What smalls do I need to swap a new longblock?

Interesting, I know Toyota puts date codes on some of their electrical parts like the spark plug wire too are dated. My spark plug cables are dated and the knock sensors too. I remember seeing the date codes that were showing they were made
less than 6 months when I installed them and thought that was cool.
I don’t know how consistent they are tho

 

I ought to pick up another set of those to keep on hand in the event I restore a 4Runner someday. I have a small parts department in my garage.

 

Haha, look to see if your cables are dated if they are OEM

 

They are good and have been installed. Of course they'd been wrapped and insulated to run with an engine from hell.

 

Nice to look for. Most everything on this build except the timing kit, MAF and KS came from a Toyota dealership. I'll start collecting for the next build so I have 80% of the refresh parts in stock before I start. There are some economies of scale that kick in when you have two or more vehicles from the same make and series and know where to find parts deals.

 

@dankgus , I purchased a complete Aisin water pump/timing belt kit with idler pulley's from Part Geek. I had my mechanic put the old parts in a box for me. They matched perfectly with the originals that were replaced. Very pleased with it. check them out.

 

Thank you to everybody who has helped me along so far.

I started in on this project on Wednesday and I've put in a few hours each day. The 4th of July I couldn't put much work in. It's going well. Slow, but everything is going as planned so far. I can see why purchasing a used JDM 5VZ-FE is a great option. I do not yet regret my decision to buy a rebuilt engine, but I am definitely seeing all of the cost advantages as well as the advantage of knowing you have a Toyota factory assembled engine.

We have so far removed the hood, battery, oil, coolant, radiator, wiring harness disconnected and laid to the side, intake removed, fuel rails removed, AC belt and power steering belt removed. Tomorrow we'll work on getting the AC compressor and power steering unbolted. Maybe even have the old engine out if things go smoothly. I should say, I am working with the most absolute basic set of hand tools on this project. If I can get this done, anybody can get this done.

I've taken a ton pictures, and labeled a few things, but honestly this is kind of like taking apart a laptop - I can label all day but the reality is that things really only fit back together the way they came apart. I kept a few bags of screws labeled so I know what components they are for. The pictures I have taken are comforting.

A couple of things I need to get figured out. Keep in mind I am no mechanic, I am almost ashamed to ask sometimes.

1. Where can I get the fuel injectors serviced? It has been recommended to me that I do that, and honestly they look like they could use it.
2. When it comes to replacing hoses, everything looks factory formed. If I wanted to replace some of these hoses is there a way to form new hose to nicely bend like the factory pieces?
3. Any tips on cleaning the cast aluminum parts like the intake manifold? When we are done I want this thing to shine.
4. Is there an easy resource for recommended torque values? The fuel rail torque is what first reminded me. Is there a general value I should be shooting for when torquing bolts into aluminum parts on these engines?
5. Is there a specific torque for the banjo bolts on the fuel rail? I really had to crank on one of the banjos to remove it, it made me a little nervous I could see some flex on the fuel rail.
6. Is YotaShop good to go for parts? I don't think they were on the list of recommended parts sources previously in this thread, but damn they make it easy to find parts. I have not ordered anything yet, I figure once I have the engine out I will finish my list and place an order.

THANKS AGAIN!

 

[QUOTE="dankgus, post: 21015198, member: 296543"

1. Where can I get the fuel injectors serviced? It has been recommended to me that I do that, and honestly they look like they could use it.

You'll avoid future problems by getting the injectors serviced. I've seen members in CA reference RC Injectors at https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/Store/c/fuel-injector-cleaning. I think they specialize in Toyota. I've used Deatschwerks in OKC. Injector cleaning and refurbishment is not rocket science. Find a place close to that you like.

2. When it comes to replacing hoses, everything looks factory formed. If I wanted to replace some of these hoses is there a way to form new hose to nicely bend like the factory pieces?

You should be able to get a vacuum and fuel hose diagram for your year model and VIN from Camelback Toyota Online Parts in Phoenix. Since we all buy OEM at a discount, for the special curved hoses, it just goes better to go with OEM.

3. Any tips on cleaning the cast aluminum parts like the intake manifold? When we are done I want this thing to shine.

That's a multistage process that I start with a gallon of Berryman Chemtool or similar. I used four gallons on the 3.4 project in a big plastic tub like a washing vat. Then follow it up with brake parts cleaner. I used two cases of brake parts cleaner from Walmart for the entire project. Lots of scrubbing brushing with wire and detail brushes. If you really want to bring up the luster after you are done with all of the strong chemicals, you can polish it off using toothpaste. Crazy but it makes sand cast aluminum bright.



After that, I used a clear acrylic from POR-15 clear for metal. Eastwood Diamond Clear is advertised to do the same thing. Its a slow process for preparing metal and sealing it properly.

4. Is there an easy resource for recommended torque values? The fuel rail torque is what first reminded me. Is there a general value I should be shooting for when torquing bolts into aluminum parts on these engines?

I used this torque value sheet to save time. 5. Is there a specific torque for the banjo bolts on the fuel rail? I really had to crank on one of the banjos to remove it, it made me a little nervous I could see some flex on the fuel rail.

Should be in the above-listed sheet. Don't even think about torquing the injector rail banjo bolts without new crush washers. They call them gaskets.

