OME install issue

Hello fellow taco owners,

I'm installing a OME kit from Toytec on my 2000 TRD 4x4. The rear add a leaf and shocks went on great, but I'm having trouble getting the front shocks on. I paid for the coil install so that I could replace them myself, so I pulled the old shock, and put in the new one. Had to disconnect the CV bolts and sway bar, and loosen the control arm bolts to drop the control arm so the new shock would line up.

My isssue is, I can't for the life figure out how to reconnect the CV bolts - there is just way too much space. I tried jacking the control arm with no luck - still several inches to reconnect the CV joint and sway bar.

I'm new to working on my truck myself, so apologies if I haven't described this issue accurately. I've searched around a good bit on these forums for someone with this problem, can't find anything, so I think it's just me being a newbie.

 

Never undid as much as you have but if you haven't bothered with the other side, do this -

Put a thick piece of cardboard to protect the top of your wheel well and place your bottle jack on your upper control arm.

Jack up your bottle jack; this will force your upper control arm and spindle downward which will help you line up the bottom bolt.

Done.

 

When you say "CV Bolts" are you talking about the 4 lower ball joint bolts that hold the LBJ to the spindle (right below the CV boot?)

Can you post a pic so we can see exactly what you're dealing with?

 

^ this. gets some pics so that we can see just what you are mentioning. it may be simpler than you are seeing.


also, going forward you don't have to disconnect anything to get the coil-over/spring in. just use a small pry bar or bottle jack on the top control arm to push it down a little.

and if you took the CV out of the spindle, make sure you got a good torque wrench (317 ft/lbs if memory serves)

 

Thanks for the replies - here's some pics to clear it up.

I pulled the stock Bilstein, but the new OME shock wouldn't fit, especially since I got the spacer on top. So I removed these four bolts (2 pictured, 2 on the other side):


I still didn't have enough space to fit the shock, and I was wary of prying on anything too much, so I removed this, which I'm fairly sure is a sway bar:


I still didn't have enough room, so I marked the alignment cams in case I really threw the truck out of alignment, and I loosened the big bolts on the control arm. That was enough to bolt in the OME shock on the bottom.

The problem then was getting everything back together. The mount for the sway bar and the four bolt holes were so far away, like a few inches, that I couldn't figure out how to reconnect. So I put everything back together, knowing that I need an alignment now, but good enough so I can drive around town. Getting new tires after the suspension is done anyway. Now I am debating if I should have my usual mechanic put them in, but he's at least a week out.

Secondary question - should I install the diff drop kit? I've seen yesses and nos. I'm leaning yes, but I don't have an easy means to modify the skid plate if that is necessary, which I think I have seen in some posts/videos, though it wouldn't be too hard to get a hold of a dremel or grinder. Approx. 2" lift.

 

definitely disconnect the sway bar when putting these in, it will limit your motion as it's meant to balance the sides during cornering

those 4 bolts are the lower ball joint (LBJ) and you can leave those on. pry down on the upper control arm when you put the shocks in as that pushes the suspension to full droop.

you will need an alignment anyway as the increased height will require the cam bolts to get moved outward a little bit, also you need to remove the outer tie rod end (OTRE) (from the steering rack) as this will need adjusted for the new height due to range of motion increase (lift).

 

Loosen uca bolt 19mm it will go together like butter. Just don't forget to tighten after

 

As I stated, use a bottle jack to push down on your upper control arm. You'll push the shock down low enough to align with your lower control arm without ever undoing a single bolt outside of the 4 shock bolts (3 on top, 1 on bottom).

 

Thanks for the advice everyone, I did think that I was removing/messing with too much. I'll post a triumphant pic or a cry for help when I get some time to get in there again lol. So I should just ditch the sway bar altogether?

 

Depends what springs you are running. If you have 883s I would remove it. It's a bit soft if you have anything lighter unless you are a 4cyl

 

I think so, I've been running without my sway bar for almost 2 years and hardly notice it isn't there. Drive my truck everywhere everyday. As long as you're installing stiffer springs you'll be okay. Which OME springs did you get?

 

I got the 881s. Not planning on a winch or other bumper, seemed like that was the way to go

 

Hmm I'd probably keep the sway bar then, the 881s aren't much heavier duty than the stock springs...you'll probably get a lot of body roll without the sway bar.

881s are 500# springs if I recall, I would personally only take the sway bar off with 600# springs....also depends on weight you're carrying

 

Where are you located? Perhaps someone close would be willing to lend a hand.

Be sure when those LBJ bolts go back in, blue threadlocker + hand thread and torque to spec. Unfortunately, they deserve extra attention.

 

Did you see where I snapped one a couple weeks ago? Brand new OEM one too lol.

 

no! didn't see that!

 

Replaced my LBJs a few weeks back, everything went nice and smooth until I went to torque the brand new OEM bolts to spec (59 ft lbs)....as I was doing the LAST bolt, suddenly right before I hit the torque number it started spinning loosely and my f'ing stomach sank.

Snapped in half and the bolt head half fell out, and the other half was lodged inside the spindle. Had to remove the brand new LBJ to thread it out with needle nose pliers. And I ruined the boot on the new LBJ taking it off and had to buy another assembly.

Fun times lol. No idea why that bolt snapped but the others were fine. Must've been a flaw in it. 60 ft lbs isn't all that much torque to be breaking a healthy grade 8 bolt I wouldn't think

 

oh wait - okay, now I remember seeing a little of that. Yeah that is completely weird. Glad you were able to get the rest of it out. Did you thread them in hand snug then use the torque wrench? If it were me, I don't think my stomach would have sank, more like a loud/nervously worried f-bomb string would have ensued...

 

Yup threaded them in by hand and everything. Only thing I can think of is maybe I had an awkward angle on it with the torque wrench being under the truck and reaching around the LCA, which may have stressed it the wrong way. I made sure I was directly under each bolt when doing them again.