UBJ Blown and outer tire wear. OME 881 & 5100. What gives? (Was Front End & Brake Conundrum.)

edited my post. Have you had it aligned since converting to 4wd?

 

The e-brake is all mechanical, cables and levers. Checking it does not rule out the rear hydraulics, like a sticking/binding wheel cylinder.
Unequal braking at the front will induce "more" of a pull felt at the steering than at the rear.
Definitely eliminate alignment, any change in ride height (your new coils and shocks) will change alignment.
The flip flop nature of the pull might indicate some missed play in the steering with or without an alignment issue.

Just thoughts.

 

You already tightened the rack with new bushings and tie rods, if it’s not the master after rebuilding, then you might be a great candidate for the steering tack weld mod. The steering can get sloppy from years of wheeling and it could be the shaft that telescopes getting bound but, my money is on the MC.

 

Check for any hard turns/pinch points in your new brake lines? If you look at the alignment sheet make sure the rear wheels are within spec. They can be off due to the axle shifting a tad on the spring perches if you have done any work in the rear.

 

Yes. I did not though after installing the 881's and 51000's up front but the problem was there before that.

@Dirty Pool Thank you. I have not replaced the steering rack. I do have a rebuilt one but wanted to avoid that job if i could. Understand the rear brake line of thought. I can tell you that my rear brakes are in need of adjustment and that i have never taken them apart so it is still in the running as part of the problem.

@Luv my yota thanks. the MC rebuild is next. After that well...

@goldentaco03 thank you. I will check the rear alignment data tonight and for pinch points and report back when i post the last alignment results. I did replace the rear leaf springs with OME's about a year ago. Had it aligned after that and at least 3 times since as i did the 4WD conversion so i am pretty sure it is in spec but that would also speak to the Dog Track that @mechanicjon asked about.

Will post again tonight with more info.

 

His tail should be straight in theory if it didn’t sheer off the axle center pins which would be rediculous. Unless he unbolted it all and didn’t recenter the pins putting it together. At this point it would be a great for him to blow out all the hard and soft lines with air. His problem is uneven brake pressure. He had this issue previously with stock calipers so it has got to do with uneven pressure to ea caliper. If the axle was off he would crab walk one way not both, unless the pins broke and he’s got a pressure issue at the same time.

 

Please ignore my comment because I am a total amateur, but no one has suspected the Load Sensing Proportioning and Bypass Valve. If it's malfunctioning or maladjusted it seems it would affect the braking under load. Your stop test using the parking brake seems to rule out the rear drums being the issue, but that is a cable actuation of the drum brake instead of a hydraulic actuation. So that is my (untrained/inexperienced) guess as to what is causing the problem.

 

Dirty pool might be on to something there.
But the front tire scuffing still points to alignment issue.

 

@Luv my yota the rear pins were intact and i did not take apart the leaf spring pack if that is what you mean. Best to my memory all i did was remove the old and installing the new leaf pack and it was pretty straight forward with nothing really changing the pin interface. I have images at home i can confirm with unless i totally misunderstood. I would assume that a four wheel alignment would have looked at the rear axle and reported the results so when i get home i will check and confirm. Thank you again.

@Kiloyard thank you. I learned a long time ago not to ignore anyone. There is always something to gleam from any comment even if it is "i have already checked that". If nothing more you say thank you and move along. I have no idea what the sensor and valve is mentioned are so i have some learning to do to rule them out or find they are involved.

 

Yah you should be fine if it was aligned on a hunter machine.

 

Alignment data. Newest to oldest if it matters. Note that each states 4WD so they were keying in on the manual lock hubs as my VIN would not indicate this.

After inner and outer tie rod ends installed. April 24, 2019


After Steering rack bushing installed. April 21, 2019


After manual locking hubs installed. Dec 2018


@Luv my yota No idea what type of machine Pep Boys uses but it should be four wheel as they report front and rear.

FWIW here are the only two images from when i did the rear springs that show anything. I do not recall taking anything apart that would affect the pin alignment. Seems like the bolt/pin in the leaf pack fit into the hole in the rear axle and everything else mounted around that.

@goldentaco03 No pinching of the front brake lines.

Thinking about what @Dirty Pool commented regarding rear brakes. Is there an easy way to bypass or disconnect the rear brake line to temporary take them out of the circuit? It seems there may be some sort of cap available to test his theory rather than taking it apart and replacing parts. Possibly pinch a line but install it where?

Was not able to check today for crabbing or the "dog track".

@Kiloyard i learned what the Load Sensing Proportioning and Bypass Valve is and does. Learn something every day. Watched this video to learn. Will have to test this but it seams if my rear brakes are part of the problem then i would not get a pulling effect according to this video but i guess it could be partially working. Do not know how the valve works but then again i am still not totally sure i understand how a bad MC would pull like this either so....



