TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

More!!

 

I can already see internals coming. The dyno shop operator is now tuning ecoboost f150’s because he owns one and its phucking amazing how much hp he’s picked up. I want to dominate f150’s. More boost will be required.

 

I did too. For a boss exhaust my cabin is pretty quiet. Just take note how heavy the doors get. I may remove some and use foam for less of a heavy door.

 

That all depends on tune and weather.

 

You running cam gears?

 

Hey guys. I put on my 2.5” pulley today. Works a treat. I can feel the difference in take off. Definitely more punch in it now.
Could someone tell me approximately at what RPM does there boost cut out?
I didn’t take much notice as I just went for a quick spin, but is there a way to make the boost last higher up in the RPM?

 

Soo true!!

 

You sound like you're experiencing belt slip. You'll need the pulley wrap mod, to get more belt contact, as well as less slip. Maybe even a shorter belt. Unless you already did that?

That mod may be on the first page? If not, I am sure someone knows where some pictures are of it.

 

Almost sounds like turbo time......

 

No

 

I don't find my doors to be that much heavier that it's a bother. They do close with more of a dull thud now. Did you just do doors or floor too? I was really surprised by how much noise was reduced just doing doors.

 

Man I really want to do the doors, floor, roof, back wall. But my truck is already so damn heavy. I’m just barely under 5,000 Lbs. I need to do some weight reduction, I think the heaviest f150 raptor is around 5500 lbs (aluminum ecoboost) which is crazy light.

 

It's hard to have it all. You could get a new fiberglass hood and fenders. The ones I've seen haven't impressed me, though. Look good from a distance, but upon closer inspection they look really flimsy.

 

I was going to do fiberglass fenders/bedsides. I really wanted to, but I didn’t want to deal with fiberglass in the long run. They were way more sturdy than my trimmed fenders. But I am big into detailing, and dealing with cracking fiberglass sucking up paint isn’t something I wanna do. I saw a pic of the fenders/bedsides I sold installed and painted and I wanted to cry though. That guys truck looks beautiful now. I should have just installed them, oh well.

 

I did 5sqft in front doors, 4 in rears, entire back wall. At some point this summer I'll remove the rear seats and do the floor. That will be the end of the 36 sqft box.

 

Not a whole lot I can do to drop weight off my car either. Most the stuff I can do is just those paper liners in the trunk, spare tire, stock amplifier, disc changer. The spare tire...thought about it, but what if I run over a whole box of nails? All the other stuff is probably lighter than the box of dynamat I’m adding.

I picked up a badgeless fiberglass grille that weighs less than my stock grille. Will probably look like shit after I paint it.

 

Question for those with URD longtubes. Previous owner removed these header to transmission support brackets so I installed my longtubes without them. Now that I have them will they even fit and is it worth it to loosen everything up and try to install them?

Are they necessary?

 

If they can go back on, put them on. I believe @Torspd said it takes stress off the header studs.

 

I used to just have someone that could bring me a spare. Carry a can of fix-a-flat for light duty repair. Or get AAA.

 

I have everything. AAA, fix a flat, tool set,

$322 Viair 450p /45043 Automatic Portable Compressor, Tire Inflator Kit, Air Compressor for Truck, Jeep, SUV, and Car Tires, Portable Air Pump Kit, Car Accessories, 100% Duty Cycle, 150 PSI/1.80 CFM, Silver

Viair 450p, small HF floor jack, and even a ramp (car is too low to get any kind of jack under it)