Long Travel BS Thread

If you could measure I'd appreciate it.

 

Yeah exactly haha

 

What's the allowable angle on the outer CV when trimming the steering stop?

 

My understanding is that with a long bed you can pull a clean 16+" out of your DMZ kit with proper shock length / mounting. A 14" shock mounted under the bed would be a limiting factor, likely limiting bump travel because the shock is lower. In my opinion if you are already committed to all of the fab work of a DMZ kit it would be best to maximize the performance and capability of the setup with a 16" shock and low profile bed cage that retains most of the usable bed space.

I recently picked up a DMZ kit, waiting on 16" triples right now. Tim is an awesome guy, he is a wealth of knowledge and has been extremely helpful answering any questions I have come up with. I am sure if you were to call or email him and discuss the options you are considering he would be able to advise you based on his experience as the designer and main installer of these kits.

 

Its not worth it, trust me haha. I saw it in person before it was stripped like 10 months ago. Time to be scrapped. Maybe pull the LT kit off the front, but just a 2WD kit built by JTA.

 

used to be a pretty sweet rig, just wanted the fiberglass and tube and i was just gonna part the front out and coilovers. cut the back and front off and would be a good chassis for a crawler.

 

14” is max you can go without getting into the mess of putting holes in the bed and taking it intirely new direction which it didn’t sound like he wanted to loose bed space. Like he said at that point might as well go link the bitch lol. You have to draw a line somewhere. 14” is already maxed out TC sells 10” kit for their LT so going 14 is already a huge step up.

 

I don’t understand for the life of me, why no one orders the correct tube layout for these kits. You’re giving away atleast an inch of shock clearance by running this layout, and it doesn’t cost anymore to get the style 2 layout

 

It’s yours if you want it

 

You’re correct sir. king messed up the order and was shipping a new shock body with a different tube layout this was taken prior to the new body arrival and rebuilding of a shock.

 

Plus I know with the RJ kit that I have, I can step up to a 3.0in shock, and even talk with kdm or dialed about designing a custom tube layout.

My main reason for seeking the cantilever, and if there's a difference, spending the extra money, was so I could get the travel without going through the bed.

 

It is as simple as geometry. The angles of a vertical shock barely change, and that means it acts consistently to control your vehicle.

A cantilever setup is constantly varying the shock in its ability to control your vehicle, on a significantly sliding scale. It think it would require bypasses to even be practical since the zones can be used to make up for the changed geometry between full droop and full bump

 

Anyone know where to get a decent driveshaft for go fast?

 

Inland empire drive shaft

 

PM sent.

 

Cantilever suspension is a well understood set of dynamics. It's more complicated, but not black magic.

 

True, but most cantilever suspension operate on a limited motion ratio that allows the kinematics to play well with the dynamics. F1 style cars etc use this exclusively for unsprung weight advantages and packaging advantages.

A long travel setup is more likely to have a large change in motion ratio thru travel, which can be appropriately compensated for... but without that change being a known data set, its very likely to exhibit inconsistent dynamic behavior at some point in travel.

As long as the motion ratio is largest at near full droop, and only decreases with compression, its not a hard setup to tune, the shock will just run a little hotter than a more conventional setup over t he same terrain, which may or may not be a problem.

 

Absolutely, you'll need real modeling capabilities to make it work, it's not just a fabrication problem.

 

Dirt designs, Allco fab, and NV Fab are in that area.
DD and Allco will probably have wait times to get into the shop.

I’ve gone to NV Fab in Grover Beach, very pleased with his work, timeline, and prices. Cool low key dude to work with.

 

It’s out in Barstow. They have everything from race trucks, to pre-runners to DD’s all testing and tuning. Pretty cool to watch them work. My son had a blast watching the race trucks.