All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

The dr tray is definitely the nicest current Yakima offering. Wish it accepted a wider range of wheel sizes. Pretty sure it’s limited 26”-29” wheels.

Really enjoyed following your trip vicariously. Seemed like the trip of a lifetime.

I hope to learn the skills needed to do at least half of the rebuild you completed. Currently I feel like I’m scrambling just to eek in enough time for a ride a week, let alone time to actually wrench myself. Good on ya!

 

camper shell = no more tailgate pad. Im fixing to get a new hitch rack... but until then, strappy things and stuff scattered. from a 5 day romp at SnowShoe:

 

Just purchased a Lolo 6 bike rack.
After doing lots of research between brands (NS, recon, Alta, etc), I decided on giving the lolo rack a try. More affordable than the Recon or Alta racks for holding 6 bikes.

Been trying out a Kuat NV 2.0, but decided to go the vertical bike rack route to help with ground clearance and keep it cheaper.

http://www.loloracks.com/store/6bike

 

Working on getting a blog going to document the whole thing. Honestly impressed by the quality of riding out there. Trail riding is crazy fun, and super long with tons of vert. Some of the most badass natural riding I've ever seen with average pitches over 25% for 7 miles (7K ft drop). All the while with some of the most stunning natural backdrops anywhere, puts the Rockies to shame.

 

Post up the link when you’re done!

 

So I’m trying to get away from wearing a pack for every ride. A hip pack isn’t out of the realm of possibilities as my frame will only accommodate a single 20oz bottle, and that ain’t cutting it in this GA heat.

What’s the minimum essentials everyone is carrying?
The known/have: tube, patch kit, multi-tool, zip-ties.
The need: CO2/mini pump (both or one vs other?), chain quick links.
What else am I missing for a barebones kit?

 

I carry a tube, bike tool, pump, snacks. that's about it actually. oh, and my phone, obviously. I should def carry some quick links, but don't have any at the moment... I'm rarely out for more than a couple hours though.

 

I use the Dakine HotLaps fanny pack. I hate sweatty back, and I hate a back pack that rises and tags my helmet when I jump stuff. The fanny pack addresses both of those things, but still took getting used to and you have to use the compression straps to cinch it after sips or it gets loose as the bladder gets emptier.

 

I’ve got one of these things (first link) to hold my CO2, multitool, and patch/plug kit that fits inside the frame on my Remedy. A pump, keys, phone, pocket knife and an emergency snack usually goes in the fanny pack (second link). I have the bigger Dakine pack with bladder for longer rides, but might be able to do without since my new stache has two bottle mounts!

https://www.dakine.com/en-us/bags/backpacks/bike-backpacks/hot-laps-gripper-bike-bag/

https://www.dakine.com/en-us/bags/backpacks/bike-backpacks/hot-laps-2l-bike-waist-bag/

 

Killer feedback gents
You’ve all been mentioning parts/packs I’ve looked at. Nice to get confirmation I’m heading in the right direction.

@jeff b
Are your wheels the line comp 40s? If so, the rear hub is probably similar to the rear hub of the line comp 30s I just had put on. For around $30 in parts you can jump to 108 POE (3.3*).
https://nsmb.com/articles/bontrager-line-comp-30-wheelset/

 

My dude. You don’t need a patch kit if you’re rocking a spare tube.

Secondly, definitely consider some “bacon strips” if you’re set up tubeless.

Co2 is nice, but only replaces a mini pump where speed is required (ie. seating a tubeless tire trailside).

Other than that, I think you’ve got your bases covered.

 

what multi tools are you guys running?

I currently have a Crankbros m19, but wanna get something more compact and lightweight to throw onto a bike pouch to strap to my frame.

There are tons out there but I wanna get opinions on the favorites

 

Definitely quick links and a multi tool with a chain beaker. Get a shock pump that has a presta valve converter. You can use it for your suspension or your tires that way.

 

Crankbros F15

 

I just recently started running tubeless. I still carry a spare tube. Partially out if habit, but i also feel like it’s a necessary backup for any setup.

 

Anyone have a good recommendation for chain lube? I used Tri-Flo in the past but it sure is messy.

 

I do... but no one here would follow my process. Single speed racing and gravel racing is murder on chains, but my waxing method has proven to vastly extend chain life, reduce wear, and the real bonus is no more greasy chains.

 

Looks like you know what the hell you're doing. Anything idiot proof for me?

 

I’ve been using Dumonde tech original (https://www.dumondetech.com/portfolio/bicycle-chain-lube-bcl-original-formula/) which is good but takes a little longer to apply. you are supposed to apply to each roller, spin the cranks, wipe the chain down then ride for a bit of time to get the lube to work it’s way into the rollers, then a final wipe down. At least that’s how I was taught. If it’s not applied correctly it will make a mess and won’t last long.

I used finish line lube for a while which worked fine just didn’t last as long. It’s cheap though so if you apply every few rides it’s not a huge deal.

 

Alright... but you asked for it.

