Por-15

Anyone on here ever use POR-15? I've seen mixed reviews on the product. I have a 09 Tacoma 4x4 in Ohio, where we generously apply salt to the roads. I have a lot of (so far) surface rust on the frame under the engine, probably where the skid plate holds in all that salty slush. Also, my truck has had a frame replacement before I bought it used from a dealer. Do I need to even bother? Is there any kind of warranty on the replacement frame? I got a letter from Toyota about it, but as most things from big companies, it was vague and not really helpful. BTW, you guys rock! You've helped me so many time with your repair posts and generous use of pictures. One of the best forums I've belonged to!

 

I wouldn’t POR it at all unless it was last ditch. I’ve used POR on a few projects for select issues but not an entire frame. And not one that still has a good bit of factory coat left intact.

Personally I’d wire wheel down whatever you’ve got, which if it’s just surface rust it’s not hard to do. If you can get it to bare metal easily then that would be even better, but once you’ve wire wheeled, wipe it down real good with like an alcohol or something or even some phosphate rust “converter” and then topcoat with paint, let paint cure per directions or longer, then final coat should be a rust preventive like fluid film or whatever equivalent you choose. Then from there on out, keep it maintained during the winter by rinsing salt, and top up your rust preventive when it warms up in the spring or summer.

 

POR-15 has been used extensively in the vintage car world both foreign and domestic. Look on any vintage car site. It is an encapsulator not a rust neutralizer (converter). One of the big issues is it does not hold up well to UV light and there is a extra process to "bond" other paint to it. It is also relatively expensive and does not save well in the can without again special precautions.

Having said this, I love the stuff and when used appropriately it is hard as nails, way tuffer than power coating. It has its place but you need to spend some time to really understand its best use.

On a Tacoma frame I would do as @JdevTac above mentioned, clean, neutralize/convert, POR-15, finish coat.

 

I have tried POR-15 in some places other than my truck with varying results. The hardest part is getting it to bond to the substrate. If you can do that, as taco912 says, it is hard as hell and will hold up well. But a frame is going to take a lot of abuse in the rust belt and anything I have tried for frame protection is usually gone by mid-winter. Have been considering trying some spray-on truck bed coating that will take some of the abrasion that occurs driving on winter roads. Here's a link to one type under consideration:
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...rcoating/professional-grade-truck-bed-coating

Any thoughts on this stuff?

 

I’d honestly just do some regular rattle can as opposed to the bedliner. My other issue with the rattle can bedliner is the cans like to clog halfway into spraying and become worthless.

I’ve used duplicolor engine enamel for a lot of projects and really like it. Has ceramic in it too and makes a nice coat, usually use Ford semi gloss black color. Has held up very wheel on my steel well and where I’ve used it on my frame.

 

My buddy had a 67 Mustang convertible and the original owner had waxed the hood so much he removed the paint so it ended up rusting the entire hood. My friend wire brushed the hood and painted it with POR 15. He drove the car for years like that with it exposed to the sun and it was still holding up (but faded) the last time I saw it. I hit part of my frame with it last fall and I plan on doing more of it soon. If you clean it up (wire brush and get rid of contaminates) it should hold up pretty well. It could obviously get chipped by rocks and road debris but then anything would. I've used in some older Camaro floors and trunks and it held up really well. I've never tried painting over it and it feels like that could be a challenge to get the paint to grab hold of it.

 

The rest of the frame is holding up well, it's just where the engine is, which I never noticed before because I just took off the skid plate to replace the suction line on my A/C (only to have the compressor clutch fail two weeks later..) so I figured while I'm under there before I put my skid plate back on, I'd put something on there to at least slow the rust down. It definitely needs some good old wire wheel action. Hopefully, I can squeeze another 200,000 miles out of this truck. I hate car shopping with a passion. I really appreciate all the good advice (without the condescending answers or insults like other forums I've been in) you guys are awesome.

 

I've used POR-15 on a number of projects. It's all about following the prep instructions.
Use their marine clean or a good degreaser. Then use their metal prep phosphoric acid per the instructions. Then apply several coats of POR-15 using throw away chip brushes.

Here's a tip: don't open the can, ever! Lay it on its side and poke a hole near the top with a nail. Dispense what you need in an old, clean plastic container (sour cream, cream cheese, etc). Run a self tapping screw to seal the hole. For belts and suspenders, add a rubber washer under the head of the screw.

Next tip: wear nitrile gloves. If it gets on your skin, you'll be wearing it for several weeks.

It will chalk if in direct sunlight but takes quite a while to degrade. I had the infamous dodge paint failure on my old Cummins and painted the roof with this stuff. Lasted over 3 years without any rust formation until it was repainted at a local technical school. It took an aggressive sanding disc on a grinder to remove.