HP Tuners for 2005-2015

you can not flash a TRD tune to your truck with HPTuner. BUT if you get the dealer to flash a TRD Cal to your truck you are free to tune with HPTuner.




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Can someone confirm / explain to me the term "hysteresis"

From what I have figured out it would be the following?
Say for example I have a value of 35* for high tps and a 5* hysteresis value associated with that high tps. Does that mean if i rolled onto the throttle, fro 0 to 35* and held steady at 35* that whatever i was triggering (cough ACIS) at 35* would occur, and stay triggered till tps dropped to 30*?

 

From previous tuning on be ecus, I think Bosch considered hysteresis the acceptable gap between actual and requested (at least when it came to boost) which fed into the PID parameters for the variable vane turbo charger position control.

Applied to the ACIS example, I would agree with your understanding/ interpretation of it.

 

An example would be with the gas pedal: if you were to plot voltage output to pedal position, you'd get a line (curve really). The curve from 0 to fully pressed may be different than fully pressed to 0. Likewise, the output to pedal position when it's 100F vs 0F ambient temperature. That gap at any particular position is considered it's hysteresis. By definition, it should be repeatable or it would be termed variation. You really want as close to 0 hysteresis as possible.

 

Yes that is generally how hysteresis works at least in referencing switches in my line of work

 

These two answers to the same question helped me when I was wondering too.

 

OK cool deal I thought i interpreted it right but then part of me thought it might be a +- value from desired value. But that wouldnt make sense now looking at it.

 

Got mine, already sorted out a couple of things runs much better already...
I have been waiting so long for this....
I'll be tuning all week...

 

The man doesn't waste time.

 

YASSSSS. Its hard not to do a bunch of things all at once. Thats what i was having issues with at first. But as time goes by things cool off and you can collect data you need for finer adjustment!

 

There is a bunch of stuff I'm not touching until I have my base tune sorted out...
It's hard to wait, but once I have a good base I can work on the rest...

 

I have been waiting for years for tuning software. Emailed that Other guy a hundred times and nothing... Been messing with the unichip for a few years....

So I just pulled the trigger, It's not perfect but a good start and gives us most of the basic maps to make it run much better.
Just being able to rescale the MAF and fix the cam timing is huge... Doesn't have that Toyota mush pedal anymore...

 

I actually bought the other guys setup. I think I'm into him for $700. I finally gave up and bought this setup. It works. Easy setup. Good support, etc... Live and learn.

Had to re-scale the maf as well. Was pretty easy once I figured out how to make percentage changes to an entire map.

 

You're in good company!

 

Did you resize the intake tube or just rescale the maf?

 

good boy!

 

I rescale the MAF... The hard part is I can't find the MAF volts to log, so I'm logging the out put, but seams to work the same so far... Think I'm 99% there already..
Surprisingly, from 1200 up it was lean and fairly linear, so not hard to correct...

 

My TRD intake was reading too low basically. Fuel trims were off enough to be alarming. But not enough to throw an MIL. The point of measurement in the TRD tube was "too large". The intent of this I believe was to lean an NA truck out a bit on the top and therefore make a bit more power up there. I tried another one and got the same results. I then went back to the stock intake and did some logs. This gave me some sense of what "normal" readings should look like.

I don't have the exact amount that I modded the numbers as I did it incrementally. But, it's something like 12.5%.

 

Ill have to go back through my logs but im pretty sure at all airloads im seeing LTFT's up around 5-6% regardless of elevation temps etc (this is on a stock intake with OEM air filter and an intake manifold spacer between upper and lower intake). Ill check tonight.

So basically you guys are altering the MAF table to more accurately work for your intake so you see LTFT's come down closer to 0?

 

I looked at the stock intake numbers in scanner and then rescaled to get the trd intake to act similarly. Making everything zero out would work ok around where you did the tuning. But drive down to the coast, or up at altitude and you’d be off.

I initially made a 15% change across the board. Logs showed that was too much. So, I backed them up to a 10% change from stock and that was too little. Then went 12.5% and it started looking pretty good. Once in the ballpark I made a couple more very minor adjustments until I was happy with it. Took a few days of driving around to iron out.

 

My trims look like that too. 5-6 ish.