's I saw were either like ~1" or 2 or 3. I'd then have to bust out the grinder and I'd be back at square one. I appreciate the menu diving man - that site can be easy to navigate or kind of sketchy (like when I'm on my phone).

They don't have any product (that I found on their site) that had the 1/2" ID and a 1.5" OD and I called and asked if they would drill a hole in some 3/16" end caps, but they said no-can-do.

Steve said he'd just sell me the weld washers he had made for various stuff that were used in his parts I'm copying and include some saw cut tube lengths for free. I appreciate your guys' help - I'm sure I could have hand made this stuff like those bungs I made for the push bar. I just want to start from straight and square parts since I'll be spending a lot of time removing or temporarily relocating things like fuel lines etc for when it's time to install this thing.

 

Ah shit the ruff stuff washers are 1.25 bummer...well if I want on shift at work I could turn ya some caps

 

Having a bolt hole dead-center is what is tricky for me with what I have to work with (again could be done but would take at least 1.5 hours to make 4 acceptable ones I'm guessing) so if that's not a huge deal for your tools you have then I'd probably take you up on it. I'm waiting to hear whether he can throw in some mounting tabs and if it's not worth the cost vs. just going to a local spot to buy them, I'll let you know. Thank you Travis. That is really cool of you

This will hopefully finish the major mod stuff for now until there's another thing order with some 3.5" tube in it in a little while

 

This. This is how all of us dude it prior to owning cnc tables. If your 1/4” pilot bit is straight it will automatically make your center hole centered within the part. I keep most of the scrap center pieces when hole sawing plate for exactly what you’re looking for.

 

Yea I got a lathe in my garage lol

 

My bad big time - totally missed the part that you were suggesting a hole saw with the pilot bit - forgot about those since my 1.75 hole saw w/o one for my notcher is all I use as far as hole saws go. Good suggestion, I totally spaced it. I guess it all worked out - Steve is giving me a good deal on stepped weld washers, hardware, shock mounts, and adding squared up lengths of tube for free (again something totally doable with my grinder, just saving time).

Appreciate the advice dudes

 

My new mud flap configuration works perfectly. My old mud flaps needed updating. I used some remaining ABS sheet that I had when I made my fender liners and made a hard section that contours the fender and then I got some 1/8" EPDM rubber sheet from a local gasket supplier.

Without my mud flaps, my truck gets plastered with Mud as shown in this first pic.

 

While this obviously improves how long it takes to clean the post-mud truck, it just doesn't quite have that 'gram look anymore

 

HAHA. I gotta keep her clean, to hopefully have her last another 10+ years. I think im going to finish the bed liner on the rest of the truck. The Line-x dealer that originally did it, sprayed color matched paint over Line-x. I thought they were mixing the color in when they mixed the 2-parts for the line-x. So, I have spots that are Silver and a dark grey.. I will either do it with line-x again (not color matched) or maybe monstaliner.

 

Look into raptorliner unless you've already done that. I plan on doing mine in that once it's "complete".