2002 Tacoma 88k Miles Rebuilt Title

I recently found a 2002 Tacoma with 88k miles MT. It has a rebuilt title though.

The seller says that they purchased from an auction and had it repaired. I attached photos of the truck pre repair and post. Apparently the driver hit a deer, but looks like it was more than a deer to me.

I haven’t looked at it yet in person but the seller swears that everything was replaced with original parts and no frame / engine damage.

Wondering what TW thoughts were on if this would be worth trying to purchase.

 

Frame pictures. Looks like it may have been painted over?

 

I wish my frame looked that good

 

It looks like they’ve coated it. I wonder if it would pass the hammer test.

 

You may be surprised. A lot of first gen owners consider painting their frame every few years as regular maintenance. I dont see any real bad flaking.

 

If it’s solid, runs well and priced right I’d buy that Bitch

 

It looks overall pretty good.

They’re asking $13,000

 

I need to go drive it and give it a good look over. The rebuilt title worry’s me but the mileage is low.

 

That would be fair if it wasnt rebuilt imo. Id inspect the frame real good than offer 10 if its good.

 

Also pay attention to rubber parts. My low mileage truck chewed up its dryrotted belts pretty quick. When stuff sits its gonna go bad a lot sooner.

 

I agree. I was going to try 9....

 

Every state is different to a degree about reconstructed titles.

If at any time a vehicle is totaled or sold for salvage and made street legal it gets a reconstructed title

I bought a Celica with a reconstructed title all that was wrong was the clutch Master Cylinder had failed

If every thing else checks out and your state does not have strange laws go for it

 

I’m getting some engine photos now. The timing belt has not been done but seller said they’d reduce price to compensate.

 

What all should I look for on the frame?

 

That frame looks like it's been repainted. You can see inside some of the factory frame holes that it looks really rusty in there, which is where the frames usually first begin to rot (inside out).

Of course what's normal to me and whats normal to someone that sees rust everyday are two very different things, but I would be checking that frame carefully before you buy it. Take a ball peen hammer to it and see if it crumbles (maybe ask the seller to do it lol). Where the leaf springs mount and where the rear shocks mount are some of the biggest problem areas usually.

 

9 tops and don’t be afraid to walk because either way you’re going to have to spend at least a few k which is why I’d start by offering 7k

 

Frame to motor mount. Rear leaf hangers at frame

 

Engine photos

 

Start at the rear and work your way alllll the way to the front bumper. Also look at the frame in the engine bay (mine has some rust there on top of the rails). Drop the skid plate and look under there. Scrape away any flaking and smack it with a hammer, use a long screwdriver if you need to reach into tight spots. Look into the factory holes the best you can, if its super orange, you need to walk. Inspect the rear shock mounts, rear leaf mount areas closely. Also by the catalytic converter (where 2nd gens love to rot).

 

Check with your insurance carrier. Many will not cover rebuilt/salvage. Just be sure.

Many lenders won't loan against a rebuilt/salvage. Even if you are paying cash, that fact is a clue.

Rebuilt/salvage will typically be worth (just because of the paper) about 1/2 of the street value it would have with a clear title. While not 'fair', that's the way the world works.

For example, you buy, your carrier insures, tomorrow you total. Your payout will hover in that 50% range.

Personally I have no issue with salvage titles with a few assumptions..............

I know what the cause of the salvage was. And it was fairly minor, just the age/value of the vehicle pushed it over the edge for insurance.

I know how it was repaired, either by watching as it was done or photo documentation.

My carrier will cover it.

It passes all other pre purchase inspections just like any other example. In this case, a good inspection would include at least a frame inspection (hammer, borescope) and a compression/leakdown test. And a suspension check, as in why is it so high in the rear. Could be simple.

If all that flys, an alignment shop that is very good at detecting frame an worn front end parts might be something to consider paying for an inspection (not an alignment). Work out a deal such that if it passes and you buy, your inspection cost will apply towards a full alignment.

Now if you know that you're ready to buy, it's time to get the price right.

The seller is fishing. Which is fine. And someone may well come along and take the bait. Doesn't mean it has to be you. Call your CU and ask what loan is on such a vehicle. That's what the real 'value' is. You can (and people will) pay more, but you don't want to pay a lot more and start off ownership with upside down equity.