Long Travel BS Thread

I remembered them posting about it for their +2 kit so I knew you had a +2. The stock sway bar wouldn’t work with anything except stock width and your uppers were obviously longer in that shot you posted.

Inevitably it’s tying your front travel up like having your shoe laces tied together and trying to walk. There will reach a point where one side affects the movement of the other and that will definitely happen during points where one side is articulating in opposition to the other.

Like you said though it’s removable and you could test out if you prefer it on or off. I haven’t reinstalled my away bar since I removed my +2 kit and notice an improvement in a few types of terrain.

 

This. Here's a little tid-bit for you. A lot of people here who consistently take their Tacomas off road are going to tell you that the sway bar is trash. And for offroad performance, it is. This is the LT thread, some of the most fabricated tacos on this site are in here. I'd be willing to bet a bit of coin to say that TC designed this "sway bar" for straight up-down travel. Because the whole principle of a sway or anti-roll bar doesn't limit travel at all, yours or a stock trucks. Sway bars limit articulation of the suspension to help keep the body level for cornering, and this rendition by TC is no different. In theory it works if both sides of the suspension are compressing or rebounding or if both wheels are rising and falling with the terrain at equal travel. But anywhere on the trail there's going to be a rock or a bump that's only going to hit your driver or passenger side, and with a swaybar, all that feedback from the bump is going to be transmitted through the sway to the frame and you the driver instead of being absorbed through the suspension. People act like a sway or anti-roll bar will prevent you from rolling your truck. No. If you're going to roll your truck, you're going to roll your truck. The center of gravity on these trucks is already too high for a sway bar to make a difference if the body is slightly more level.

No fucking way right.

 

So.... the real question is if you have an “IFS” truck but the suspension is connected together via a price of spring steel, do you REALLY have IFS???

 

What year Tundy rack do you start with so I can keep my eye open for one (or more)?

 

07...soo second gen tundra

 

I’ll get the cat out of the bag once it’s ready let it be a mystery

 

Lol Ok sorry, didn’t know it was top secret NASA suspension. We’re all here to learn and exchange useful information. Don’t worry, I’ll sign a NDA. I promise.

 

Lol the shitposting here is REAL

Looking forward to seeing some of those racks, I'd be interested.

 

Just curious where you got the Bed Net

 

I’m curious about the chain lol

 

And the chain?

 

lol saw all those tabs at the front of the bed and looked like a chain lol

 

What's up with those from your point of view - worth the money or just the same as 2x2 pods?

 

Hahaha no not at all I’m contemplating if I want to share since most response is not all that positive to say the least and I don’t need to feed all the haters with more things to throw useless BS around. Not referring to anyone specifically just a general observation from time spent on tw. But what the hell. Rear is archive 12 kings triple bypass hangers shock relocation king bumps and custom made sua

 

They could tell me yes. I for one like having an actual experience before drawing a line in sand otherwise a general knowledge isn’t supported by experience and it’s meaningless since one end user can make the final decision and state what they think is better for them after they’ve experienced whatever it is they are talking about. I do agree with you that in general it might be a waste but what if it’s not ?!

 

I'm still waiting for someone on here to do like SOLID REAR leaf spring hangars...use a dana44 snout and machine your own hub to hold the bearings and built your shackle off that....there would be zero binding no flex from the pivot....and cool as fuck...just sayin

 

I'm curious to hear your opinion once you drive it. Their thread about it has literally 0 responses. Doesn't sound like anyone has tried it. It is supposed to be a lighter rate than stock.

 

"be the change you wish to see in the world" - big MG

Nah I know you're linked.

 

Any thoughts regarding using a triple bypass shock vs a smoothie with RR on the rear leafs? Installing the Archive garage hangers & relocation kit with new Deavers. Consensus seems to be that the smoothies will be better for low speed shock absorption and the bypass better for high speed bumps/jumps. its my daily driver but do a fair amount of weekend wheeling or offroading. Have extended travel in the front but will eventually get LT after glass fenders installed. Usually do not carry a lot weight in the bed. Thanks.

 

@AccuTune Offroad was accurate when replying to the same question when you asked in the other thread:

"Bypasses are great for people spending time going fast in the whoops with a setup fairly consistent in weight.
Bypasses are position sensitive so they don't do great if you sag the suspension and put the piston in the wrong zone.

For general off-roading, running fire roads, and overlanding (weight change in bed) the smoothies with adjuster are a better fit.
They are much easier to adjust and have damping adjustments that better match slower moving vehicles.
The Fox's have a low speed adjustment (handling, bounciness, and g-outs) and a high speed adjustment (whoops)
Our most popular combo is the 2.5 Smoothies with Adjuster. We set them up with a street tune when the adjusters are open all the way.
If you add weight or want to drive more aggressively just turn the appropriate knob."