That is all for tonight. I am very curious right now what you all think of my alignment and the fact that i am scuffing my wheels. That to me is key but i am not sure it is all that is wrong.

 

You’re right caster angle was close at first but still out by .1, but got subsequently worse as you went back with numbers out at 2.9. I could get it in spec but you aren’t here, it wouldn’t account for the pulling in both directions if at all. How new are the front shocks? They could be getting saggy springs. I’m still betting it’s the master cyl.

 

@Luv my yota . Front springs and shocks are 3 weeks old. 1000 miles on them. OME 881's and Bilsteen 5100 set to Zero. FWIW the rears are about 6 months old. Also 5100's. I did not get an alignment after i installed the front springs and shocks but the squealing was there before i did them even though i did not recognize the scuffing yet. I also did not think you needed an alignment after front springs/shocks but i recognize that your camber could change.

I pick up a Factory MC rebuild kit today and that is my task for this weekend. I will also get another alignment.

 

I’ll call up Pep Boys and find out the machine they use it’s probably a Hunter which is fine but... My Shop never used those we always did it old school with turntables over a dugout. I could get it perfect in my driveway but those machines they use don’t even require a human brain, and give a parameter not a precise setting which in the alignment world has changed the game because now all shops can get one and claim they do alignments. I am Old School if you want to macrowave a lasagna go ahead I say, but nothing beats the Old School ways of using a oven, and time, you’ll never get that quality from a machine giving printouts. I may seem like I am ranting but the US has started using these instead of an intelligent human making over 150k a year that specializes in this stuff. If you’re gonna go and keep getting alignment s because you are constantly changing stuff go to a Firestone and get a lifetime alignment so you can go back as often as needed, being as they replaced human techs with monkeys and computers.

 

You can always check alignment yourself.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-do-an-alignment-at-home.252256/

 

Thanks @Luv my yota . I actually have a lifetime at pepboys because i knew i would need 4 or 5 durring the process so i will stick with there monkeys or do it myself.

@mechanicjon thank you. I actually read that before my trip when i found the scuffing. Does not seem hard at all but boy i rather the pro i paid to do the job to do it right.

Are you guys of the opinion then that i have two issues? Meaning my alignment "scuffing" and the brake pull are different issues or could they be connected?

 

Alignment & brakes are married in a way, you can drive down a straight rode with no degree of slope to the right side of the road and let go of the steering wheel and stay straight for a predictable amt of time if the alignment is correct. The brakes can pull you left or right or in your case both, even with a perfect alignment. The brakes dragging can cause it to feel alignment is off too, usually caused by the calipers overheating but you should not have an issue with brakes @ the wheels as you’ve obviously swapped it all for tundra brakes and the issue persists. That silly Master Cylinder would have me on it, every thing points to it being sticky. Don’t bother the alignment for now the new shocks mainly effect camber not toe so much. I’m assuming you’re brakes are flushed enough that if the brakes are still doing this, it’s a issue with the master, no doubt.

 

I'm not familiar with the Tundra upgrade. Did you replace the rubber brake hoses going to the calipers? Maybe that was required, but I don't see it mentioned. A bad hose can cause all the issues your having.

 

Thank you @golfcarz I did replace the flexible lines. Front and rear.

 

Good new/bad news.

Master cylinder rebuild today went fine. Pretty straight forward job. Kit i used was 04493-04030. About $55.






Could not really see anything obviously worn other than black in the reservoir which could be a sign of rubber seal wear.

Once done I blead the brakes two times pumping almost an entire large bottle of Dot 3 through the system. When done the pull to the right is gone. Under hard braking the truck stays pretty straight.

The bad news is the truck will drift left and the steering wheel goes left about 1/16 to 1/8 a rotation. A drift more than a jerk. I am betting that is alignment and Pep Boys will get to do another alignment tomorrow.

@Luv my yota , @mechanicjon a few questions.

1. Lots of squishy noises coming from the MC and brake peddle area when we pump up the brakes before bleeding out the pressure. This is after bleeding the system twice. Is that normal?

2. Should the brake peddle be super solid at first or sort of soft for an inch and then build up solid?

3. When bleeding one corner (rear drivers) the fluid had a sort of light milky look to it like micro air. After bleeding that corner almost 20 times it still looked the same. Cant tell if it is from inside the brake system or the hose on the nipple was sucking air. Since the rear passenger did not do it it could be air but that much??? any advice?

4. Never taken the rear brakes apart but i know my pads are worn. How hard is that and can you do it w/o having to bleed the brakes?

Thank you for the continued help. I hope after an alignment tomorrow i can put this thread to bed.