Thoughts and opinions on THIRD BREAK LIGHT set-up

Ok, but I will still have to replace 1 for 1, so...

Plus, my whole thing is to try to keep EVERY MOD looking as factory as possible. Prime example is the OEM rear power window switch, or the OEM Prius gas door lock release switch, I could have get it done with a much cheaper switch in BOTH cases - but is not what I want.

And overhead is out of the question, cuz I like my compass/temp gauge.



So, what say you?

 

'The way is shut. It was made by those who are Dead, and the Dead keep it, until the time comes. The way is shut.'

How about Center Console?

 

Nope! can do... I have the control knobs for my 2 JL Audio TWK-88s DSPs...



AND... in the cubby hole behind the cup holders, I’m considering putting a Stinger Audio digital DC voltmeter gauge... BUT! I like what you have done there.

BTW, can you explain the opening paragraph, what does it mean?

 

BTW... Hey bro, where did you get that crab in the center console??? Navy???

 

I thought you were quoting this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_4-rCROcsM

So I quoted this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHcDMNn2U2k

 

Pic is from Forum...

 

Oh! GOTCHA!

 

This diagram show 3 relays, I have a few questions:

1 Are two of those three relays currently part of the electrical OEM system?

I mean, the truck does have third brake light and dome light, so,

2 Does that mean that each circuit have it’s own relay? If so, can you tell me how can I find them?

3 If questions 1 and 2 are affirmative, does that mean that I would only need to add ONE more relay?

And finally,

4 Is this switch the one you were talking about?


Just in case I have to go to plan B

 

1- NO, none are in the vehicle system, they need to be added if you follow the diagram.
2- NO, you'll need to add them. There's one for tying the 3rd brake lamp ( 2 red KC Cyclones) to the stop circuit and to the bed illumination circuit. The second one, provides power to the bed illumination lamps (2 white Cyclones) and if selected by the bed switch, to include the red Cyclones to also turn ON with the white Cyclones. The third relay provides ground to the bed illumination Cyclones relay by tying into the door courtesy switch or direct to chassis ground via the bed switch.
3- 3
4- Looks like it.

 

Yet another choice of powering the white KC Cyclones...


Parallel to the Cabin Room Lamp - ON & OFF with Door. If you require them to be ON without the Cab Room Lamp to be ON, then you'll need to add a SPDT switch inline with the ground wire of the Cyclones. Center pin of SPDT switch to Cyclone ground, one pin to the Ground side of the Room Lamp Switch. the other pin to chassis ground. Circuit will not shut OFF automatically.

 

What would be a good and clean solution to mount the three relays that the OEM install requires?

I want to keep these 3 relays inside the cab, preferably under the dash - driver or pass side, don’t matter.

 

Do this one..no headaches.



Verify which is (+) and (-), place small bolt, washer n nut, ring terminal n another nut. Insulate from metal roof.

 

What do you mean? What is this option?

I was going to ask you also, while I wait for an answer or other options for using the OEM cargo light switch, I want to go ahead and install my light enclosure.

I want to know if I can just connect the 2 red stop lights directly to the existing wire that connects to the OEM third brake light (I will tap into the + and - wires, don’t want to cut the connector).

And then just tap the 2 white cargo lights to the dome light for an “auto” illumination only.
And this would be only a temporary solution, until I decide a location for the relays and also if going with the OEM switch is possible.

What do you think?

 

Sure. Like so:


Ring terminals on the WHITE KC Cyclones to the Room Lamp holes, (picture on prior post)
T-Taps to blue (+) to red wire on RED KC Cyclones and white with black stripe to Black wire. (STOP)

 

Got it!!

So, very simple





So, once I decide to put any switch into the mix is when I will worry about all the other pieces of the install (relays, fuses, switch, etc)

This simple “tapping” will allow me to get the KC lights on... I might just wire for stop and cargo illumination, but get all four lights wired directly to the stop circuit and will have all four KCs with red lenses.

Will only do the cargo illumination feature until I get the switch figured out... maybe.

What do you think??

Cuz with the white lights tapped directly to the dome circuit, I will have an “outside” dome light...

 

Stay with the bed illumination tied to the cab overhead lamp...

 

^^^^^ Right?

 

Verify which side is positive on the overhead lamp (+) to (+). The negative is the side that'll provide ON at door open, Dimming OFF & ON.

 

Really appreciate your help, this simple solution will allow me to have fully functional third break light and a door open/dome light on only cargo light option until if figure out the rest - thanks! I’ll let you know.

 

Do work with the battery disconnected...after you verify which side on the overhead lamp is (+).