This is very much a "Buy once; cry once" setup.

1. If you're not a "regular" maintenance scheduler and tend to do maintenance items ad hoc or when there's absolutely no other option and you NEED to ride; I strongly recommend purchasing two chains of equal length/type if you're thinking of using a this method. In my experience, if you're short on time and the chain has been left too long without a cleaning/waxing; you can then just take off the old one, throw it into a solution of mineral spirits (or your degreaser of choice) and let it marinate while you install the 2nd chain to use immediately. It's still imperative that you'll need to address the original chain at some point before chain 2 loses protection... The upside to this is that you are extending the life of the drive train significantly by always running a clean chain and getting double life out of the two... it's a more costly purchase up front but that's negated and recouped over time since chains are a wear item anyway.

2. Setting a repeatable procedure and system helps, a lot!(I cannot stress this enough; find a process that works to your liking and stick with it. This takes a little time and patience to set, but once done; it becomes easy and nearly without thought)

After purchasing the chain(s), the ultrasonic cleaner, the wax, and setting my mind to it; I quickly found out that I needed a repeatable process. I went to Home Depot, into the paint department and purchased 4 of the 1qt paint containers with lids, 1 can of mineral spirits, 1 can of denatured alcohol, and another bag-o-rags (I always have one of my toolbox drawers stuffed full of these). I then went back to Amazon and purchased a hot wax warmer (like for removing body hair) as they're designed to hold wax at melting temperature and come with a removable container to swap out wax. Bonus that it was supplied with a pack of those tongue depressors to stir and agitate the wax with the chain in it.

Cleaning the old chains that were already crudded and dirty with wet lube were actually the longest piece of the process... I mean REALLY trying to get them clean and free of debris from in-between all the links. The ultrasonic cleaner definitely helps but is not perfect. I've been using carburetor cleaner (does anyone under the age of 40 even know what a carburetor is?) in the ultrasonic but may try something stronger a bit later. The solution seems to work fine when heated to about 60C, and I run the ultrasonic part for 10 minutes.

So, the process thus far is:

1. Remove chain and place in preheated ultrasonic cleaner (if you want to go this route), I heat mine at 150F (67C) and run the ultrasonic for 10 minutes, then assess and maybe brush while it's in there.
   
2. Remove chain, dry with compressed air or clean towel, and place in a container of CLEAN denatured alcohol, agitate well and look for any debris/residue to release and fall to the bottom. If no debris/residue, remove, allow to dry completely before applying wax.
3. While doing all of the above, the wax should be preheating and melted (I set at 185F). Agitate the wax with a stir stick to move the Moly and Graphite around back into solution, then coil/dump the dry chain in while keeping the twisted wire keeper visible for grabbing. Agitate the chain well throughout the wax until no bubbles visible, then grab by wire and remove (taking care to not let it fling hot wax on you or your shop) THE CHAIN IS HOT (DAMHIK) and should be hung somewhere it won't be in the way or bumped and can drip hot wax without worry. (I hang mine from my vise initially and it drips on my mat)
4. Once cool and dry, the chain will be completely stiff and will hold that shape until each link is broken loose from its waxy coating. Breaking each link is necessary before installation, but the bonus is that the chain being already coated can be hung and ready for use without worry of being exposed to corrosion/oxidation.

All total, it takes me about an hour per, but most of that time is in the pre-heating of the ultrasonic and wax pot. As the chains are cleaned/waxed going forward, I can get that time down to about 15 minutes once the cleaner and wax are pre-heated (that part takes longer than the cleaning/waxing process. It really works better to have a chain already clean, waxed and hanging ready to use when you're removing the old one. Coil and ump the dirty one in one of the containers w/ spirits, agitate and let it sit for a few hours or overnight. Batching multiple chains per cleaning/waxing session is highly recommended.

Tangential items that I adapted to make the process easier:

• Motorcycle safety wire and wire twisting pliers. (I cut a 3-4" section of wire, feed the master links on it, then run the ends through the holes in the chain ends and twist it all together to act as a hook and grab out of the solutions and so the links stay with the chain at all times.)
• Pegboard hooks to hang the chains as they cool and for future use.
• Labels for designated chain use (road, mtb, single speed gear combo)
• Extra 1qt containers with lids to transfer the previously dirty Min Spirits and Den Alcohol that has settled into those designated containers, then wiping the collected residue in the bottom out with a paper towel.
• I break the links loose by rolling the chain over the tightening handle of my vise. It breaks the larger wax chunks off, while freeing each link on the rivets.
• Coiling the chain into a tight "beehive" that fits in the palm of your hand will also fit in the plastic containers, in the wax pot, and in the ultrasonic cleaner pot without having to uncoil.
• When blowing the old wax and residue through the chain with the compressor, I hang it by the safety wire on a hook, hold a clean-ish rag behind it, and blow through the chain on to the rag. This method lets me see how clean the residue is blowing through the links.

One of these chains is brand new and the other has 2500 miles on it. Can you tell which is which?