gen2 250k+ mile V6 TACOMA thread----> oil type/change interval. I'm about to cross 340k folks

And you called me dumb for 12,500 mile oci! Lol

 

I wonder about sludge?
awesome that he does this, I could never wait that long on my taco though

 

do you ever top of oil (burn any oil) during the 36000 mile interval

I am adjusting the poll, so you can accurately state your interval

 

If true that’s incredible. Oil companies are ripping us off.

 

really though, makes me wonder

 

There are just SO many variables though... A vehicle driven lots of highway miles can usually handle a really long OCI - way longer than the OEM recommendation. A vehicle driven lots of short trips with the engine never getting to operating temperature probably should change before the OEM interval. Naturally the manufacturer and the oil company are going to recommend something conservative that will be safe for almost all use cases. They don't need to be trying to rip people off to recommend an OCI at the lower end of the spectrum. (Though of course places like Jiffy Lube telling everyone to come in every 3000 miles are).

And of course there are some oil companies telling people to go with very long OCIs. Mobil 1 AP is designed and tested for a 20,000 mile OCI. They even claim to warranty your engine at that OCI...

 

the mobil1 5w-30 synth oil I use says 15k protection (just bought a jug for sunday at wackymart for $25)
but I would never go that long
I like my 5k OCI & plan to stick to it until 500k

 

Don't miss out on the $12 rebate on that Mobil1.

 

Missed out on a few replies. Damn job really gets in the way of my work...
I use Amsoil exclusively. I have since 1979 in all of my vehicles (USAA says it's been 30 so far. 2017 Taco is #30.). I changed my filter halfway through the life of the oil (12.5 on 25k oci, now 18k on 36k loci). Always Amsoil filters. A quart of oil gets added at every filter change, no top-ups required otherwise. I have used the oil analysts labs in the past but am not currently. They ALWAYS came back with "Good for continued service". The oil just never wears out and my engine is mechanically sound. Almost all are highway miles (such as a 20 mile (oneway) commute, a 30 mi ow for a bit, etc.). I've had cars go 280k, 250k, and less but all were still running great when I sold or traded them. The 280k was diesel. The 250k was a rotary engine. Both had years of high speed cross-Texas travel.
I worked with a chemical engineer once and I asked him about Mobile 1 and Amsoil each claiming 25k between oil changes, yet they are totally different chemical compositions (a polyalphaolfin vs a dibasic acid ester). He agreed both could go the distance, but pointed out that the db ester has a double-bond between molecules where the poly had a single. So, the double was tougher and became his choice of preference - that was Amsoil.
It isn't that synthetics are "so good", but truly it's that petroleum oil is "so frikkin bad"! In a quart of dino oil, half of it is oil; the other half is additives. Those additives burn off, boil off, get consumed, and are gone within 3-5k miles. Hence the need to change the oil. Synthetics do not suffer those faults (as fast). The beauty of syn is that it can be built molecule-by-molecule to include the properties that the dino oil additives were required to compensate for. An obvious point is the Noack Volatility Test (oil is weighed, heated at a certain temp for a specified time, and weighed again. The oil will weigh less afterward due to the boil off & vaporizing of the additive package.). No U.S. petroleum oil was acceptable for use in Europe for this very reason. Synthetics don't lose their properties and do NOT require such frequent changes. The top-up qt at filter change replenishes what might have been consumed up to that point.
Synthetics do NOT create sludge! They will actually clean it if there was some left over from using dino oil. Before Amsoil I had a '66 Mustang which I overhauled at 100k. I was not the orig owner and I used QuakerState then (both bad). I also did oil changes every 3k. And still, when I dropped the oil pan (for the ovrhl) I -literally- bounced (like a rubber ball) the 1" thick block of sludge found at the bottom of that pan. That opened my eyes to lubrication products!
Turbine engines run HOT and they do so in -65*F environment. They can only do that because of synthetic oil. It goes the distance.

 

I just looked at my maint records. There have been 8 oil changes with 14 filter changes (not counting the filter with each oil change). It was a quick scan, so I could have missed one or two (of each).

 

You are right, except the signature line is warrantied for 36k. Both do say 1 year however. After all of my lab results came back so good, I decided that I was going to ignore the calendar marker and go by actual miles. I didn't have any OEM warranty by this point anyway. Never regretted it.

 

321k miles and I do my oil every 7.5k

 

Dude! This is an issue with the transmission and Toyota developed a new documented fill procedure, overfilling the tranny to get more pressure. I had the issue and the dealer fixed it by doing that.

 

Nice on the mileage... how often do you fill your tires

 

Got rid of TPMS sensors years ago lol

 

My OCI is 5k because I hate having idiot lights lit on in the dash!

 

I definitely voted on accident when I only have 130k miles

 

'06 DCSB 4X4 4.0/ 6 speed... 265,000+... always change the oil around 5,000 miles... I have always used Castrol 5w30 and Purolator filters (L10241 IIRC)...

-Bear

 

poll voting with less than 250k is fine
responding to the post with less than 250k
(as far as mileage, OCI, & oil type/filter)
takes away from the purpose (hi mileage OCI) which you didnt do, thanks!
thanks for joining the thread

 

yup