6. Is YotaShop good to go for parts? I don't think they were on the list of recommended parts sources previously in this thread, but damn they make it easy to find parts. I have not ordered anything yet, I figure once I have the engine out I will finish my list and place an order.

Other members should be able to help there.

 

That’s a great torque specs page.
You should make that a sticky page.

 

I’ve reused washers on the fuel rail and don’t have any fuel leaks. Some items like camshaft seals, front main seal, and the throttle body gasket don’t usually need to be replaced before something else (ahem head cracks) goes on the engine but all up to you.

If I were you I’d make sure to do a leak down test on the long block before you do anything. Also rather than buying factory formed hoses for everything you can buy lengths of silicone, fuel, or vacuum hoses. Only the coolant hoses and a few in the IAC vent hose assembly are so twisty that it helps to have oem.

I scrubbed the heck out of the valve covers and intake and even wiped the oil residue out of the intake ports in the head. Looking back I would have just painted the intake with a good paint than try to get them perfect - I did my valve covers in Rustoleum hammered tones silver. Steel-it is more expensive product but a little more durable than regular spray paint - not completely scratch proof but still better. Seymour 316 Stainless is similar but not as good - it can overspray a bit. I painted my throttle body and my power steering reservoir after it got modified by a friend to help fit some stuff in the engine bay. I also replaced the ridiculously easy to strip Philips head screws in the throttle body with Allen head socket cap screws. Looking back I would have gotten corrosion resistant ones which I probably will eventually as there’s some surface rust forming on them but not a huge worry since I’m in Southern California not the north east.



@Timmah! and friends have a few awesome videos to help you in a few of these jobs

 

Today was not as productive as I would have liked.

I removed the power steering pump, AC compressor (both tied off to the side/front), removed the starter, disconnected the exhaust at the junction just before the O2 sensor.

I had quite a time getting the AC compressor removed. The last bolt required a random length of sockets/adapters to allow me access and I almost rounded off the bolt! Damn 12 point sockets are the worst, I had to buy some 6 point sockets to ensure I didn't ruin anything else.

The exhaust was almost trouble, I had to hit it hard with an impact driver. I completely rounded off 1 of the nuts but it came off. 2 of the studs remained. They were a weird setup, the studs seemed to have a male torx-like head, with a standard 14mm nut on them.

Following somebody's write-up on the 5vz-fe removal, I'm at the point of removing an access panel on the bottom of the bell housing. Here is where I gave up for the day (part way through removing the access panel) I got the 2 passenger side 12mm bolts out using a super long extension and an angled adapter. The 2 on the driver side are super difficult to access. If I had a longer flat 12mm wrench I think I could get them but it's a tricky location. Can anybody verify, the reason to open this access panel is so I can disconnect the flywheel from the transmission, so that I can leave the transmission in the truck? I am not excited about this particular process. Any tips? It just looks like a really awkward spot to access and there is a significant amount of work to do inside the bell housing.

Thanks!

 

Yes. I removed the access panel to remove the engine. You'll need it off when you get into aligning the flex plate holes with the torque converter. I ordered new crankshaft bolts (front and rear) and the flex plate to torque converter bolts. There is a black bolt that is of key importance and should be the first bolt during installation. when aligning the flexplate with the torque converter.

 

Today I learned what a flexplate is! (I googled it after reading your post).

Do I need to pay any attention to the black bolt during disassembly? I keep reading vague references to the black bolt but I've not found an explanation for the importance of the black bolt or the procedure to be followed.

I really appreciate the assistance!

 

If the flexplate is not properly aligned with the torque converter as it is bolted up you run the risk of the flex plate breaking at some point. I've seen enough posts about broken flex plates to know this is a concern.

Do you know how to clock a torque converter?

Here's a video about the black bolt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O80aTszV3hc

 

Watch the video on trans removal I posted.

 

I do not know how to clock a torque converter, yet...

That video was great! I can see the reason the black bolt goes first, it's size just beyond the threads forces the flex plate to align properly. Is there a special hole in the flex plate for the black bolt or are all the holes the same? I'll probably have my son rotate the engine until I see the black bolt, then use something to mark both the flex plate and the torque converter - just to be sure they everything goes back in just as it came off.

 

Check out the video about clocking the torque converter while I get a couple of pictures about the flex plate. It literally went exactly like this video.

https://youtu.be/g3wcwAdkdK4

 

Ha! That's the one video I overlooked! The other videos were easy to see the titles and they focused on topics I have not come to yet (I have trouble looking ahead too far).

I'll watch the whole transmission video tonight!

 

I clocked the torque converter the day before I installed the engine. It was done way in advance. So I've used a slim piece of metal to hold the clock position while I install an engine. I had this piece of metal that I used for that purpose. It would have been easier with a smooth piece of metal. This needs to be easy to slide out once the engine and the torque converter connect. It's a bitch to lose the outer torque converter clock position when installing an engine. It's like pull the engine out and start over to get the clock position set.

Note that I was working alone on this engine installation so I had to take some extra steps because I didn't have an extra hand.

Notice how I have one of the torque converter bolt holes aligned with the slot in the bottom of the bell housing? I used that as a reference for the 6 o'clock position that I set up on the flex plate. This may be different on a 4WD.



Before I dropped in the engine, I set a flex plate bolt to also be at the 6-o'clock position as you can see in the picture. That made aligning the flexplate with the torque converter and setting the black bolt easy.