Anyone had a similar problem?

Do you mean it blows when you turn the key on? That fuse should not be hot with the key off. If it blows with the key off, you have some really strange things going on.

I would seriously doubt your alternator is the problem. As others mentioned, inspect the wiring for your nonfunctioning remote start.

 

When the key turns, everything works for about 2 seconds then it pops again. The remote start is wired in a way that when I disconnect it, the truck does not start and I do not have the means or the knowledge to tear into that type of thing hahaha

 

It's gonna be pretty much impossible for anyone here to point you in the right direction. The best I can tell you is visibly look at all the aftermarket wiring in your truck and see if you can find a wire that the insulation is rubbed through and allowing the wire to short to ground. Beyond that, someone with electrical circuit knowledge is going to have to look at it.

 

Is there a fuse in the wiring for the remote start?
if SO, remove the fuse and try to start the truck.

 

Fail

 

If you get under the dash and look up at that remote start stuff, it should be fairly easy to tell the factory wiring from the stuff that was added on later. You'll see how they tapped into that bundle of wiring for the ignition switch, probably with butt connectors. Look at the wire colors that are in the bundle of ignition switch wiring, a lot of those wires that feed a bunch of circuits are going to be bigger and thicker than normal. It really isn't that hard to remove aftermarket stuff and figure out the factory wires that need to get put back together

Most of those aftermarket modules our zip tied up under the dash. Once you start cutting zip ties and letting the aftermarket stuff hang down you'll be able to see the difference

 

Tore into this weekend. Had a weird noise under the hood before this whole debacle that we figured to be an idler pulley and the alternator was not charging so I swapped all 3 idlers and the alternator. Didnt fix either problem but I did find out that the fuse only blows if I have the ac on. This on top of the fact that smoke was rolling out of the clutch on the ac compressor leads me to believe that might be the cause of at least 1 of my problems

 

Now we're getting somewhere. I looked at the schematic for the AC, and stupidly enough, IG1NO2, also provides all the power to the MG CLT relay, which supplies power to the AC clutch. If the clutch coil is smoked and has shorted windings, that would definitely pop the IG1NO2 fuse. Remove the MG CLT relay and see if all your problems go away. Of coarse the AC won't work.

https://www.customtacos.com/tech.ol...toyewd/06toypdf/ewd/2006/tacoma/h/em01d46.pdf

 

Definitely sounds like the AC clutch/pulley assembly. This turned out to be the problem on mine. Started with a screeching noise, replaced with new clutch kit and the screeching stopped. Few days later my fuse blew (same as above). Starting looking near the AC compressor for anything faulty since this was the area of my recent work. Low and behold the ground cable came undone. I had all the symptoms as well (APS, windows no worky, etc..) Good luck!

 

Deleted dog pic .Wrong thread lol. Was wondering were it went

 

Voltage overdraw as a result of the magnetic clutch on the AC compressor failing. You will likely find scorching on the back of your AC control panel too.

When the trouble first occurred, had you spiked RPMs? (downshifting, accelerating to pass, etc)

You'll also want to closely inspect all electrical connections near the AC compressor to make sure they are all in good condition.

Had this same problem plague me for years. After many frustrating hours spent trying to trouble shoot the millions of items tied into the fuse, I narrowed it down to the AC. Mine would always blow when I was towing and I would manual downshift to spike RPMs for additional climbing power. Sometimes it would dead short the circuit for a while and blow the new fuses immediately and others with was intermittent. Especially if I idled for long periods of time with the AC on and then went to accelerate. I haven't replaced my clutch yet as the AC works fine still, but I now just reach down and turn off the AC button prior to downshifting. Last time I pulled my trailer doing that, I only blew the fuse once, and it was because I downshifted accidentally.

I just roll around with a 25 pk of replacement fuses in my glove box now.

 

When you replace fuse, alternator still not charging ?

 

If you are keen to give the replacement a go on your own.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Complet...16-Ship-Priority/192673096809?epid=1361631574

 

Is it too late to return the alternator?

 

Still running fine with the ac off. Plan on getting the ac replaced one of these weekends along with a couple other things. Let you know how is goes

 

Probabaly! Hahaha. I'm not against putting on newer parts if they dont fix the problem. That much longer before I'll have to replace it again

 

Not all the way. It was reading under 14 amps

 

Yota charge low

 

My is reading at 12.8-13.2 and the truck is still running fine.

 

Amps or volts?