Truck shuddering at idle and acceleration

I got it from eBay but I bought a new one for $20, figured I would be more comfortable knowing it shouldn't be defective. If all else fails my truck will have a new MAF sensor.
Called a mechanic, $105 an hour to diagnose then another couple hours to replace plus parts.

 

Thank you for this info. I will bust out my voltmeter this weekend, I don't have a vacuum pump though.

 

Anyone have any experience with clogged catalytic converters? Symptoms do match and there is a "newer" cat on there right now which tells me it had problems before. Im going to see if my local auto store has a pressure gauge to test it

 

BlueDriver... it is my GOTO tool, quick and easy and for under $100.

In looking at the data on the second log... at apx 14.4 seconds I see where the calculated load doubles with no real changes in the other items monitored. To be honest... I do not know how toyota "calculates the load". I have read that since there is no MAP sensor that the load is calculated based on MAF readings, throttle position and RPM.
BlueDriver has Mode 6 but it is all hexidecimal and you will have to find the PID's. When I emailed BlueDriver they forwarded to me Ford Ranger PIDS

 

No guarantee this is your problem but a few years ago, I had two (right and left) clogged front catalytic converters on a different V6. It would barely run if you could get it started. It was incredibly hard to start. The dealer said it was a bad engine and charged $700 in diagnostic fees. I had the car towed home. At that point, I was ready to have the car sent to the crusher if I couldn't find the problem. When I got the car home, I removed the O2 sensors (while leaving them connected to the wiring) that were located in front of the cats on the exhaust manifold so the engine could breathe. I had had a muffler collapse many years earlier on a different car and the symptoms were similar so I figured there was some type of exhaust restriction. Once I opened up the exhaust so the engine could breathe, it started up ran considerably better. It wasn't perfect, but it was better. The root cause for the cooked/clogged cats came from leaking injector o-rings that caused uncontrollable flooding. I guess too much fuel for too long roasted the cats. After fixing the flooding problem and the cats, it ran like a new car.

I am running a $17.99 MAF Part Number 22204-22010 OEM Genuine Mass Air Flow Meter MAF Sensor for Toyota Lexus Scion from eBay in my 99 model Tacoma.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22204-22010-OEM-Genuine-Mass-Air-Flow-Meter-MAF-Sensor-for-Toyota-Lexus-Scion/264206881320?_trkparms=aid%3D111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160727114228&meid=2f888e6edd21418892c67bfe6d5de093&pid=100290&rk=1&rkt=4&mehot=ag&sd=264206881320&itm=264206881320&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

Here's how it runs.

https://youtu.be/14VqqPiTlTc

 

$20 a new one???? If you don't mind. send me item number if seller has more to sell

 

The part number you have is the Chinese version. Same one I bought off ebay and a year later it gave my truck issues and throwing codes. I called dealership and ask them the part number on the MAF they have. He said,

$158 22204-21010 Internal Air Flow Meter

22204-21010 and i asked about the other number. Said he sees nothing for that number. If you don't have issues great. I was pulling my hair out trying to get mine figured out. Finally, after learning the different numbers, I went on ebay and bought a real used denso 22204-21010 and the truck runs like a top and p0171 gone.

 

Thanks for the info. My old MAF was in good working order. I like to keep a good working MAF in stock should one fail. I installed the new one and stocked the original. If I see anything abnormal, then I can fall back to a known working version.

 

This may be part of the part number mystery. I searched the McGeorge Toyota site and found

$102 22204-22010 Intake Meter Sub-Assembly

22204-22010 is for later model and other Toyota vehicles.

• SKU:22204-22010

• Other Names:Air Mass Sensor, Breather, Meter Sub-Assembly Inta
• Description:
  Highlander Hybrid. Without Solara. Tundra, Sequoia. FJ Cruiser. Corolla. Sienna. Matrix. Tacoma. Celica. Camry. Prius. Yaris. Echo. RAV4. MR2. XA. XB. 2.4l. 2007-09. 3.0 & 3.3L. 4-runner. 3.0l, 3.3l. Usa built. 6 cylinder. 4.0L, 2007-10. 1.8L without xrs.
  
