DRL always hot?

Thank you Ronzio for posting a picture of your raptor lights spliced into the parking lights. I did the same and now they work without having the headlights on. Perfect solution.

 

Could you take a wider shot of this for me please?

 

thank you!

 

@Pbird74 take a look at this thread.

 

Which EFI circuit? EFI Main? No.1? No.2?

 

Let me look real quick and I’ll let you know. It’s been a while

 

I wish Toyota used standard industry terminology like this.
T 30 comes from the source you want to carry voltage to the lamp / motor, whatever you want, and is fused .
T 87 is the terminal that goes to that lamp, motor or whatever and these wires must be rated to the expect amp / watts draw / load.
T 86 is the switch, what you want to use to as a power source with not that much amps / watts and does not carry a serious load . This way it can be tapped into and draw little current as all it does is turn on and off the relay
T85 goes to ground .

Years ago I worked on a Toyota headlight problem and at that time hi and lo beams were switch by switching grounds. So Know what way this works before you install a relay.

AND lets say you used the EFI connection to be the switch, but might want a OFF anyway. In that case you can add a physical Kill Switch to the ground for the lamp, or motor so it has a master Kill switch .

 

Way back in the beginning of this thread there is a schematic by Toyota and they simply jumped T 30 to T 86 .

 

If you use the INJ fuse for your add-a-fuse, the grill lights will be on whenever the ignition switch is on, but not come on during the emmision test.

 

This is what I needed- thanks!

 

Is there an issue plugging two 10A fuses into one slot?