Long Travel BS Thread

What’s your opinion about yes/no sway bar on a 3link setup like dirt designs kit?
I know one dude (Alex?) with a heavier truck has an anti-rock bar on the rear, but others with the same kit do not.
Seems like most don’t with the DD kit, but also not sure if they daily the trucks. I should probably just ask Steve lol

 

Yea I'd ask Steve it is his kit lol....personally for me any linked truck will benefit from a light swaybar...3 wheeling is cool on instagram but it is no good in real driving truck handles soo much better in turns and setting up for counter steering corners is much more predictable and stable....there's other factors too in a linked suspension like your roll center, instant center and what I feel makes the biggest difference is your anti squat value...plays a big role in how your truck handles

And rear swaybars can be pretty expensive from 800- 1500$ for all the parts

 

Yup. Just checking what others' experience is, so thanks. Like to hear thoughts from multiple TW members, not just vendors. I understand the basic concept behind bypass vs smoothie but like to get as much input before I make a purchase.

 

I gotcha since I was the OP of the thread you asked in the other time wanting to know similar information. But you’re not going to get a simpler explanation.

 

Low speed...high speed a bypass shock is potentially going to function better than a smooth body.

A bypass allows more flow of oil throughout 80% of the available travel...the other 20%? Its a smooth body. Allowing more fluid flow ie lighter dampening will result in a smoother feel.

Positistion sensitive yes they are but adding weight to the pickup vs not having weight sags only a few inches which really isnt a big deal and if that puts you in a different "zone" then you can and should adjust the shock accordingly...with a bypass you can do this a smooth body you cant.

Now practicality becomes a factor...not everyone wants to spend on average 1400$ on some bypasses when they can get a smoothie for half the cost. And if your just going out and putting around the woods let's be honest you probably cant tell the difference anyway. Where a bypass really shines and you see the benefit is washboards and big hi shaft speed compressions because you can stack the shit out of the valving for the big hits but have your tubes wide open for the chatter stuff...then if you want to get fancy you get an overlapping tube layout to really open up the flow and have the ability to have a Very progressive shock( any shock 3.0 or bigger should be setup with overlaps)

 

Just a note this guy is going SOA in Connecticut so I don’t see a lot of tuning sessions out at a whoops section in the near future. Here’s the original post Accutune was referring to.

“Adding an archive relocation kit for rear with new hangers & Deaver leafs. Looking into what the triple bypasses offer over the smoothies with remote reservoir. Price not a major consideration but looking for adding value to the suspension. This is my daily driver but do a fair amount of off-roading/overlanding. Any advice or experience is appreciated.”

I mean if you don’t want smoothies, get bypasses, pay extra for the bypass valves you can turn by hand so you have something you can tune in minutes for the street and overlanding (assuming time gets spent tuning them to know the best settings) but your bypasses are going to clickity clackity down those miles o’ washboard fire and logging roads. That’s why I’d just get a set of smoothies and adjusters and go have a good time. The money you save can be used towards more fun things like good lights or a winch etc.

 

This is a big thing to consider for those that may be on the fence about really needing bypasses or not. They will 100% make your truck noisier and it will be noticeable. I think the first time I pulled up to camp after going bypasses one of my friends asked me why my truck sounded like it was falling apart.

 

Will you elaborate on what you mean by “overlapping tube layout?”

 

I didn't realize how noisy bypasses were. My buddy put some Fox 3.0's on and we took it out for a spin, it sounded like the shock was rattling apart.

 

Notice on the king shock how the compression tube adjusters are so far apart from each other? Basically when the long tube ends/ stops coming into play, the short tube begins.



Now look at this fox shock. Notice all adjusting ends of the bypasses are lined up. This means all bypass tubes will be open/ functioning for the majority of the time and will close/ not be in play sequentially as the piston moves further up the shock body.




Sorry if it is not the best description, but hopefully the pictures help. But basically overlapping = more fluid capable of being being bypassed throughout the stroke. Non-overlapping = one bypass tube at a time.

 

Yep that ^^

 

Wait till you ride around in a caged truck...bypasses all corners..airbumps click too...sounds like your truck is falling apart the entire time....put the headsets on..turn the tunes up...probs be fine lol

 

Nope, I’m following. Never heard it referenced as such but thanks for the info!

 

Definitely not afraid of hard work. If it comes out shitty, I can only blame myself lol.

 

Seems like overlapping tubes would be more where the tubes connected to the body rather than where the adjusters were in relation to the each other but i know nothing about the overlapping setup.
Hoping to install dmz this summer was almost was thinking of picking up some used smoothies as id drive this on the street a bunch. But really dont plan to carry anything unless in a pinch. Cant really decern the bypass sound in Youtube clips

 

On the street bypasses arnt bad at all.
That fox is an overlapping setup where that king isnt...

 

That's super useful.

 

Been lurking here a while posted a few times. Seriously looking at going LT soonish. Besides DK, TC, and BK. What are some other kits out there and pros and cons of the ones I mentioned and others. Not looking at a huge LT set up max 3.5" or so. Not afraid of fab work or the other little odds and ends associated with a LT set up.

 

Camburg, but that's it unless 4.5" doesn't matter w/ LSK and solo xlt which both have fabbed spindles you wouldn't ever worry about breaking. I'd go TC race kit with a simple well thought out easy to bolt on solution to the lower and not look back if I were you.