LED light mod killed my remote start

I tried replacing my map lights and license plate lights with LED lights and that blew a fuse. I checked all my fuses in the engine bay and cabin, I replaced the 7.5A dome fuse because that was the only one not working. The 10A tail fuse is still working.

When I hold the button on my remote start, the truck lights up just like it used to. The dash lights up and I hear a clicking noise now instead of cranking. The noise is coming from under the dash near the fuses. The remote start unit (idatalink) fuses are still good so I’m not sure what the problem is, I can’t imagine I have to reflash the device because of replacing the LEDs. Even with the original fuse blown the remote start did the same thing and maintained power. The remote start was working perfectly before I tried putting the LED in and blew the fuse.


The remote start device is still alive because I can lock, unlock, alarm, and use the remote start button but it’s just not cranking

Anyone have any ideas ?

 

Bump

 

Did you try to reset the brain?

 

Put the original bulbs back in and see if remote start problem goes away

 

Sorry I have no ideas. But I have said on here many times "LED Light replacements are a bag of worms and cause more problems than they are worth".

You aren't the first or last to shoot themselves in the head with an LED "upgrade".

I do wish you well.

 

Yeah I took the LEDs out as soon as they killed my fuse, the originals are installed. I haven’t reset the brain yet but I will do that if I can’t find a solution


The unlock, lock, and alarm still works so the brain is still working

 

Question 6: Does the vehicle remote start?
NO: Verify the remote programming, the RF connections and check the remote start error codes. Repeat the test and call technical support, if the problem persists.

 

I flashed the brain and set it up again but it’s still not cranking, I’m not sure what the issue is but I’ll probably have the system apart again this afternoon or tomorrow

 

Relearn your tachometer. Any time there is an interruption in any of the wiring or power sources, the Idatalink module goofs out. Are you using a blade module?

 

I’m not sure what a blade module is, I’ve got the HC2 hooked up to maestro. I’m going to look up what relearning a tach is, is it hard ?


I looked up tach relearn and I’ve actually been trying that over the last few days. I follow their instructions on turning on the engine for 15 sec at least then foot on brake, click button on brain, wait for green and release but it still does the same thing.

When I use the remote start button all the lights and dash will light up like it’s about to crank but then the dash will start flashing

 

2 way remote? I'm not familiar with your system. What brain is it?

 

Yes that’s correct

 

Sounds like it’s in valet. Cycle the ignition on and off 2x then press the brake pedal 3x

If that doesn’t work start the truck, press and hold the brake and hit the button on the module to relearn the tach programming

 

I tried to exit valet mode several times but it didn’t work, I can’t flash the device again because my USB cables aren’t working. I’ve the got website pulled up on internet explorer but it says it can’t recognize the brain. I’ve tried using three different USB cables so I’m not sure. The cable is the same as a GoPro cable

 

It may be a special ftdi usb to serial adapter and not a regular cable from when I flashed my unit. Also you have to ensure there is no power to the brain when you are attempting to flash. The power is provided via the ftdi usb cable. The tach relearn is done by allowing the engine tog et down to idle rpms and then holding foot on brake and pushing the remote start button once. If it chirps once and the parking lights blink once then it is set. Do you get any errors on your 2 way remote?

 

I just got it fixed and found the problem. I took apart the dash and checked all my connections with the wiring diagram. My connection on my start failed and that’s why it wouldn’t start. It wasn’t noticeable the connection was broken until I used the amp meter on it. It’s strange that the connection broke behind the dash after I replaced the LED