1st Gen A/C System Replacement How-To (Seized Compressor)

Ordered the UAC kit from Rock Auto. Will see how it goes.

 

I wouldn't say, specialist. Though I've done a number of system replacements over the years. I've collected the gauges and vacuum pump required to do the job. Its all in the tools and taking the time to deal with little details around everything else besides a compressor. A few years ago I had to replace the compressor and related parts on an F-150. It would have cost roughly $700 to get the job done at a shop. So I spent that on the parts and A/C service tools to do that first job. It was a good investment after that first tool purchase. I had to learn the hard way that parts store gauges are not so good.

The biggest problem that I've had over the years is with leaking Schrader valves that I get a parts stores. They seem to work for one time. I've learned to replace the Schrader valves when I have the system evacuated for some reason. It is not fun to see your perfect A/C service job land in the soup because a Schrader valve starts leaking just after the charge. I'll be seeking out some Toyota Schrader valves for this job. They may not be any different than the parts store products. But I will feel better about it.

If I find any type of contamination in the old compressor or line, it gets a new Denso evaporator.

There is a lot of good information on here about A/C system R and R.

 

Is it still cooling like you think it should?

Not saying this is for everybody, but roughly 5 years ago, I flushed the system and replaced the Schrader valves dryer, some o-rings and changed the compressor oil on my a couple of my Nissans. I know the compressors are getting old and do not pump like a new one after 220,000+ miles. Though they still cool great. I have this idea that if you change the dryer and compressor oil after 10 years, it heads off problems.

 

From the 2000 FSM page AC-4

INSPECT REFRIGERANT PRESSURE WITH MANIFOLD
GAUGE SET
This is a method in which the trouble is located by using a manifold
gauge set. Read the manifold gauge pressure when these
conditions are established.
Test conditions:
- Temperature at the air inlet with the switch set
at RECURC is 30 – 35 °C (86 – 95 °F)
- Engine running at 1500 rpm
- Blower speed control switch at ”HI” position
- Temperature control dial on ”COOL” position
HINT:
It should be noted that the gauge indications may vary slightly
due to ambient temperature conditions.

I use a chart like the one in this link.

http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart

Opinion: I think these A/C all-in-one DIY recharge kits have sent a lot of older compressors to an early grave. While they get the system working again, they come with a number of risks. They only monitor the low side. The users have no experience with A/C systems and the need for oil and what happens when getting atmospheric air into the system. I've noticed with charging older Calsonic systems, the high side will be too high while the low side is showing ok or a bit low. If you can't see the high side with your gauge, you have no idea what is happening. Then you overcharge the system. It either triggers the high-pressure switch to shut down the system on hot days from too much pressure and it will shorten the life of the compressor from being overcharged. For those older units, I'm more concerned with the high side number going too high than the low being too low.

The all-in-one kits are ok if you are just trying to recharge a system to make it through the summer knowing you will need some serious service sooner or later or to get the car ready to get rid of it.

Through the years, I've come to know some guys who work for some of the "big box" parts stores. From time to time they say to me "we work here and we won't even buy that stuff". You only use it when you are getting rid of the car.

 

The UAC kit worked out great. I flushed the evaporator and kept it along with the original expansion valve. Since there was no evidence of shrapnel or particles contaminating the system, I kept the work to "under the hood" components.

The only complaints so far are from passengers requesting that I turn up the temp from them being too cold. I had to check the temp this afternoon at 1 PM at 87F to see how things are working.

 

Was the is idle? With recirculation? In shade or sunlight?

Mine rarely gets to 40 unless it’s cloudy and I’m cruising. It’s usually around 45 degrees. I think the black paint sucks up a lot of heat too.

 

At idle. Recirc was on. Fan next to high setting. In 1 PM CT sunlight 87F. Truck color is gold.

 

I need to get mine flushed and refilled. I screwed something up.

 

Excellent write up op .
Got new clamp for line going to evap . In pic can see metal clip holding clamp together and on top 2 holes to access tool to push clip in to release clamp . I used electrical terminl tool to push in clip

Old clamp was still good but for $7 I just will replace

 

Thank you for this post, it was invaluable to my recent project.

 

Anyone have the part # for the oem Schrader valves?

 

Just to check in, it has been over a year and the UAC kit is still going strong.

 

if I am only replacing the condenser, do I still need to put in oil?

 

Check 1st post .Explains how much for each component

 

how does one examine the evap core? thinking of doing what you did.

 

The first part of the thread has steps to remove and replace the evap core.

Here's a video on removing the evap core. I got lucky when I flushed the system and didn't find any contamination in the system from the old compressor that seized up. The old evap core is still working very well. I may pull the cover and clean it.

https://youtu.be/QAf5QFtG6TU

 

This kit you linked,
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9821436&cc=1357589&jsn=381

are all the ac components the same, 2.4, 2.7, 3.4? Going to order soon.

 

Further research suggests its not... I'm kinda stumped.

 

@CS_AR

 

Not all the same. I see a different Kit part number for the 2.4 and 2.7. Be sure to select your year model and engine size to get the correct kit.

Use the Rock Auto Discount code from the vendor section for 5% off.