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Removing sway bar to install bumper bracket

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Papa_cheese, Jul 19, 2019.

  1. Jul 19, 2019 at 12:45 PM
    #1
    Papa_cheese

    Papa_cheese [OP] Active Member

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    Betting to remove the sway bar on my 2013 tacoma but I’m having troubles removing the end links, I’ve looked at few post on here but nothing has helped so far,

    FBEBFAD3-9654-445F-8EEF-D41C0EE44072.jpg
     
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  2. Jul 19, 2019 at 12:57 PM
    #2
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    What’s the particular problem? I just hit it with WD40 and it came off.
     
  3. Jul 19, 2019 at 1:20 PM
    #3
    Papa_cheese

    Papa_cheese [OP] Active Member

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    Well I’ve tried putting the Allen key in but nothing wants to budge.
     
  4. Jul 19, 2019 at 1:25 PM
    #4
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A トヨタ純正男娼

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    Why do you need to remove the end links?

    Just unbolt the sway bar pillowblocks from the frame to lower the sway bar enough to install your bumper brackets. Support the bar with a jack or a block of wood.
     
  5. Jul 19, 2019 at 1:33 PM
    #5
    Papa_cheese

    Papa_cheese [OP] Active Member

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    Tried that but currently there’s a metal bracket that was installed by the pervious owner that is blocking the new bracket. The old bracket can’t be removed due to the sway bar being in the way.

    5103CF7D-2C5F-47BA-9568-04B549AF6E08.jpg
    0BE20FEE-0DFF-4734-BE2D-483A95E3587E.jpg
     
  6. Jul 19, 2019 at 1:52 PM
    #6
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A トヨタ純正男娼

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    Looks like you have full access to the pillowblock bolts if you remove the front skid?
     
  7. Jul 19, 2019 at 1:58 PM
    #7
    Papa_cheese

    Papa_cheese [OP] Active Member

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    I tried to remove the skit plate the but the back bolts are blocked in by the lower plate, which I haven’t been able to get off. Thought removing the sway bar out of the way would be the best option to get that old bracket and to the pillow block bolts
     
  8. Jul 19, 2019 at 2:02 PM
    #8
    MunchTIME

    MunchTIME Well-Known Member

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    It's just a little seized, you can try an punch it out or pry it out if you have room.
     
  9. Jul 20, 2019 at 9:35 AM
    #9
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A トヨタ純正男娼

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    You're talking about the endlinks? Photos show @Papa_cheese has a 6" lift with replacement spindles. On installation, the endlinks are threaded into the spindle using a long allen key. There is no nut. With time and corrosion (I know, I know, a foreign thing in San Diego :p ) the allen socket feature at the end of the stud tends to wither away.
     
  10. Jul 20, 2019 at 10:02 AM
    #10
    IwasDacapsterAz

    IwasDacapsterAz Well-Known Member

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  11. Jul 20, 2019 at 10:17 AM
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    08RC

    08RC Well-Known Member

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    I had a similar issue. I started removing my end link and the stud started spinning after a couple turns. I ended up welding a nut to the end of the stud so I could hold it to tighten it back up. When I removed the sway bar for good I had to saw the nutted end off. Really a poor design for anyone who has to deal with any rust to speak of
     
  12. Jul 20, 2019 at 2:31 PM
    #12
    6AYoteHunter

    6AYoteHunter Well-Known Member

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    If just stuck Kroil oil for 24 hrs works on most and then heat gun and then more oil if really stuck.
     
  13. Jul 20, 2019 at 7:41 PM
    #13
    MunchTIME

    MunchTIME Well-Known Member

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    Ahhhhh, I see, when I pulled my sway at off they were a little tight in there even after removing the nut. Sounds like penetrating oil and heat are the answer.
     
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  14. Jul 20, 2019 at 7:55 PM
    #14
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    This would be my next thought.
     
  15. Jul 20, 2019 at 9:51 PM
    #15
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A トヨタ純正男娼

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    Can't see without pictures so I'll take your word for it. :)

    1. Are you using an allen key (which doesn't give leverage)? Try an allen bit socket with a breaker bar or long ratchet handle. Make sure the bit is seated fully in the endlink stud to avoid rounding it out. Hammer the bit in if you have to.

    2. If the above doesn't work, leave the endlink attached to the spindle and try separating the endlink from the swaybar instead.
     
  16. Jul 20, 2019 at 9:56 PM
    #16
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A トヨタ純正男娼

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    Not OP's problem per se, but yeah a poor design used by many carmakers. Moog sells an improved endlink with wrench flats at the base of the stud. It also has a 20% thicker shaft and greaseable joints:

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M6JW9U/
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M6JWFE/

    [​IMG]
     
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