The Lair

That seems like a Shit ton of work.

 

Yep. That’s why I’m chipping away at it over the course of a couple weeks. No sense in rushing the lcas since truck won’t be driveable until diffs are built.

 

You taking the axle tube off the front diff? Time to upgrade to the fj stub shaft and tube

 

I am, won’t fit in the bucket without it. And I have no desire to make that swap. What I have now seems to work great

 

Can be a weak link since the taco one is a 2 piece. I'll eventually swap them. Not concerned with the electrical side.

 

I just looked into what it actually involves and cost. Definitely something to keep in mind, but I'll likely do what anthony did and wait until I break mine to upgrade it. Seems simple enough with the diff still in the truck.

 

Yeah they aren't that bad. People do it for the electrical issues with the add. To me the big concern is the 2 piece stub shaft. Some other vehicles have issues with their version of that breaking. It'll be some I'll probably end up doing when I regear.

 

Just finished reading the whole thread. Looks like you have to have the FJ case in order for it to work properly. Otherwise your 4x4 system in the truck is confused as shit and won't function properly.

 

Happy 4th my fellow Americans.

 

All the bushings and sleeves are out of the lcas.

All the eyes are reinforced.

One has a built in skid plate and the holes welded shut. One more to go there.

Then it’s off to paint. Going to do the brush on enamel paint.

Then I’ll press the bushings in. I’m not going to buy a press for it. Honestly it looks like it won’t require much force at all so I’ll try skips idea and just hammer them in (with a proper sleeve to distribute force of course). If that doesn’t work I can use the press at the auto hobby shop on base.

 

That garage life eh!

 

It’s amazing!

 

Naw I've read a couple people who have tricked the computer with switches or something. I'll have to find it again. Most people do them with an FJ case. I'll look and see what I can find again. Hell I think someone was making some sort of ckt board for tricking the computer with an ADD delete.

 

Seems kinda counterintuitive. The point is to get rid of the electronic actuator, and by doing so it gets more complicated with wires and tricking the ecu.

To me it’d make the most sense to do both at once, in which case you don’t even need the 4x4 ecu. All manual engagement.

 

Yeah all manual engagement would be the best. The thing is if you "trick" the computer the electronics would be up and out of the elements. Even with that if you want to retain some of the factory electronic gizmos (we don't have them) then guys are having to still trick the computer with going full manual. My reasoning is getting rid of the 2 piece stub shaft. I have never had the issues with my electronics like some seem to have so it doesn't matter to me in that aspect.

 

Happy 4th of July Lair dwellers!

 

So I see you wrapped the edge of the lca where the bushing goes with pipe and gusseted it. The places I have seen them break is actually typically at the gap between the thick part of the lca, and the where the lca bushing goes. Maybe worth filling the gap to make it more connected to the main part of the LCA?

Just an idea.

 

So just lay another bead/add a gusset to connect the eye to the main body of the lca more? That’d be easy enough. Good tip.

 

Yup exactly,

 

This is so fucking overland, I literally can't even. A $50 Yeti dog bowl? Sign me up.

https://www.yeti.com/en_US/more-gear/boomer-8-dog-bowl/YB8DB.html