What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Sexy! I got 4 new rust free ones if you want them! yours look terrible

 

I have a extra set of rusty ones ill trade you

 

not sure if that is directed at me

i am trying hard to keep my cool with some of you fellow 1st gens that may or may not be totally clueless
it seems to be spiraling out of control any more...
i respect you and your rides please have the decency to do the same!

 

@1997tacomav6 has some words of wisdom i believe with the fan bracket bearing

 

Not directed at anyone in particular brother. Just do not see the point in pontificating about something as tie down hooks for the better part of 2 friggen weeks.

Jesus Christ... I spent less posts talking about swapping my truck from 2wd to 4wd.

 

#ban

 

I don’t believe it’s easily replaced.

 

ya i don't know why this has been bothering me so much either lol
it just has and i have no explanation for it, but I am definitely getting closer to a resolution
I guess I am trying to get things done right the first time with no Fcks! ... didn't want to come back in the months trying to figure out how the hell do I properly chunk this liner off those hooks and change, etc.

 

@Uphillshunter, how many different combinations and/or options are there for swapping 2wd to 4wd?

 

Easiest is skipping ADD, and adding a j-shift transfer case and manual hubs.

It's my next big project; sourcing the parts is the hardest thing about it.

 

Why Are you questioning running them into the cab? Im just running the rear so im going along the tunnel. Then dumping out at the frame rail. Both of mine will bolt up to the center console in between the seat drivers side.

 

I somewhat recently bought a second hand Aem fic6 off a board member and have slowly been installing it on my 5vz.
First I bought a new laptop to communicate with the Aem. I needed a new one anyway so this was a easy purchase. Next was loading the software and using the supplied Usb printer cable to connect. No dice.
After alot of searching, it seemed like a few possible problems. After changing settings and downloading new software I still couldn't get the computers to talk to each other. Maybe my laptop is just too new or the Aem is faulty, I didn't know and it was very frustrating. Well my wife took the laptop back to see if they could help. While standing there she saw a display rack with cables and wondered if that could be the issue. Bingo! The dang cable was bad.
Great! So now I was able to get inside the Aem and have a look around before I just slap this piggy into the truck. The Fic6 is pretty cool since it doesn't have to be connected to the vehicle to turn on, it just uses USB power. I was able to turn on the gauges and blow in the Map sensor port and watch the gauge psi change. Woohoo, my unit isn't broken!
Next was wiring. RTFM! Some of the online tutorials are a little wrong, and some people seem to get different results. Long story short, I am not running the cam sensor wires and thus have eliminated the Po340 code (after many of them). I tried the 2.2k resistor with no luck. I dont even care to try other ones, as I've read plenty about others also not using the cam circuit.
Finally it runs! Been driving around N/a just to make sure everything is gravy. Maps zeroed out and I just played with o2 skewing to determine what voltages dictate Afr. I'm going to burn through this tank of 87, then it's time for the supercharger!

 

Just something about having high pressure brake lines running inside the cab, more potential fittings for leaks, etc.

Yeah maybe just doing the rear and running it through the trans tunnel is a good idea, then it just has to pop through the floor for a few inches to get the fitting in place.

 

Anyone ever replace their driver’s front diff needle bearing with the bushing from ECGS? I need to replace mine soon, looking for suggestions. Watched Timmy’s video on YouTube, seemed like a pain in the ass...

 

Yeah I agree lines in the cab isn't a good idea also because the cab moves a LOT even with new bushings. So your chances of damaging a hard line is pretty high.

Also why a line lock? What's wrong with the normal e brake? It's actually more reliable than a line lock..

And why bother with the proportion valve in the cab? You won't be changing it that much..

 

Gas tank fully finished, bolted up no problem. Got the truck started for the first time in a month. Only had a minor leak on the new fuel filter I installed.




Also started cutting the new shock crossmember. Will burn it in next week at my buddies shop so we can have it on a lift and do all the fun travel testing shit.

 

If you're using a quality ball valve for the line lock, there shouldn't be any pressure drop, and it should be very reliable. The main brakes have much more braking torque than a parking brake (at least for drum in hat rear discs ). Even for the stock drums, the hydraulic cylinder can apply a much higher force on the shoes than the e-brake cable can.

Agreed the proportioning valve doesn't need to be in the cab, I still have the front range offroad one you recommended sitting in a box, along with the custom fitting that allows it to thread right into the master cylinder.

 

The line has coils in it to absorb the cab movment, and I cant get mine to rattle more than .25 in on heavy washbord. Your cab might move alot, but mine doesn't.
Edit plus the master cylinder is attached to the cab anyways.

The normal E brake kept sticking and was always stretching hanging up on shit freezing up in the winter. I know they will hold just as good as a transfer case brake, and cause I find it a better solution.

I put the valve in the cab because when I roll solo camping its another 200lbs or the 5 of us its a differnce of 350ish lbs. With it in the cab I make slight adjustments on the trail or highway with out opening the hood.

 

The finished product


And I can all ready tell a difference with the power steering cooler in.

 

Whatever’s going on here definitely wouldn’t work for me, that’s where my left foot goes.