Converting Sliding Rear Window to Power

Just did this mod yesterday.

Ordered the parts from Firgelli Automation:

FA-RMS-15-12-12) mini linear actuator
MB1 bracket (the only brackets that fit it)
MAN-RS2 rocker switch

$140 with shipping

Found a tin "Strong-Tie" at Lowes for about $1.50
Bought some metal screws to mount it
JB Weld (the handyman's friend)
Wire - 16 gauge (overkill for under 1A but sturdy enough)
Tap-a-fuse from Amazon ($7.99 with fuses)

First I bent the Strong-Tie as it was a bit too wide.

Then I painted the actuator and bracket hardware black.

Mounted the plate with the metal screws. Just screwed right into the rubber. Seems to be fairly sturdy.

Attached bracket with JB Weld

I thought about JB Weld on the window but that seems rather permanent so I wanted to try something else first. Got some 3M strips lying around which are working to hold up a dash cam in the other car. Will try this for now.

Mounted the actuator.

Wired the switch using the tap-a-fuse for power. The hardest part is finding a place for the rocker switch. The overhead console looked good but my bluetooth mic is there so that was out. The aux switch panel under the radio is really hard to get behind. I didn't want to take apart the entire dash just to get back there. So I opted for the easy way inside the center console. Still need to work on this some more.

Works great. Still a couple more things to think about.


First, the MB1 bracket is too tall to fit behind the seat where it sits on the slider window. I can't really latch the seat back or it will bind. I can think of two options. 1. Raise it up above the seat. This will make it visible which I don't really like. 2. 3D print a lower profile bracket. I can definitely make it shorter but I'm not sure I can make it short enough to ride behind the seat. Will figure that out down the line at some point.

For now, it's great to be able to open the window remotely, love the extra air flow!

Update 8/17/18
I really wanted the switch in the dashboard. Discovered it's easy to get access to the accessory switch panel from the front, no need to tear apart the dash. Just removed one of the blanks, used the Dremel to widen the hole a bit and shoved the switch in. Works perfectly!

 

Great write up @atatistcheff ! Seems like a nice addition to the truck that I might have to add to list! What do you do about the window lock that locks the passive window to the fixed window? Does that lock just not engage and the actuator holds it closed? I have a shell and now you got me thinking that I could double this setup and open the truck window and cab window at the same time! lol

 

I used a zip tie to hold the latch open. If you look closely at photos like the one below you can see it.

 

I noticed the catch point for the latch is a strip screwed to the frame. I'm wondering if removing it is how the operable window is replaced and what taking it off would do. Maybe allow the window to slide the other way instead.

 

Great write up! To lower the actuator perhaps you could make the mounting plate with a "L" bend and the end (far right) of it and mounting the MB1 on the vertical plane, which would put the pin (and entire actuator assembly) in a lower position.

Just ordered the parts for my 2016 Taco! Using the discount code "FA-AC-10" the total with shipping was $128.44.

 

This mod keeps getting pushed back but I'm still hoping to mount the air actuator above the headliner to eliminate any holes in the bottom channel for water to leak through.

 

How about another option of mounting the right (main body) mount to the window using Gorilla glue like the actuating arm mount on the sliding glass? Is there any reason why that wouldn't work or does the body require additional anchoring using screws and such?

 

Just completed this installation and it works great! Thanks OP for the write up!

The only modification I had to make was to one of the MB1 brackets. The one that mounts on the slider was too big and would not fit between the glass and back seat so I had to trim it a bit (I think this space is smaller on the 3rd gens). I cut the sides to be just under the diameter of the actuator slider, dremeled out the bottom of the bracket so that the slider would sit a little closer to the glass, and drilled new holes in it. I painted the brackets black and used HBA tape to mount them. I also wrapped (rather poorly) the actuator body with matte black vinyl so it can't be seen through the back window or from inside the cab.

I used the sustained switch, mounted to a blank under the left knee cubby and connected it to the hazard fuse so it can be opened/closed at any time without having to hold the button.

It is noisy, but for a buck and quarter and change it is a very easy and useful mod, especially for those with dogs!

 

nice install! Are those actuators still slow as hell? i read on their website it'd take like 45 seconds to open or close

 

11 seconds to fully open. It's not as fast as the windows, and is much louder (but not as loud as the previous model actuator), but the trade-off is worth the convenience!

Fingers crossed that the VHB tape holds as I really don't want to use adhesive on the windows.

 

sub'd for future install - thanks to all who have posted pictures of their install!

 

After a couple of weeks I want to report that this mod is awesome! I love the ability to simply crack open the back window a couple of inches to get some air flow into the truck (other than from the side windows). With the sunroof open it is a really nice reverse air flow (not blowing in my face).

 

Nice mod on the bracket. I was thinking of a 3D printed part but I'd have to have someone else print it. What did you use to cut down the bracket? Will the Dremel do this too?

 

I used an angle grinder with metal cutting wheel to cut mine down.

 

Can do this on single cab with 1 piece glass

 

I'm sure it's been covered by now, bit I'm not reading 11 pages .

This was an option on the first gen Tundras. So if you want an OEM set up maybe check a junkyard for a limited AC Tundra 05-06. Maybe earlier years and RC as well. Not sure

 

I went with the 2010 honda ridgeline route, everything tucks away cant see anything, also the whole job cost $110.
Been close to 2 yrs and haven't had any issues at all.
One thing to note though, make sure you disable the lock on your slider or damage will occur. Good luck to you guys.