OEM Audio + vs Crutchfield cart build

Head unit makes the greatest difference out of all the first choices for the stock system. DSP, additional power, time alignment,etc. It also allows you the opportunity to learn some wiring.

Replacing speakers before a head unit or amp/dsp is really pointless, unless you plan to add those shortly there after.

 

I originally had JL C-1 speakers but upgraded to the C-2’s because I found a great deal on them.

This is a writeup I did on the C-1’s, but it’s the same for any component speaker really.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/installing-component-speakers.578705/

 

I agree, I replaced my speakers before my headunit and didn’t notice too much of a difference. After replacing the headunit, I noticed a massive improvement in the speakers, especially with the ability to fine tune them with the EQ settings.

 

I went the OEM Audio + route. Install was extremely simple. No splicing, everything is plug and play connections. The kit is built and tuned to the vehicle, so there is no guesswork (tuning even accounts for cloth or leather). I've been installing aftermarket units for decades, and I wanted everything to look stock this time, maintaining the Entune head unit. Sound is considerably better than the stock sound. Volume output is adequate for a daily driver ..... momma still asks me when I'm gonna grow up and turn that damn thing down ......

 

Not if you want to hang onto the factory head, and as integrated as they are in some vehicles, I don’t fault anyone for doing so. Also handy for a stealth install.

 

True, that is the caveat.

I kept mine as long as I could, I actually had the whole system built with it still in place. Used a LOC to wire it to the amp, the LOC had a 7 channel EQ in it. Eventually I said oh well, lets do it and bought the Kenwood. It had Waze and Carplay so I didnt lose Nav, in fact its a bit better than stock. The thing that surprised me, although I knew it was there, was how much the stock unit attenuates power at higher volumes to certain frequencies. Not only did the Kenwood sound better because of the DSP and expanded EQ tuning, the bass was so much better and it kept increasing with the volume knob. Stock unit peaks at ~20 on volume setting, then high freq. comes on with a more progressive curve.

The only thing I lost from stock was the ability to see the song playing on the dash menu by the tach.

 

Yeah, I’ve done the full system before. If I’d had the motivation my next step was to pull the ported box and build a false floor in the hatch with a custom designed 6th order bandpass. But, the car had way too many miles on it and I needed a truck.

Problem now is I don’t really want to yank everything out and sacrifice a bunch of space. I’m thinking replace speakers, throw an Image Dynamics 8” in a sealed box behind the seat, and leave it alone.

Car audio is a rabbit hole. You always end up wanting, bigger, better, more power.

 

Yes I would like keep the head unit and keep the stock look. I suppose I can upgrade later once I get a good speaker, amp , sub upgrade

Leaning towards the audio + kit. With no knowledge on how to do AV, this will be the easiest install to get the best sound.

 

A better head unit allows for more power and audio equalizing control?

Or what is the purpose of the head unit. I like the stock look and have the entune. I don’t have Nav in my system. Wasn’t thinking about changing it but if it makes a big difference I might. If I get the audio + can I get a head after ? If so what would you recommend?

 

I have the Sony XAV5000, it has apple carplay and has a small built in amp. They allow for easier modifications of the sound system due to RCA outputs

 

Will that work with the audio +?

 

Not without modification. I wouldn’t recommend it for a novice to electronic work.

The OEM + is not a bad choice if you want easy and to keep the stock head unit. I think it’s a better choice for most people because it’s an easy approach that will please almost everyone. Only the super critical people like myself, lol, would see issue with it.

As far as a head unit, it alone won’t be better than the OEM kit. You’d still need an amp and comparable speakers, bringing the cost to almost as much depending on your choices. Even then, the ORM kit will be easier to hookup.

 

That makes a lot of sense. I feel like the price point on the oem + is juuuuust above the threshold of a super fair value. Prob 200-300 above what you should be spending for the system. It does make it easy for a novice to get a full package and make it easy to install with less tuning. But I think it’s worth it for me.

You can definitely get better quality it seems like if you select each item and know how to install it. Just more work.

Think I’m gonna get the oem +

Appreciate all the info!!

 

This pretty well sums it up. You can do much better for the same coin IF you either already know what you're doing or are willing to invest the time to learn and DIY. Sounds like you don't fit either of these categories so the pre-built route may be the way to go. It's certainly a compromise in terms of end result but it will be an improvement over original equipment and will be easier than making all the components fit in a DIY scenario.

Another option, albeit a ton of work, is to do a full sound deadening treatment, including 'sealed' doors, and keep the factory system. You'll get more out of your factory system as it isn't working as hard and you aren't fighting as much noise and a more luxurious overall driving experience. But that involves removing your entire interior and several days of not so easy labor so again may not be for you. But it's a way to improve stock audio with a good bit less money...just one more option.

 

I think it would be reasonable to think about OEM+ as something you should have gotten from the factory if you spent the money on the Premium JBL system, and not an aftermarket premium system. In terms of value, if you consider what the factory premium system costs, the OEM+ is well worth the money and suitable for most owners.

If I was to get a new vehicle right now and I had no intention of installing a full retard system, I wouldn't think twice about getting the standard audio factory package and strapping on the OEM+ system, and I'm pretty sure I'd be satisfied with the value of the system. To get the JBL package you have to spend an extra $2900 to get the Premium package. That also includes leather and a moon roof and stuff you might not want. It certainly makes no sense to spend the money just for the JBL system since it's been generally disappointing.

 

I did think about doing the doors. Are you saying basically put dynamat on the entire interior ? What would you say that cost ?

 

You dont have to use dynamat on every sq. inch. Do some research into it and save yourself some money. The aluminum/butyl sheets like dynamat or noico are used to address vibration that occurs from the increased sound pressure. It will do nothing for actual sound cancellation, nor will closed cell foam. CCF and matting can be used to seal door opening which can help with mid bass from the door speakers. Mass loaded vinyl will the only thing that is typically used that will actually address sound cancellation. With that you will need some CCF to keep the MLV from rattling on the door.

Basically: metal/butyl (dynamat) for vibrations from low frequencies. CCF+MLV for sound deadening.

Read up here:
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

Like above, a full treatment consists of several materials and steps...far beyond just sticking on some dynamat. But if you have to get in your doors, it might not hurt to at least spread a bunch of dynamat or some other damper around. Most of the noise in my 1st gen was coming from the doors. I think the single most effective step was the neoprene I used for decoupling & thermal insulation. Cost? I think I have ~$150 in SDS damper in my 1st gen...I think? Total materials for the project - CLD, MLV, neoprene, butyl rope, etc was maybe a bit over $300. I'd expect a bit more for later models as they're bigger.

 

so i looked into the link and it has some great info! Is there a thread on tacomaworld with a solid video or detailed install on something similar with these material? searched for a bit but couldn't find one.

 

You can find stuff here for how to pull door panels and such, but almost everyone here only does the metal/rubber sheets. For the other stuff, either youtube or search sites for dedicated audio work, like DIYmobileaudio.com

Like this:
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/foru...rd-pro-tacoma-build-jt-audio-accessories.html