What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Those ones show as being for the auto trans, the wiring is different length for the manual trans Tacomas

Don't know why they made them different lengths but for some reason they are, I initially ordered the wrong rear one awhile ago and had to exchange it

 

Blower speed is linear with engine speed. Your max boost is only achieved at max engine speed. Therefore, when you are getting a blower, you need to get a proper sized pulley to meet your desired boost. Once installed, you will never exceed the mechanical limitations of the ratio between your engine and supercharger so no danger of over boosting. To my knowledge, there is no boost control for blowers (or any supercharger).

Turbo's need a way to control boost as the turbo spools exponentially with the engine speed. This is why turbo's are superior to superchargers; they spool to your desired boost level much quicker in the engine's power band (as long as you pick a properly spec'ed turbo).

The bypass valve just allows air in front of the supercharger to bypass the screws and go directly into the engine without being pressurized. This is only done during idle and low engine loads as the supercharge efficiency is too low in this range.

 

Another reason I don't understand why there is any advantage to a blower over a turbo. If you can install a blower I'm sure you can a turbo.

 

@eon_blue Hey bro, quick question, can you post the link to the door handle that you're always talking about? I know they're aftermarket but I don't just want to get anyone. I need to replace my drivers side if that helps. Thanks!

 

Turbo is a bit more complicated to install than a blower, especially 1st gen blower (no intercooler).

When it comes to performance, Turbo > Supercharger

 

It was the Dorman one, I got it off Amazon...both sides have held up for the past 1.5 yrs since I broke several OEM ones lol.

$43 Dorman 79344 Front Driver Side Exterior Door Handle Compatible with Select Toyota Models, Smooth Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NYN8S8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Dormans have the bigger lip on the back that engages the handle which keeps it from slipping off like the OEM ones do, at least that's how mine were failing. Seems there are numerous ways the door handles tend to fail so YMMV.

 

The supercharger is for the most part plug and play and has proven reliability.

Turbo there are no plug and play kits. There are kits but still need to know what your doing and
with modifications and will take a while to install with fuel mods needed.

Supercharger you can install in 2 or 3 hours tops and run the stock pulley without having to do much for mods.

 

Thx. Didn't know that. Edited and added a note.

 

The manual ones connection is mounted super high up and the auto just isn't.

 

Anyone running the Shrockworks rear bumper?

This one

I like the minimal design/good clearance and it looks to have room to add a swing out or wrap around tubing down the road. Curious if anyone had one and had any issues with it.

 

Hey guys, need your guidance. I've driving the truck for three days now and have noticed a strong vibration on the front suspension when hitting pot holes and such. Tomorrow my mechanic is going to take a good look at it to see whats the culprit. My question is, if its just a blown shock(s), what shocks would you recommend just for a swap. These will be my daily driver and I'm not planning on building the truck to do any serious off roading. Thanks a bunch!!! Ohhh, and a pick of my new baby!!!

 

2004 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road
http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/5722819

 

If you want to keep it stock I would just get a pair of Bilstein 4600s like what it came with, or you can do the Bilstein 5100s for a slight upgrade and just keep them on the 0 setting to retain stock ride height.

 

thanks @eon_blue, I'll go check the different prices on both and order a set of 4.

 

If you're still on the original springs up front you might want to look into changing those too...to be honest I don't know what to recommend for that as the only ones I'm familiar with are for lift. But if your originals are worn and saggy that could be contributing to the poor ride quality.

 

While you're looking at shocks, check out your lower ball joints and outer tie rods. Depending on the mileage, they may need to be replaced. Use OEM parts for the LBJ and OTR.

 

The gauge I am looking into measures AFR and will cut the boost at your desired setting to protect from pinging

 

Failsafe boost gauge is cool, but really designed for overboost situations caused by a turbo. You could make it work still but you'll need a vacuum tank and some little vacuum switching valves to actuate the bypass valve.

 

I've heard of that one, if your AFRs are too far off it'll cut boost to protect the motor...I think @1997tacomav6 has that one

 

John has one similar but without the boost cut. He has been helping me with my build ( a lot). I was hoping to find someone with the boost cut to give feedback.