Help me tap into a fuse in my cabin

My sunroof fuse was hot after i turned off the ignition. Is this on a delay or is it a constant on?

 

Constant on as far as I can tell since my dash cam always has power. I've never checked to see how hot the fuse was once I connected it though.

 

I meant hot as in "has power" Fuse was normal temp from what i could tell lol

 

LOL - In that case, yes it's always hot.

 

I have read all the post and not sure what fuse connection was used for dash cam. Did you use "S/ROOF" 7.5 A ???
Not sure if I should use a add-a-fuse or plug my Rexing hardwire directly in?

 

S/Roof is 20A You have the numbers mixed up. Dash cam you want constant hot and the S/Roof would work. Your add a fuse is the wrong size.

This is the right fuse tap

$8 Auto Car Add a Circuit/Add a Fuse Mini Low Profile ATM TAP Fuse Holder Automotive

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EO571Z4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

How does the acc function work? I've got a Blue Sea box but all circuits are hot... Having a couple of acc would be very helpful.

 

It would be all ACC or All On. Unless you have 2 separate power source blocks in one blue sea box. you would need to get another Blue Sea box and have it wired to ACC

 

that's what I figured. Did you pick up the acc from the underhood fuse selection?

 

It is designed to be 1/2 always on, and 1/2 are switched.

$45 Blue Sea Systems 5032 ST Blade Fuse Block Dual 12 with Ground and Cover

Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block ST Blade with Ground Cover

You need to hook up 2 power sources to it, and a switch line off something that the ignition controls.
I wanted my GPS, seat heaters to not be able to be left on. Bed lights I want anytime.

 

Thanks. Makes sense. My Fuse block is just one source which is direct from the battery. When to time comes that I need to wire up an acc circuit, maybe I'll look at replacing it with that split one. Looks like it would be a direct replacement as far as mounting holes etc.

 

I picked an ACC 20 amp circuit from inside the cabin. (near obd2 port). i really only wanted my radar detector to be ACC power.

 

Thanks for the info. Does it matter if I don't have a sunroof, can I still use the fuse 20A?
I was able to get constant power from the bottom left open fuse. I have no idea why fuse port is empty/open.

 

Beautiful job, these boxes have acc. And hot slots, I may consider this. Do you have any more pictures of your build?
For the split box I know where the constant on would go but where did you get the acc side to work. Where do you go with that wire? Do double tap the positive on the battery or do you need a second battery?

 

Here is a pic of it with the wires set up and a few of the circuits in use.

(One day I will replace the bolts I bought that rusted)

The 2 units bolted to the metal support(I made that as well) are the fuse block and a 4 position bus bar.
1 spot on the bar is attached to the battery +, as I didn't want to stack a bunch of wires on the battery.
1 spot goes to the always hot connection on the fuse block.
1 spot is for the switched circuit. That wire goes to a relay. Then the wire continues onto the proper connection on the fuse block.
The last connection is for my large spot lights on the truck. The wires in the harness were pretty big and the end didn't fit in the fuse block very well. (Down wire it has a fuse and relay)

The relay that controls the switched circuits has a wire attached to a switched circuit in the trucks oem fuse box using a add-a-cicuit.

I did not want any more wires hooked up to the Tacoma's electronics then necessary, so just the 2.

Not as fancy as some of the setups I have seen on here, but this fit my needs, budget, and it feels good to design and build something yourself.