TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Ok so I tried to take off the vacuum hose from the diaphragm tobthe back of the sc. bloody hard to get off so still haven’t got it yet. But I did check to see that it’s working which it is.
A question please: when I change the fuel pump, do I also have to change the fuel regulator at the back of the engine to an adjustable one to allow more fuel in?

 

Just the pump will do.

 

No worries. Thanks

 

Is there a reason why the fuel regulator doesn’t need changing? I’m assuming your implying that the stock one will still let in enough fuel?

 

255LPM pump with adjustable fuel regulator.

 

The OEM one will do well enough. Until you are needing to have a boost referenced one, with a larger diaphragm.

Judging by that picture, I'd look for a better quality regulator, such as GFB, as well as make sure you get a brand name pump. Walbro etc...

 

Be careful removing the vacuum hose from the diaphragm nipple it’s nylon/plastic and will crack/break off cost me $125 and a weeks time waiting and having to pull the SC to replace the unit

 

Ah ok. I’ll hunt around for a better quality pump. Thanks

 

Yeah that’s what I was afraid of, breaking something. My biggest fear just to remove the brass insert.

 

I've been following your posts, so forgive my question if you've covered it before. How did you tune the computer for the super charger? Are you running upgraded injectors from Stock?

The fuel pump is a good thing for you, it will supply more fuel flow to the engine if for some reason you were topped out on the stock unit. However, I would expect that you would see a lean code for this condition if this was the issue. I know when the screen on my fuel pump got covered in debris (in the fuel tank) when I saw a fuel cut out, I did get a code. Belt slippage could certainly explain your issues, if you're running a stock belt length with the smaller pulley. As mentioned before as well, I would think you could have a vacuum (errr Boost leak) in one of the hoses. I also had at one point a small leak in the rubber fitting for my boost gauge. I thought my numbers were slightly off, and I didn't see much of an issue while operating under vacuum. But once the boost would come on, I could hear a little faint whistle and a friend was able to look at it while I held some rpm on it. It was easy for him to find the slip connector. I would certainly check your hoses and rubber lines. The lines at the back of the system that can see boost, I would slap on a couple of small hose clamps.

-D

 

Thanks for your question...
The ecu is the standard ecu that came out with the engine which was already tuned for the sc.
I was told by the Toyota mechanic that the injectors that I have are upgraded ones. So I’ll take his word on it.
As far as the ecu throwing a code goes, because the second hand engine I bought came out of an automatic Ute there is a permanent code on the dash because the ecu can’t find the auto transmission ( I have a manual in mine)
I have spoken to the guy who will do my dyno and he said he can remove that code when reprogramming the ecu.

I’ll have to try what your saying about vacuum lines and have a good look and listen for leaks. The diaphragm does seem to work well when I remove and reinstall the line but that’s just at idle. So I’ll get someone to put the foot down for me and see what happens.
I’m just really hoping that once I change the fuel pump, that dyno guy can sort out the rest. I have spoken to him about all the issues I’m having and he also said change the pump and he will sort the rest.
I will make sure I also change the belt for peace of mind as I’ve gone from a 3” to a 2.5”. Well it’s technically a 2.48” to be exact.

 

For the record, swapping an engine from an automatic into a manual will not throw a check engine light for not seeing the automatic transmission. Only swapping an automatic ecu into a manual truck will do that.

This means that the ECU, of the vehicle that donated the engine, was also installed in your truck.

Are there any other check engine lights besides that?

Do you have a wideband gauge?

 

Yes your right. The engine and ecu come out of an automatic transmission Ute and has gone into a manual. We know the check engine light is on due to this reason because we plugged the diagnostic computer in and it told us there was no automatic transmission. That’s an easy fix.
No other engine lights are on.
No I don’t have a wideband gauge. What is it used for?

 

Feels like we need a group outing to Australia and New Zealand.

 

To monitor air fuel ratios to have data on your engines well being.

 

Haha! I have 126 acres of hilly and bush terrain so bring your cars and camping equipment!

 

Ah ok. Maybe something for me to look at

 

Kind of a must have. Unless you have a motor built in case of a mishap. Data is a good thing.

 

I’m assuming it plugs into the ecu somehow and maybe even vacuum lines? I should be able to order that for any auto parts shop? I’ll make some enquires

 

It's a stand alone gauge. Needs power, ground and an exhaust bug like your o2 sensor. Gives feedback on your air/fuel mix which is very important. I have AEM x-series gauges. They work great. Some fellas have different brands that work well too.