Hit the brakes and hang on.

I have a 2003 Tacoma TRD 4X4 with 3" lift and 265/16 tires. After 350,000 miles the front end had some worn parts. Replaced ball joints, rack bushings and tie rods. Before the work when you hit brakes it would pull some but not uncontrollable. It was a northern truck so I assumed calipers were hanging up. Replaced loose steering parts, rebuilt calipers, did a driveway alignment. When I first got the truck 5 years ago it pulled to the left. The lower control arm adjusters were rusted solid. Cut the bolts off replaced lower control arm bushings and bolts. Didn't have enough adjustment to stop the pull, but didn't wear the tires so I lived with it. After doing this work I wanted the pull stopped.

Using the main support beam of my shop and my above ground lift as anchor points I was able to take my Port a Power and straighten the frame to get the adjustment I needed. I set the camber at +.25 and caster roughly +1.50 on right, +1.70 on the left. After centering steering wheel I used 2 8' light tubes held on front wheels with bungie cords and set the toe to +1/16". Took it for a drive and when you hit the brakes it first goes left, then heads for the ditch. There is no traction control or ABS light is on. Will zero point calibration solve this issue?

 

so wait, you bent your frame to try and get it aligned?

 

This one is gonna be good

 

Yes, sometimes when a vehicle is involved in an accident there will be frame damage. Ask a bodyman. It's really not that unusual. Body shops are in the business to make money. The insurance companies focus is not to give it to them. The end result is most body shops will do just enough to hang the sheet metal. Correcting frame damage does not require a big $100,000.00 rack with multiple pulling post. All you need is a anchor point to pull against, measuring tape, and a plumb bob, (to mark your points of measure). Wait, let me backup. If you are a tech that requires your alignment machine to have red, yellow, and green bar scales, then you probably need the big expensive equipment that does everything but step on the pedal to the hydraulic pump.

I'm not trying to get off on the wrong foot with this being my first post. I was just telling you what I've done to correct the problems caused by high mileage and previous poor collision repair. I don't want to sound like some cocky smartass know it all. I've been working on cars, trucks, and restoring old motorcycles, and wood boats for over 35 years and I'm still learning. When someone knows something that I don't, then I listen. If asked I will share what I know. That's what these forums are all about. If you want to talk down to me and come at me like I'm some shade tree idiot then allow me to share my credentials. I am ASE Master certified in 3 areas. Automotive and light truck, Heavy truck, and Paint refinish and collision repair. I received my 25 year medallion 2 years ago. I work in the Heavy Truck department for a fleet company that handles 1.2 million vehicles in 3 countries. While I haven't turned wrenches for my paycheck in 10 years my job requires that I stay up to date.

My question is about a system I'm not familiar with. Got a problem with your late model Diesel emission system? Do you work for the railroad and your truck is stuck on the tracks cause the rear Hyrail won't come up? Are you working on a early british car and the Lucas electrics has you pulling your hair out? Maybe your worried about your Shovelhead only have 2 psi of oil pressure at idle. That I can help you with. Those are my strong points.

 

Okay, ignoring the bending your frame stuff.

you say toe is +1/16, you should have neg toe. Ie front of tires closer than rear. If your positive toe and you have any sort of play in the tie rods, steering etc when you hit the breaks the right wheel is trying to turn further right, this will get worse if you load the truck heavy on that side.

Next lets say you have a left brake caliber that is say just a few percent stickier ( the piston ) than the right. So now the left piston is not withdrawing so it starts off already contacting the rotor. but as you hit the brake harder, it brakes less. Bamm more right turn, in to the ditch.

So I dont care if you invented the alignment machine. Go pay someone with a machine, not a light bulb to do it right and to the right specs.

I bet you have a caliber that is slightly sticky, a suspension part too tight, worn parts ( or loose ) or probably all of the stuff I just said.

good luck

 

OP, you can understand my confusion that you appeared to be trying to align the vehicle by bending the frame... You only mentioned worn suspension parts and rusty cam adjusters, nothing about a prior collision...

 

I knew a dude years ago that straightened his frame by chaining it to a pole and doing as you described

 

Caliper aside, you have positive (toe-in) and negative (toe-out) toe reversed.

 

spell check..... and
<---- stupid

 

lol - happens to all of us.