MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

really looking forward to this mod!

 

5 Kits left in stock. I will be out of the country the 5th-17th so get your orders in now.

 

4 kits left. Last day to ship is Friday 7/5 before 2pm eastern time. $65 shipped.

 

Finally got mine done. A bit of a PITA but got it done. Did a quick drive and so far feels nice.

 

Can you elaborate? I attempted this week but learned I have to drop the skids...currently nursing a back issue so didn't feel up to continuing. Perhaps a tantalizing description of your accumulator delete might encourage me to try again....

 

The hardest part was getting the lower fitting threaded. The line felt a bit too long so it took some time to move it around, carefully, so I could get the fitting threaded.

I have heard getting the shield back on can be tricky as well since the hard line is bigger, as it were, and can cause some slight fitment issues.

I'm keeping mine off for a day to make sure all is well.

 

If you happen to contact the shield, you can gently massage the line if that helps and bend / form the shield at will.

 

When I did mine, I started the threads on the bottom into the slave, then connected the top line and tightened, the pushed the line into the slave and tightened. It worked pretty well and I’ve had no leaks in mine

 

Ya, I got here on. Took a bit, but I got it. So far no leaks it appears. I am keeping the shield off till tomorrow so I can keep an eye on it. So far, it feel much better.

 

Received my line today, once I finish up these assignments for classes I am taking this week I will try to get it installed.

 

okay 9$ and one beer and got this puppy pumped out. got my 5.29 gears in earlier this week and with the increased RPM, higher low end torque from the gears I noticed that the accumulator is causing my shifting to lunge and really take away from my acceleration if I want to pop the clutch a little faster then normal, so I decided its time to try this out! it feels AWESOME! the clutch feels wonderful, I know EXACTLY when the clutch is going to smack that flywheel and best part it slaps the flywheel and stays ON it! It doesn't bounce off of the flywheel because of the accumulator pressure regulation anymore and doesn't make the truck lunge 2 to 3 times. Also downshifting is great. you can really tell that this mod allows SMOOTH shifting. absolute must haves on these trucks are 4.88, 5.29 gears and an accumulator delete feels like a totally different truck my friends! for those DIY guys here's a little write up of what I did.

Go hit your local autozone and pick up these parts.



1. Clamp this hose




2. Remove 4, 12mm bolts holding the heatshield to the transmission protecting the slave cylinder.


3. Personally I went ahead and loosened all the bolts and clutch lines to be able to take everything out by hand. use a 12 MM to loosen the 3 bolts holding on the actuator. then use a 10mm to loosen the fitting connected to the slave cylinder then loosen the fitting on top of the actuator coming down from the firewall. next remove the 3 bolts to separate the actuator from the transmission. finish by removing the fitting going into the slave cylinder and the fitting screwed into the top of the actuator.



4. Optional: get a wire hanger and make your bends. I forgot to factor in the new coupling so I was a bit short as you can see im a bit to far to the right of the fitting coming down from the firewall. but I just pulled the line from the firewall to the right until I was able to screw it in. so as you can see you can mess up your bend and still make it work just fine! I bent the line using both thumbs just do your best to go slow with bending and try not to have to straighten it back up or bend the opposite way after a bend because you will kink the line.


5. Use a 10MM for the clutch line fittings and a 15MM for the coupling and tighten your new line in.


6. Loosen the bleeder on the slave cylinder, then once loose go into the engine bay and remove your clamp from step 1. by the time you get back under the truck it should be dripping pretty good and you can tighten the bleeder screw.

7. re-install the heat shield using the 4, 12MM bolts.



I hope this helps someone! let me know feedback on how you like the new feel. I absolutely love it.

Even though I was off and not perfect with my bends if you wanted my measurements that I used here they are. (the first picture is the one that should be shorter maybe 1/2" to 3/4" shorter and that length added into the second picture top side of tape measure length.)

 

I still have no idea how you guys are getting such good pictures under there. I always seem to be either too close to what I'm trying to take a picture of, or have it completely out of frame!

Thanks for the writeup, and I vote for turning this into a .PDF and putting it in the first post. I will volunteer to make the PDF.

I agree though, this totally eliminates that excessive clutch slip during "spirited" driving.

 

Yes please! For such expensive vehicles I understand people afraid of unbolting factory things. But as a manual driver people need to get rid of it! PDF it and post it up cheers!

 

It looks like they changed the brake reservoir to include the clutch reservoir in the 2019. this should give a little extra maneuverability in the engine bay.
Good job on the hanger for a template. I wish I would have done that. I may still go back a do this to replace my current line with new one, just for some cleaner bends.

 

All in on this @sherwoods_Fleet
Appreciate the write up!

 

You got it my friend!

 

I believe the reservoir is like that on all 3rd gen years. with exception of the OR and PRO, these models have the dedicated reservoir I can only assume for more reliability during offroading...

 

My OR does have a dedicated clutch reservoir. I did not realize the Tacoma had different reservoirs for different trim levels. Excessive tooling and development costs that are not necessary.

That is probably their thinking. It would have been less expensive and complicated for them to design and build tooling for the most "extreme" set of specifications and apply it across the board.
A combined reservoir can be had, with trail ratings. Steeper approach and depart angles without exposing the accesses ports in the master cylinder along with some other stipulations about full lining wear with no indicator and a bunch of other boring junk.

The new JL wrangler for instance has a combined reservoir and it is trail rated. Actually, it uses the same reservoir whether AT or MT.

Guess what I do for a living, lol

 

somebody can chime in, but I thought the OR and PROs had the extra reservoir because they've got a brake booster for the ATRAC system?

So I guess by not including that in the lower trims, they're really saving money on those trims rather than increasing cost on the higher ones (assuming you agree they need ATRAC)

 

True, but the reservoir doesn't care what its connected to. At that end, its just a hose coming off a barbed port. So now there are two different brake fluid reservoirs and clutch reservoir, where there could be just one universal Brake fluid reservoir.
Unless the ATRAC system requires some excessive amount of fluid that couldn't be captured in the reservoir and still leave enough for the clutch without exceeding the allowable design envelope under the hood. Which doesn't make sense since they found room for the clutch reservoir and its mounting bracket.