What smalls do I need to swap a new longblock?

Let me talk through this to make sure I understand:

"Clocking" the torque converter, in the context of the Tacoma, is simply presetting the position of the torque converter so the flex plate can be easily and immediately be secured after reinstalling the engine. I want to make sure a hole in the torque converter is right at the 6 o'clock position because that's the only way I'm going to be able to get a bolt into it.

As I understand it, the holes in the flex plate are all the same, and the holes in the torque converter are all the same. There are no special holes as far as the 6 holes used for attaching the flex plate to the torque converter. The only thing special is the black bolt, due to its indexing properties in securing the flex plate to the torque converter.

Does it sound like I understand correctly?

 

"Clocking" the torque converter, in the context of the Tacoma, is simply presetting the position of the torque converter so the flex plate can be easily and immediately be secured after reinstalling the engine. Nope.

Clocking the torque converter is a term used to mount it on the transmission splines and rotating so the two different splines are properly mated. You need to rotate or shift the torque converter until you feel the TWO CLUNKS that lets you know you have it correctly mated up.

I just used the 6 o'clock reference to show how I tried to make sure there would be an open hold on both the torque converter and flex plate for starting the black bolt. But no relation to clocking the torque converter during the installation and shown in the video.

If the torque converter hasn't been properly clocked to get (TWO CLUNKS), most likely the vehicle will not move when you try to drive it or some type of damage could occur.

Here's another video with some good practices for torque converter installation success.


https://youtu.be/Buz27CTac7k

 

Here's a slideshow of pictures from the transmission seal installation.

https://s286.photobucket.com/user/R...ta/Tacoma/1999/Trans_Seal_Installation?sort=9

Items to note in the pictures.

1) Freeze the seal before installation. It makes it easier to install.
2) I sand the bell housing mating surface so it is squeaky clean. I've seen grounding problems surface after transmission replacements (on some cars) when this was not properly cleaned.

 

I did not know about the black bolt... learning something new everyday.

 

Due to the bottom end being broken, I am unable to rotate the engine fully to remove the 6 flex plate bolts. Damn, this just turned into more trouble.

I started to rotate the engine and I heard a noise like a screw falling. I thought"oh man did I leave a small part balanced somewhere?". Nope. It was something inside the case falling. I get only about 20 degrees of rotation before I hear mechanical clanks and the engine does not rotate.

 

If I'm not dreaming, I pulled my engine forward and up with the torque converter attached to the flex plate. I had the transmission chained up with the engine bar so I could change the tilt and angle of the transmission from above while I operated the hoist.

 

This looks like a picture I snapped just after I pulled the engine.

This is how I got an extra set of helping hands for my one-man operation.

I removed the transmission pan to get the filler tube out of the way during the swap. I figured that I would break it otherwise.

 

Can the torque converter actually fall if it's attached to the flex plate? My assumption was that the flex plate is securely attached to the engine.

 

You're right. I'm thinking about when I removed it from the flex plate.

I got a real rush of excitement once I could see the engine was coming out.

 

It's going to take some engine tear down to break it loose so you can rotate the crankshaft to remove the flex plate. Damn.

 

If you’re 2wd getting to the bearing cradle shouldn’t take too long.

 

4wd. So far I'm just planning on moving forward taking the engine out WITH the torque converter. Once I have this engine on a stand I'll take it apart. I can't wait for such a luxurious break where I can sit on a chair a little bit, focus on cleaning too.

I've got 3 of the bell housing bolts out. I am just about to start on the last and most difficult 3.

Pretty soon I'm going to need to figure out how to hang this engine from my cherry picker. I'll have to look at some of the other guys photos to see where they anchored the chain. Any tips are appreciated!

 

Do you have a load leveler? or Helps a ton.

 

That's for sure.

 

Unfortunately I do not. I either need to go without, find somebody who has one, order one, or drive 60 miles to harbor freight.

To anybody who is planning on taking this job on: the bell housing bolts are child's play. Seriously I had more trouble with the AC compressor bolts. You just have to get RIDICULOUS on your extensions and adapters. Check out the recipe I came up with (that's a 16" long level for scale):



That's a 1/2" breaker bar, 10" extension, 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, 18" 3/8" extension, 3/8" swivel adapter, 17mm six point deep socket.

 

Home Derpot has'm

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Big-Red-3-4-Ton-Engine-Load-Leveler-TR2750/100594356

I bought this when my extension chain seemed like it wouldn't be useful while torquing bolts and it really simplified the re-installation with the bell housing bolts. You might be able to find a cheaper version somewhere:

$54 Steelman Pro 1/2" Drive, 3/8" Pinless Swivel Impact Extension, 36", Chromoly Steel with Black Oxide Finish, Maximum Torque Transfer Pinless Joint Design (79995)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WKT9ITS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Oh man you had me excited about Home Depot. The link says out of stock online and not available in stores. Bummer.

Yeah I need 1/2" all the way on my extensions. You are right, removal is one thing but torquing back in to install is another..

 

Cool tool.

 

That sucks - google it and maybe it'll pop up in a nearby store - if you have Amazon prime it shouldn't take more than a few days:

$70 Orion Motor Tech Engine Hoist Cherry Picker Engine Load Leveler Steel Chain Hoist for up to 2 Ton (4000lbs)

https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTe...ad+leveler&qid=1562531478&s=automotive&sr=1-7

I just bought a set of 3/8 deep sockets and the 3/8 part of the extension can take the torque no problem.

 

A FEW DAYS!!?? I WANT IT OUT TODAY!!! Ha ha, I'm so so close!