OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

Yep. 2.25 front. 1.5 rear.

 

Surprised you haven’t had any issues with the stock needle bearing. I guess every truck is different tho.

 

Upgraded needle bearing from TSB.

 

I don’t see anywhere in the pdf where they replace the old needle bearing with an “upgraded” version. Glad you had good luck with the TSB tho.

 

How much cheaper was alternate shipping? Low Range Off-Road carries this bushing and ships for $11.30 USPS Priority.

 

There was actually a thread on this here which compared the new versus the old and ECGS as well.

 

^ this

 

Looks like the consensus is that the ECGS bushing is really the way to go. Not trying to be a pessimist.

 

Yep. I guess if they want free, they can try getting Toyota to get it done. I myself will be doing ECGS. I only want to do it once.

 

Thought I’d post an update. I do see that this ECGS bushing is the go to here. But I spoke with Toyota parts today and there is in fact a technical Bulletin for the roller bearing and it has been updated to be way stronger. I ordered it and will update once I have it and figure out a way to pull the old one out without that ECGS puller. Hopefully some tool will work from my shop.

 

I believe it was $8.00 dollars for the shipping

 

Maybe, maybe not. You now have a choice between the "Type A" and "Type B" bearing. The first so-called upgrade appeared in 2014 and it too was a POS. So I'm not holding my breath here. Besides, which one did you choose A or B? And there is absolutely no info available as to the difference if any.

 

Much better then. I thought I read someone said $20

 

Needle bearing out, ECGS bushing in. The CV doesn’t need to come out of the hub. Plenty of room to get this done. Also CV wasn’t difficult to pop out as it had a red mark and when lined up at the 6 o’clock position and a little leverage from a pry bar, came right out. Also used the old seal to press the new seal in.

 

I replaced the front differential LH output bearing with the "new" Toyota roller bearing last nite. I see no difference between the old and new bearings- same width bearing and same number of rollers (34?). The bearing I removed had visible wear on the rollers and was obviously much looser than the new one when installed on the axle - checking out of curiosity prior to installing the bearing in the case. I'm sure this output bearing will need to be replaced in 100K miles but the wheel bearings will probably also be due again then if I still have it and I'll do it at the same time. I know everyone here loves the EC bushing, but I'm not paying $60 + shipping for a stupid bushing when the Toyota part is $13. Plus, has anyone ran it for 100K miles? It does seem like this is a great application for a bushing, but it also doesn't have the long term record.

I did not have the axle vibration issue, but at the differential there was a lot more play in the LH axle than the RH and since I was doing wheel bearings, I went ahead and installed a new bearing

When you pull the old bearing, make sure you're pulling on the bearing and not the step inside the case that's just behind the bearing. I put the puller jaws in a little too deep the first time and it didn't budge so I tried again and it came right out.

 

a few more pics. Note the correct seal PN. I used a 2-1/4 axle nut socket to install
it. I happened to have the perfect size bushing driver to install the bearing and finished it off with the 40 mm driver shown above. The depth spec is 1.4-1.7 mm below the surface and install the bearing with the writing on the end facing out.

 

Similar here, not wanting to pay for the ecgs tool I bought the 35mm collet from Rocky Mountain atv and made my own driver from sockets. Worked flawlessly.






FYI the seal that ECGS supplies is OEM.

 

Question: Is it necessary to remove the axle nut to pull the CV when installing the ECGS bushing on a 2nd gen? I just noticed the torque spec for the axle nut is 173 ft. lbs.! I don't have a torque wrench big enough to re-tighten that monster.

If not, what is the procedure for removing the CV from the diff?

Thanks in advance.

 

Not necessary. Unbolt the LCA from spindle(2 bolts, 19mm). Then pop the CV from axle and use the loose spindle to guide the CV out of the way.

 

Ohh ok gotcha. Now hopefully i don't have issues separating the CV from the diff. I've seen some people use a steel cable and a hammer to yank it out. I'm assuming you would need to separate the outer CV from the hub in order to do that method, right??