  
• Replaces:22204-0C020, 22204-0D030

Search engines seem to be substituting

$158 22204-21010 Internal Air Flow Meter

22204-21010 with 22204-22010

 

Interesting. Well, it worked in mine for about a year. Then, I started getting the p0171 code. I figured fuel pump was going out or clogged injectors. First, I did a fuel rail pressure test and that was good. So, fuel pump was fine. I was about to just buy new injectors and I came upon a post on here about checking fuel trims with a p0171 code with scan tool. My trims were out of whack on the negative side. High positives point toward vacuum leak. Vacuum was solid. If I can remember correctly? High negative trims lead to cleaning or replacing MAF as a possible fix.

I forgot to mention, I also had a p0136. Exhaust was original and in bad shape. Bought a catback system and new air/fuel sensor which I replaced years ago with a Bosch! Bad choice!!! So, new Denso air /fuel sensor & new Denso o2 sensor coupled with the used

$158 22204-21010 Internal Air Flow Meter

22204-21010 off ebay. The truck runs like it did brand new off the lot.

 

Good info for sure. I just refreshed my O2 sensors with Denso's from Rock Auto. I don't like to run O2 sensors into the ground. They get lazy.

 

Send me the VIN in PM I will look up the part number exactly for you.

 

Thanks. Though I looked it up and found 22204-21010. That's the right number for my 99. It looks like the search engine returned a list of

$102 22204-22010 Intake Meter Sub-Assembly

22204-22010 when I googled "

$158 Toyota 22204-21010 Internal Air Flow Meter

Toyota 22204-21010" and I didn't know the difference at the time. Some of the sellers model look ups show the part as being good for a 99 model which is not really correct. I've had cases on other brands where earlier parts are replaced with a later number part with a close but higher number part. Then the after market vendors come out with a "one size fits all" part that works ok for some years and not so ok for others.

 

WOW! How many miles on that engine? Clean, new looking. Kinda like the red valve covers. And no rust on the frame! I see your from "Arkansas". Here in Pa, you wont find the frame looking like that. I still have the original frame and its still solid in the problem areas.

 

Thank you! The engine is from a 70,000 mile wrecked 4Runner from Orlando FL. From living there, it looked like a typical FL retiree car. I'm in Arkansas. The truck lived around Tyler Texas. I just finished the engine and mid-life refresh a couple of weeks ago. The valve covers were powder coated by a company that does Farm Implements. I think it is Massey Ferguson red. Looks Toyota aye.. I started removing the little bit of surface rust rust and restoring with Rust Oleum self etching primer and Black Tractor Implement paint. I'll finish up the frame sand blasting and restoration in late September/October when the weather cools and I don't fog up the blasting mask from the heat.

 

LOL! I guess I really don't know my state abbreviations? Well, Arkansas works too I guess. Anyway, looks great Craig!!

 

Thanks Dennis!

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22204-2101...281801132937?epid=1939492826&_trkparms=ispr=1

 

If there is a benefit about having this very annoying problem is that I am learning a bit more about these trucks. I know the 2nd gens inside and out but still relatively new to the 1st.
Anyways I may be going down the right path (or a rabbit hole) with the exhaust. I watched a video on trying to tell if a cat has gone bad. One was saying to watch the 02 sensor voltage while holding steady with about 2k rpms. I am at work the next few days and don't have time to work on it so I decided to turn on my scanner on the drive to work. My secondary O2 sensor is bouncing between .6 and .1 volts. I was reading that the secondary should stay around .5 volts. My primary was holding steady at 3.3 volts, I read that this one should bounce back and forth between a low and high voltage.

I could be totally wrong here but hopefully I'm onto something. I attached the Blue driver report so if anyone is more savvy with this stuff than I am they can give me their opinion.
Here is what I found on another site regarding a RAV4 but with the same question I have
"The readings for the front the sensor 1, sensors look normal. These are air-fuel ratio sensors not standard oxygen sensors. The 3.3 volts is a PCM generated representative voltage. It is not the actual output reading. That would be in milliamps. It will stay relatively steady as long as the mixture does not change rapidly.

The rear sensors are standard oxygen sensors. These readings, with the swings up and down from .2 to .8 volts, are indicative of failed catalysts. Good catalysts would be showing steady voltage readings."


I just find it strange there is no CEL on

 

Anyone have any theories on why it would stutter while stopped in D or R and not in neutral? Doesn’t feel like the tranny is slipping at all.